Hi All,
I'm starting a build log for my Mantua Sergal HMS President kit. While this kit does not seem to be a model of a particular vessel, according to my very brief research, she represents an English "Sloop of War" from the mid 18C typically used for anti-smuggling and anti-privateer activities.
This is my first wooden ship kit (unless you count a couple of basic R/C hard chine models I managed to cobble together when I was young). It's my first scale wooden ship anyway and that's for certain.
I read another build log on here and I certainly have some questions to come later on, but here are my first impressions and progress so far.
The main reason I was advised to go with this kit (by the Mantua UK guys!) was because of the full colour instruction manual, which does indeed set things out clearly. Of course as with any instruction manual, it doesn't go into technique much, and that's one of the reasons I'm here!
The removal of the bulkheads, keel and false deck (?) with fitting took about an hour. This was because the false deck (horizontal bit) was too tight and all the slots had to be filed a lot to fit it together, but apart from that it was fine. The plan was different to the laser-cut wood. I confused parts 7 and 8 because they had been swapped and 7A had moved, but it was easy to see how they should fit when assembled and I could check the parts against the plan to check which number they should be after removing from the "sprue" (is it called a sprue? I'm used to plastic kits recently!)
After reading the other build log, I did check the mast hole positions on the deck (a future step) and they seemed to be central.
I'm up to step 6 in the instructions below.
It states which bulkheads to taper, which I've done, and testing the others with a plank they probably aren't worth tapering, but the area under the stern looks like it will have very complex twists, so I'll give that some thought.
Tapering the 1st and 2nd bulkheads, the underside of the transom (? rear-most piece) and the small formers at the bow took about an hour as well. This was taking off the bulk with a dremel and sanding the rest of it. More shaping may be needed but I wanted to get most of it done first and test the shape with a plank.
No glue has been added yet, in case anyone has some sage advice and to give me some time to think.
It isn't easy to taper concave curves without losing the shape of the piece, so I took my time and was careful. I've deliberately left some of the laser-cut black marks in some places as a reference. It can be shaped further if needed.
Now these 2 small formers on the bow (part 13, forward of bulkhead 1) are shown on the plan with their tops flush with bulkhead 1. However after tapering bulkhead 1, this doesn't make sense as they would protrude below it. So to preserve the shape, I will raise them, maintain the same laser-cut curve and cut the tops off flush (roughly as per these 2 photos)
Time taken, 2 hours. Maybe another hour writing this... Future entries may be more abbreviated!
Back to work tomorrow, so will see if I can get anything done in the evenings. I also have a motorcycle with an annoying fault to fix, plus plenty of house decorating to do so I have to grab the odd hour when I can on this.
All the best!
I'm starting a build log for my Mantua Sergal HMS President kit. While this kit does not seem to be a model of a particular vessel, according to my very brief research, she represents an English "Sloop of War" from the mid 18C typically used for anti-smuggling and anti-privateer activities.
This is my first wooden ship kit (unless you count a couple of basic R/C hard chine models I managed to cobble together when I was young). It's my first scale wooden ship anyway and that's for certain.
I read another build log on here and I certainly have some questions to come later on, but here are my first impressions and progress so far.
The main reason I was advised to go with this kit (by the Mantua UK guys!) was because of the full colour instruction manual, which does indeed set things out clearly. Of course as with any instruction manual, it doesn't go into technique much, and that's one of the reasons I'm here!
The removal of the bulkheads, keel and false deck (?) with fitting took about an hour. This was because the false deck (horizontal bit) was too tight and all the slots had to be filed a lot to fit it together, but apart from that it was fine. The plan was different to the laser-cut wood. I confused parts 7 and 8 because they had been swapped and 7A had moved, but it was easy to see how they should fit when assembled and I could check the parts against the plan to check which number they should be after removing from the "sprue" (is it called a sprue? I'm used to plastic kits recently!)
After reading the other build log, I did check the mast hole positions on the deck (a future step) and they seemed to be central.
I'm up to step 6 in the instructions below.
It states which bulkheads to taper, which I've done, and testing the others with a plank they probably aren't worth tapering, but the area under the stern looks like it will have very complex twists, so I'll give that some thought.
Tapering the 1st and 2nd bulkheads, the underside of the transom (? rear-most piece) and the small formers at the bow took about an hour as well. This was taking off the bulk with a dremel and sanding the rest of it. More shaping may be needed but I wanted to get most of it done first and test the shape with a plank.
No glue has been added yet, in case anyone has some sage advice and to give me some time to think.
It isn't easy to taper concave curves without losing the shape of the piece, so I took my time and was careful. I've deliberately left some of the laser-cut black marks in some places as a reference. It can be shaped further if needed.
Now these 2 small formers on the bow (part 13, forward of bulkhead 1) are shown on the plan with their tops flush with bulkhead 1. However after tapering bulkhead 1, this doesn't make sense as they would protrude below it. So to preserve the shape, I will raise them, maintain the same laser-cut curve and cut the tops off flush (roughly as per these 2 photos)
Time taken, 2 hours. Maybe another hour writing this... Future entries may be more abbreviated!
Back to work tomorrow, so will see if I can get anything done in the evenings. I also have a motorcycle with an annoying fault to fix, plus plenty of house decorating to do so I have to grab the odd hour when I can on this.
All the best!