Hi Keef.
It certainly seems a superb kit. I love the carvings.
Good luck and happy building. W'll be watching.
Herman
It certainly seems a superb kit. I love the carvings.
Good luck and happy building. W'll be watching.
Herman
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Great Herman. Thanks and will good to have you along
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The next stage is the essembly of the ribs. There are 63 which make up the hull and each rib consists of 15 segments. Each individual rib has it's own 1:1 scale drawing to work against and extreme care is needed when positioning and gluing the segments as the slightest deviation from the drawing will get magnified as you progress. The drawing is marked A and B. A indicates the segments that face the bow direction and B are facing the stern. I started from the middle at no. 31, as these appear to be the easiest because A and B sit directly on top of each other as they run at 90 degrees to the keel. As you progress towards the bow and the stern, the two get progressively more offset which, when sanded will give a 'twist' to the ribs to follow the curve of the hull. (Does that make sense?) The vast majority of the parts for this kit are laser cut from sheets of differing thicknesses. The ribs are 5mm, 4mm and 3mm, so there is an awful lot of cleaning to do, to clear the laser char from the edges of each piece. I have only done a rough sanding of the ribs so far. 2 down, 61 to go! At the moment the ribs are only placed in the jig and are not yet cemented. See you next time.
It will be interesting to watch your progression. Great ship model! Magic Mike
a Very good start in the highly interesting world of POF-kits
Just a small hint for making the frames
I can see, that you are not using distancers under the frame parts - if not included try to find some small wooden sheets of 1 or 2mm - exactly the difference of the difference in width - take a look at my Granado frame and it will be clear what I want to say
yours:
Granado
Just a small hint for making the frames
I can see, that you are not using distancers under the frame parts - if not included try to find some small wooden sheets of 1 or 2mm - exactly the difference of the difference in width - take a look at my Granado frame and it will be clear what I want to say
yours:
Granado
Hi @Uwek,
I may build this kit in the future. Can you explain why the frame should be glued up the way you have described? Why can't it just be done on the flat side as Keef is doing? Thanks for helping me understand this. I'm assuming it has to do with the orientation of the drawing but...
you do not have a flat side - both sides of the frames have these steps
BTW: The frames of the Granado section were different - here I made glued half of the double frames along the center line of the frame and glued afterwards the two half together
HMS GRANADO (1742) - midship section - POF by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
Some days ago I started working on a new project - HMS GRANADO - bomb vessel midship section - POF by @CAFmodel in 1:48 I made already a detailed kit review, where you can find more detailed Information abou the content and also the specialities of this kit, like the correct framing, the...
shipsofscale.com
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A very good idea Uwek. Thanks for the tip. I have plenty of spare 1 and 2 mm knocking around, so they will come in handy to
use as spacers
Beautifully clean work Keef. Sorry to ask about the mundane - but how are you cleaning up the char? Sandpaper? Files? Spindle sander? Have you left the char at the joints where pieces connect or cleaned everything prior to glue up? Thanks for indulging my 'beginner-level' questions.
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looking forward to seeing it progress, hope you have fun with it
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Thank you for your comments. It's no trouble at all I am new to POF modelling myself. This is my first POF kit. I am using a mini Proxon spindle sander (very carefully) to clean the laser char and contour the ribs nearer the bow and stern when I eventually get that far. I give the connecting parts only a very light sanding. I am sanding the entire rib after gluing together all the segments
Thank you for kindly answering my question. Much appreciated.
Sorry that I jump once more in the talk....
Refering the question by Paul related to the connecting joints between the parts and
your answer
If you do not have until now, buy a disk-sander
using such a sander you can get vertical surface and completely free of char joints
with some light sanding only, on both connected front ends of the parts are maybe still some rest of char and in this way the butt joints between the parts will be stronger visible
and similar frames with prepared joints like described above
Off course it is a question of taste, if such joints are more accent or less - just a hint
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The laser trace should be polished off at the joint, otherwise the strength of the frame will be affected。
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Thank you for the advice. I am now sanding all joints and learning as I go along
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A few more ribs finished and gradually moving forward. Now after being put right, I am cleaning all the laser char from the joint areas of each segment although too late for the few that l made earlier, which l'm afraid will stand out from all future ribs but hopefully not too much after the deck timbers are in place. A painful lesson learned. l will not keep going over the making of the ribs as they are all more or less the same at this stage, so for now will post as and when more ribs are added
Very nice work indeed. I wouldn't worry a single moment about the difference in the frames. This will never be seen.
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Thank you for your comments Paul. I'm sure you're right about the frames