HMS Victory build - Mantua/Panart 738 by Daliab - [COMPLETED BUILD]

I know for furled sails, only about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of full sail is needed to model curled sails.
Yes this has been a rule of thumb for years... but it is the "thickness" of the material that is more troubling. If the sail material is of a "scale thickness" there would be no need to cut them shorter for furling.... make sense?
 
You are doing very well by this model. However, as I am building just the bow section (same company probably similar plans) , I am deeply disappointed by the lack of accuracy.For example, I divided the figurehead into 7 pieces and reshaped and reassembled it. The beak/stem is weird. Was this designed from memory, without the aid of photos or let alone visiting the ship itself? Were there copyright issues? Again this is a build to be proud of, but research is fun. Even looking at the internet will produce much food for thought and kit bashing/improvements. Sorry to vent my frustrations.
The more I get into building this Victory by Mantua, the more I find issue with the lack of direction in the directions. Example: the figurehead is 85% like the original on the Vic but not exact. Cutting a notch out of the top of the bow section for placement of the figurehead wasn't even discussed or shown in the instructions. There were many more to mention but will stop at those two.
Two things have helped me a bunch with this build. One is asking questions on this site and the other is looking at other folks build logs and surfing the internet.
Good luck on your build.
 
It is all about "scale". Most sail materials used in kits and such are much too thick for a proper scale appearance. They would be more like a winter blanket than a sail. For the most realistic sails we need to find the thinnest material possible as discussed above. My hat is off to modelers that rise to the challenge of building a model with sails!!!
...your hat is off to those that rise to the challenge of building a model with sails.... I was just stupid enough to say what the heck, let's put sails on her!
 
Quite common with classic European kits.... especially an "advanced" level kit such as Victory.
I was also told on this site that the Mantua's version of the Victory is a very old kit. They would have recommended caldercraft's version was more accurate but not totally. Manufacture: why update a kit that keeps on selling without modifying the kit which cost money. Customer: we would like accuracy and willing to pay for it.
 
On my very first model, I put sails on it that were fully deployed. This time, I decided to put sails on the Vic but have them furled. This is my first attempt to add them to a ship furled. I didn't want to hide all of the rigging. I tried this a couple of times and didn't like the sails so tight against the yards and ended up with is pictured below. I wanted the sails to be a little loose to show some of the sail.

UPDATE: conversed via email with Tom Lauria about one of his posted videos. He made a suggestion of using silkspan for the furled sails instead of the heavier weight fabric I used in the above picture. I took his advice and and removed the furled sails and waiting for silkspan material to arrive in the mail Monday. Let's see the difference.
UPDATE #2: Left is first attempt with cloth. Right is the first attempts with silkspan.

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On my very first model, I put sails on it that were fully deployed. This time, I decided to put sails on the Vic but have them furled. This is my first attempt to add them to a ship furled. I didn't want to hide all of the rigging. I tried this a couple of times and didn't like the sails so tight against the yards and ended up with is pictured below. I wanted the sails to be a little loose to show some of the sail.

UPDATE: conversed via email with Tom Lauria about one of his posted videos. He made a suggestion of using silkspan for the furled sails instead of the heavier weight fabric I used in the above picture. I took his advice and and removed the furled sails and waiting for silkspan material to arrive in the mail Monday. Let's see the difference.

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Try to make the sail wet when you shape them. Making the sails wet will make the fibers more easy going to shape them correctly.
You can spray them with starch and when they dry they keep the shape you gave them.
 
Maarten, thanks for the suggestion. The above picture is one of my earlier tries with furled sails. I liked the loose look as apposed to the really tight rolls to the yards one sees in photographs. I used the lightest muslin fabric they had. I used the same on my first build but had the sails unfurled. Corresponded with Tom Lauria who has a number of Youtube videos on model ship building. He recommend trying silkspan which I did order. I received the silkspan material from BlueJacket and tested a small piece following Tom Lauria's video example. Haven't tried attaching it on a sample yard to see if I will like it. Trying to finish standing lines on the foremast first before starting on a new untested (by me) approach. Will update the log when I see the results.
The below pictures are sails made with the muslin I used on my first build.
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Took Tom Lauria's advice and used silkspan for the sails instead of the lightest weight muslin the local fabric store carried. I think this one looks less bulky and when wet, it was much easier to fold and tie to the yard. I believe I will use silkspan on all of my furled sails.
 
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Getting better at making silkspan furled sails. Many will say furled sails should be much tighter but, I wanted to show a looser furl. I think it looks a lot more eye pleasing for some of us novice vice a tight rolled up sail. Might have to try my hand at making the lower sails in a drying mode.

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