HMY Fubbs Stern Section 1720's

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Yep ..., because there aren't nearly enough Fubbs Stern section builds on here I decided I should post mine as well.

This is my build log for the 1:24 Stern Section of the HMY Fubbs.

His Majesty Yacht (HMY) Fubbs was laid down at Greenwich shipyards by Phineas Pett in 1682. By Royal Navy standards yachts would be the size of a typical harbor dispatch vessel or lightly armed gunboat. HMY Fubbs sported a keel length of only 63’ with at a specified 148 tons fully loaded. With a 21’ breadth and only 9’6” depth in hold these small ships carried a crew of up to 30 and could be armed with 8 – 12 3 pounders.

Royal Yacht duties primarily consisted of tending to the affairs of the royal household. Charles II must have enjoyed yacht class vessels as he had 23 of them during his reign – more than any other English king. HMY Fubbs was the most lavish of his fleet of Royal Yachts.

Visually, the hull of a Royal Yacht has the look of a 6th rate but is more akin to a ketch-rigged sloop. As such, she has a mizzen mast that passes through the small great cabin and no true orlop deck at all. As will be shown later, the stern ports are too close to the waterline and are not actually accessible from inside the ship. What look like stern quarter galleries are more like quarter badges. Most contemporary modelers and many artists tend to imagine HMY Fubbs as a larger ship than it really is due to the illusion created by the artistic style of the ship. The existing plans show a door leading into the quarter gallery. The quarter gallery can’t possibly have been more than 3 feet tall inside, therefore clearly a person couldn’t reasonably go inside it. There are several of the details that look rather odd because of the frigate style being done on a small yacht. As an example the planks below the stern counter appear way to large due to the ship being so small.

Here is a size comparison drawing. HMS Alfred, 3rd Rate, Ship of the Line, a frigate with a gun deck length of 169 feet. Compared to the HMY Fubbs, a Royal Yacht with a keel length of 63 feet.

Alfred_vs_Fubbs-M.png


Charles II employed well known Baroque period artists Van de Veldes younger and senior. Their artwork had a direct influence on the highly decorated HMY Fubbs. HMY Fubbs was named after the mistress of Charles II, the Duchess of Portsmouth, Louise de Keroualle. “Fubbs” was the nickname for Charles II mistress with the meaning of a chubby contemptuous child. HMY Fubbs remained in service for more than 80 years before being broken up in 1781. During that time, it went through 2 refits. One in 1701 and again in 1724. During the 1724 refit, most of her carvings were salvaged and replaced by painted frieze work. There is sufficient historical evidence on Royal Yachts to know they were lightly framed compared to other Royal Navy ships. It was noted that HMY Fubbs would require futtock riders to support the light frame timbers. While the specific duties of HMY Fubbs may not be known it is reasonable to expect the vessel was probably used for intimate entertainment purposes and fine dining.

The reader Is also directed to build logs by

Doc Blakes Stern Section:

Daniels Fubbs Stern Section:

Mike41's Fubbs Build on MSB:

The kits were produced by Weasel Works which is a group of modelers with different interests and skills, really just friends that build model ships and not a business. Several are extreme techies and are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.

There were 11 kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype. There are no plans to produce any more. None were sold to anyone.

Here is one of the kits ready to box and ship. This is one of Mikes photos, don't think I can show this better so I just used his picture.

i-s8TvNcG-L.jpg


Now from me.

This is the rear approximately 1/3 of the HMY Fubbs. From just forward of the main cabin to the rear. There isn't presently a completed model of this. Mike Shanks has a mostly built prototype of the model, but we changed a lot of parts from the prototype before production. The lofting and basic design of the ship is from Bob Hunt's plans for the kit he used to sell, (With his blessing and assistance as well), Mike with help from some other members of the Weasel Works group put this kit together. Mike did all of the production of the kits including all of the 3D printing, machining, laser cutting, additional documentation etc. The digital carvings and 3D modeling on the stern were my contribution. This kit was intended to be the first version from 1684 with all of the carvings and will have the interior of the main cabin, and bilge beneath it modeled. There is a lot of unknowns about exactly how this ship was built and decorated, and a lot of conflicting information. As mentioned above, the ship was refit over the years on several different occasions for diferent purposes. The stern lanterns are shown in different configurations during different time periods as well.

The model was developed with Portia's and Reverend Romero’s Practicums and Bob Hunts work, as well as the photos of the contemporary model and paintings etc. But instead of deciding what is "Correct" and expecting everyone to do it that way. In places where there is confusion such as the layout of the main cabin floor, that is being left up to the builder to decide how they want to do it. There are quite a few items that there is no way to really know how it was originally completed; the contemporary model has the domed entryway on the port side and the later practicums all have the entryway on the starboard side. It could be built as the 1684 version or after refit in accordance with one of the practicums it's up to each individual how they want to do that.

The kit contains a bunch of different types of wood kind of in line with the painting with wood concept. The members were also allowed to choose the wood they preferred for the frames and the method that they were produced. Meaning milled or laser cut. The main difference being that the laser cut ones have bevel lines so you don't have to glue templates on them, but you do have to remove the char.

The model goes from frame 25 to the rear. This was chosen because it includes the gold domed entry and the windowed wall in front of the main cabin with a small portion of the quarterdeck.



Fubbs%20Clamps%20Print-L.jpg


This portion is basically what will be covered by the stern section. This is one of Bob Hunts models.

hunt%20stern-L.jpg


Now for my model specifically;

I opted to go with the laser cut Cherry frames because I like the look of the cherry and its workability. Also being as I still work full time, I didn’t want to need to spend a ton of time cutting gluing and ungluing paper.

As I mentioned above, I did the carvings in the computer, and they were machined by Mike Shanks. In my defense, just for starters I had never done a single carving in real life or in the computer prior to October 17, 2022 when Mike asked me to give it a shot. I spent until the 29th of October working in Fusion 360 and decided it wasn’t at all practical to use it for sculpting. I had actually decided to throw in the towel and was typing an e-mail to tell Mike that when I got to thinking about how video game characters are done. I searched around and decided to give a program called Mudbox a shot. It is basically Autodesk's version of Z-Brush. The carvings included in the kit are my best effort at the time they were created.

I’m not thinking they are super great, but I’m very happy given I went from never doing a sculpture to producing these in basically 3 months. To be honest, they aren’t even the best I can do today, but at some point we had to get the model done. I expect my sculpting to continue to improve as time goes on. I may even rework some of the parts on this model as I do have the capability to produce them at home on a limited basis. My little 3018 machine does fantastic work, but it isn’t up to production specs.

Many have probably seen it but there is a thread on my 3018 Beast here.

I wanted to say a little about how this project evolved over time. Mike and Doc Blake came up with the initial idea for the project and one of the main considerations was Bob Hunt had given / sold them the rights to use his plans, so that meant the project wouldn’t have to start from ground zero. As is typical the project took longer than anticipated, but not nearly as long as if it all started from scratch.

The plan was always to use technology to machine, print, and cut parts in the most efficient way we could. However, one thing we didn’t originally plan was the construction of the quarter badges etc. Once I started on the sculptures, I had the thought of;” How do I make sure everything fits?” Because I have been using Fusion 360 for several years now for everything from ship parts to rc plane parts, to fixing my lawnmower. I decided my best bet would be to just draw the stern in Fusion, then I could make sure the carvings fit exactly. I was worried I would spend 50 hours producing a sculpture that didn’t really fit on the model. So, I proceeded to start to draw the stern in Fusion. At this point I realized that the stern plan had some other issues that needed to be worked out. The plans we were using had a lot of the stern parts that were created by fitting them to the end of the frames from oversized blanks. Also, do to the previous kit being all cut from flat sheets the stern was flat across the back. At this point I decided to just redesign the stern from frame 37 back with the correct arcs. After a discussion with Mike we decided we would attempt to do full 3D machining on them. That is why much of the framing is laser cut flat sheets, but the very rear is fully machined.

So from that point I was able to create carvings that exactly fit the curve of the stern, side fashion etc. For instance, the large carving on the top of the stern is machined on the back to fit the curve of the stern so there is no need to try and bend or sand the back of the boxwood to make it fit.

This was my first effort at the upper stern carving. Complete with the ghoul faces and doesn’t actually fit the redesigned back of the ship.

i-66dQK4V-L.jpg


This is a later effort at cleaning that part up.

i-Z2RzPqz-L.jpg


This is the last piece I produced. It’s pretty clear I could do better now but like I said we had to stop at some point and make the kit.

i-6HqZ73L-L.jpg


I have quite a few Ideas of modifications I’d like to do as I build this, and I’ll get to those when the time comes. For now I’m on to the basic frame construction, similar to all of the other kits.

Before I actually got started I was looking at Mike41's log on MSB and it motivated me to make a dust collector for my spindle sander, so I had to print this before I could get to work on sanding the frames. It worked great to hold the vacuum near the spindle. I just clamped it to the table and attached the hose to the back.

i-crQd5Nq-S.jpg


So next post I'll talk about starting my build,
 
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Building the Framing

Portia T. I'm not even going to venture a try at her last name, explained in her book that this Navy board style or what she called I believe Single Foot Hook type of construction was chosen because being such a small ship the framing would have been light weight, I'll leave that for what it is. The idea of the Navy board style is to build the ship with no need for a jig. The full width frames are assembled over the templates which will theoretically make the width correct. If the beveling is done well each successive frame will just line up to complete the hull shape from there.

The new parts to be glued are on the bottom of the stack, and the square is used to make sure the stack is centered on the centerline of each pair. In the practicum it shows the pair of frames on the template which gives the centerline of the keel. You can put a spreader on the top end of the stack to mark the centerline of the ship as well.

The weird part that is confusing is it does leave the height the frames above the keel kind of floating around. Not really floating just dependent on the accuracy of the beveling. Being as these parts were all cnc cut; floor frames 25A through 31A should be level with the top of the keel. You can see that on the plan. I created a sheet for everyone that shows what the design dimension from the top of the keel to the bottom of full frames 25 through 37 would be by design. The tip of frame 37 should meet the point where the deadwood ends on the inner stern post.

Theoretically this relationship will just happen if the beveling of the frames is correct. I'm also struggling with the just glue it together idea. I can't get away from my natural instinct to measure everything. So I'll use the drawing below when I get to mine and see how that works.

i-zw5F7GV-L.jpg


With 10 people building this it will be interesting to see how they turn out. On the prototype this resulted in the rise of the back of the ship being a little flat. Some guys will do this free form like the prototype and like Daniel is doing here. Mike 41 is using his build board gantry on MSB. I'm a total engineer type so mine will be over measured to match the design exactly, to the best of my abilities. This project has been an interesting experiment so far. The rear from frame 37 back including the fashion pieces, flying transom, taffrail, window section etc is all machined to fit exactly. How much modification will be required will depend on how closely the framing matches the design. Particularly the rise of frames 31 through 37.

I went ahead and did the beveling of the frames and cleaned off the char from the sides.

i-rxd6LnT-L.jpg


At this point I kind of fell into one of those situations where it just feels like I should do some other things before I start gluing stuff together. My first though is I need to remove the char where it would still be visible on the exposed end of the frames. Simple enough but it would be nice to have those exposed ends form a nice smooth arc when it's all glued together. So, my next project is actually to try and make that happen by adjusting the ends of the frames before putting it together. I'll detail that in a few days.

On top of that my natural engineer self, decided I would like to check the progress of the frames as I glue the stack together to make sure things aren't wandering off the design. I've been cautioned not to use the numbers to build this, but part of me just can't resist at least seeing if I can hit the numbers. So first I did a little analyzing the difference from the top of one frame to the next and came to the conclusion that the deign should cause the tops of the frame to step up about 12mm from 25 to 25A, about 1.5mm from frame to frame from 25A to 32, and 1.75mm from frame to frame from 32a to 36. I was also considering adding some extra spreaders to control the width and ended up making a sheet that shows the widths at all the frames. The numbers on my sheet are actually 1mm over the design width because my frames are over sanded (That means thinner than design) by about 1.5mm's. If I just glue them up on the template they might not line up very good because of being narrow.

i-Pp525tL-L.jpg


So, I'll get some pictures as I even out the frame ends and see if I got it right or miscalculated when I put it together.
 
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WOW, Excellent intro and explanation of the model evolution. I am the most newbie modeler of the team and I already started to screw it up HAHAHA. Fortunately your log, Mike41, Bryian and others logs to be started will show the efforts placed on this project development by you guys, and it's beauty's.

Cheers !!
Daniel
 
Thanks for the kind words and looking in everyone,

Last night after dinner I decided to give the lower frame cleanup, I had been contemplating a shot. Being as this framing style is intended to be indicative of the light framing but isn't historically correct this probably doesn't make a big difference, but for cosmetic purposes it matters to me. In the photo below you can see the lower frames that extend to the keel and or deadwood. For aesthetic purposes the frames should form a nice line like the tape. In the Hunt practicum he has the builder file these after the hull is assembled. However, his model was at 1:48 so the frames were 1/4" instead of 1/2" thick like these are. I expect if I try to file these after gluing everything together, I'll end up marring up the adjacent frames. This is the type of tedious work I like to try and avoid, as my patients usually runs out long before the job is done.

Fubb-000-M.jpg


So after giving it a bunch of though I came up with this solution. There is an issue with just clamping the frames like I did in the photo above, and that is that these frames are 1/2" apart when assembled. That means if there is 3mm of rise across a frame then the taper on the next frame should actually start approximately 3mm higher to compensate for the spacing. I had to stagger the bottom of the frames to compensate. You can see below that they are staggered on the bottom (these are frames 25A through 31A that all rest on the keel). Note that the tops now line up better so the design cut is actually pretty close. It's just the squareness from being cut from a flat sheet that creates the sawtooth look.

Fubb-001-L.jpg


This is the char that needs removed.

Fubb-002-L.jpg


At that point it was just a matter of sanding the upper end with the detail sander. Here is the result.

Fubb-003-L.jpg


And here they are lined up on a full-sized drawing. Might not be perfect but should look good at this scale.

Fubb-004-L.jpg


I did the aft frames that went up the deadwood in a similar fashion. I did them separate because the stagger was extreme enough, I was afraid the clamp wouldn't hold if I tried to do the entire stack all at once. The elongated frame at the rear was just eyeballed to match the basic angle of the rest of the frame tops. Weather it forms a line, or a nice curve is just a matter of the angle you look at it. Note the char is all cleaned off.

Fubb-005-L.jpg


Then I did the same on the port side.

Fubb-006-L.jpg


It was the first time I used on of these detail sanders, and I highly recommend it if you have the budget. You can also get inexpensive ones from the usual sources. I have one of the cheap ones as well. It uses a belt about twice the width, so they actually complement each other well.

Fubb-007-L.jpg


I had originally thought I would go ahead and match the bottom of these frames to the deadwood at this point. Cutoff the black triangle portion on the drawing below. However, I really can't see any disadvantage to waiting till they are glued to the stack of frames at this point, the corners will be fully exposed.

Fubb-008-L.jpg


Next little project will be to clean the char from the lower ends of the upper frames where they will be exposed. Fortunately those are flat so a few minutes on the disk sander should make short work of that.
 
A question for the gang of Fubb builders, when a kit like this comes up how does one learn about them or get a chance to buy one of limited production kits?
 
KURT DEAR FRIEND, UNFORTUNATLY YOU CAN NOT THIS WAS DONE BY MIKE SHAKS AND COMPANY EXCLUSIVLY FOR 10 MEMBERS OF THE WEASEL WORKS, MIKE DID ALL FABRICATION YOU CAN FOLLOW THIS IN MY LOG INTRODUCTION IT EXPLAINS IT DO NOT WANT TO HIGH JACK THIS BUILD THIS ONE JODIE IS REALLY GOING TO HELP ME VERY GREATLY. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
 
There really isn’t any way people could have signed up for it or known about it. The group that put this together has no interest at all in making and selling kits, it was just a group project for our own enjoyment.

The people that have this kit got it for various reasons. Some was willingness to help with the design aspects. As I mentioned above Mike Shanks and Doc Blake who have been friends for a long time decided they wanted to do this project. Others they knew who had certain skills and other things to contribute were asked if they were interested in helping. Of course, the people with a lot of input on the design got a kit. A few others were given kits as thank you gifts of sorts for various reasons, and others are just friends of Mike that have stuck by his side over the years.

The bottom line is without Mike Shanks incredible generosity, efforts and leadership on this project, and in no small part the fact that he had the equipment, ability, time, and motivation to do the manufacturing this never would have happened.
 
THAT IS EXACTLY HOW I FEEL JODI, MIKE SHANKS KNOW HOW, EXPERTISE, COMUNICATIONS SKILLS IS MATCHED BY HIS EXTREME GENORISTY. AGAIN PUBLICALY THANK YOU MIKE SHANKS. THE FULL 4 STAR ADMIRAL OF THIS PROJECT AND IT IS STILL ON GOING ON THE WEASEL WORKS/ MSB. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
Thanks for the kind words and looking in everyone,

Last night after dinner I decided to give the lower frame cleanup, I had been contemplating a shot. Being as this framing style is intended to be indicative of the light framing but isn't historically correct this probably doesn't make a big difference, but for cosmetic purposes it matters to me. In the photo below you can see the lower frames that extend to the keel and or deadwood. For aesthetic purposes the frames should form a nice line like the tape. In the Hunt practicum he has the builder file these after the hull is assembled. However, his model was at 1:48 so the frames were 1/4" instead of 1/2" thick like these are. I expect if I try to file these after gluing everything together, I'll end up marring up the adjacent frames. This is the type of tedious work I like to try and avoid, as my patients usually runs out long before the job is done.

Fubb-000-M.jpg


So after giving it a bunch of though I came up with this solution. There is an issue with just clamping the frames like I did in the photo above, and that is that these frames are 1/2" apart when assembled. That means if there is 3mm of rise across a frame then the taper on the next frame should actually start approximately 3mm higher to compensate for the spacing. I had to stagger the bottom of the frames to compensate. You can see below that they are staggered on the bottom (these are frames 25A through 31A that all rest on the keel). Note that the tops now line up better so the design cut is actually pretty close. It's just the squareness from being cut from a flat sheet that creates the sawtooth look.

Fubb-001-L.jpg


This is the char that needs removed.

Fubb-002-L.jpg


At that point it was just a matter of sanding the upper end with the detail sander. Here is the result.

Fubb-003-L.jpg


And here they are lined up on a full-sized drawing. Might not be perfect but should look good at this scale.

Fubb-004-L.jpg


I did the aft frames that went up the deadwood in a similar fashion. I did them separate because the stagger was extreme enough, I was afraid the clamp wouldn't hold if I tried to do the entire stack all at once. The elongated frame at the rear was just eyeballed to match the basic angle of the rest of the frame tops. Weather it forms a line, or a nice curve is just a matter of the angle you look at it. Note the char is all cleaned off.

Fubb-005-L.jpg


Then I did the same on the port side.

Fubb-006-L.jpg


It was the first time I used on of these detail sanders, and I highly recommend it if you have the budget. You can also get inexpensive ones from the usual sources. I have one of the cheap ones as well. It uses a belt about twice the width, so they actually complement each other well.

Fubb-007-L.jpg


I had originally thought I would go ahead and match the bottom of these frames to the deadwood at this point. Cutoff the black triangle portion on the drawing below. However, I really can't see any disadvantage to waiting till they are glued to the stack of frames at this point, the corners will be fully exposed.

Fubb-008-L.jpg


Next little project will be to clean the char from the lower ends of the upper frames where they will be exposed. Fortunately those are flat so a few minutes on the disk sander should make short work of that.
Good morning. Off to a fantastic start and a great introduction to this build. Cheers Grant
 
There really isn’t any way people could have signed up for it or known about it. The group that put this together has no interest at all in making and selling kits, it was just a group project for our own enjoyment.

The people that have this kit got it for various reasons. Some was willingness to help with the design aspects. As I mentioned above Mike Shanks and Doc Blake who have been friends for a long time decided they wanted to do this project. Others they knew who had certain skills and other things to contribute were asked if they were interested in helping. Of course, the people with a lot of input on the design got a kit. A few others were given kits as thank you gifts of sorts for various reasons, and others are just friends of Mike that have stuck by his side over the years.

The bottom line is without Mike Shanks incredible generosity, efforts and leadership on this project, and in no small part the fact that he had the equipment, ability, time, and motivation to do the manufacturing this never would have happened.
Well said, Jodie! Those of us involved with Weasel Works owe both you and Mike a huge debt of gratitude. Thanks!!


weasel_final_logo.jpg
 
Thanks, and you guys are welcome for my contribution to the project. On Friday night I was back at it.

I over sanded, getting the char off of the sides of the frames. That got me to thinking about my method for assembling the frames and I realized I need to be more careful about my measurements and char removal on the rest of the model. Cutting through ½” cherry with the laser leaves a considerable amount of char behind.

Fubb-010-S.jpg


I went ahead and glued the lower frame halves together as seen below and left them over night.

Fubb-012-L.jpg


I realized that being as I wanted to set the frame height, or at least check it with the distance from above the keel that after sanding the dimensions would need to be adjusted. I measured the thickness of the frame from the intersect point on the top to the bottom of the frame, and wrote that number on the frame. The I sanded the frame to remove the char. Re-measured the thickness. Then wrote the difference on the frame. This is the amount I needed to add to the design dimension.

Fubb-015-L.jpg


I also sanded the char off the bottom of the upper sections of the “A” designated frames being as they will be visible when it is assembled. The amount taken off didn’t matter because I wasn’t using it to line anything up.

Fubb-013-L.jpg


The next thing I did was to line up frame 25A with Frame 25 which is the furthest forward and mark frame 25 to sand down. It was a little over sized to begin with and just gluing it together would result in a big overlap that would need to be removed later. I sanded it down and then assembled the frame over the template.

I also cut and glued a barbeque skewer across the top of the frame to set the width and marked the center of the skewer to center the top on the frame stacks.

Fubb-011-L.jpg


I added frame 25A with the 2 upper sections 12mm above the top of frame 25 and the lower section even with the bottom as both 25 and 25A should touch the keel. Then I started to attach frame 26. I placed the upper section 1.5mm above the top of frame 25A and measured the lower up from the bottom adjusted for the material I sanded off. In theory the lower frame should have touched the uppers. Instead, there was about a 3mm gap as you can see below.

Fubb-014-L.jpg


After a few minutes of investigation, I realized that frame 25 which was intentionally oversized to so it could be adjusted was 3mm taller than design. I sanded the bottom of frame 25 and moved forward. At this point the distance numbers I was using for frame 26 worked. Here’s the next couple layers.

Fubb-016-L.jpg


And again, I added a cut to length and marked skewer to be sure the centerline was being maintained. It’s kind of hard to see but there is a machinist square on the far side of the skewer aligned with the centerline at the edge of the ruler on the template.

Fubb-017-L.jpg


Then I moved up to the next frame. The numbers were all working out within about 0.5mm now. The top of each full frame was aligned 1.5mm above the top of the last. The lower frames in between that protrude down were aligned with the Keel location. The larger machinist square was used to set the keel location.

Fubb-018-L.jpg


I then just continued this same method up to frame 30A which is the second to last frame that rests on the keel. Here’s the results. Notice the consistent rise at the top of the model where the rail will be, along with the lines of the open spaces.

Fubb-020-L.jpg


Fubb-019-L.jpg


Next, I built frame 31 and 31A over the template, and added a skewer to hold the width correctly. At that point I checked to make sure it lined up with the previous stack correctly.

Fubb-023-L.jpg


Here it is on top of the stack.

Fubb-021-L.jpg


And here is a photo with the keel held up by the machinist square. These are the last lower frames that protrude all the way to touch the keel.

Fubb-022-L.jpg


At this point it’s pretty clear that this is not how the “Navy Board” model was intended to be assembled. While it’s possible to just align the parts with each other and need very little sanding afterward this method has pretty much every frame off just a little and it is going to require a significant about of sanding after it is assembled. Getting the milled parts instead of laser cut would probably have been better for my assemble it by the number's method.

From that point I continued staking and measuring with a couple changes. First was the frames from 31 through 36 are set 1.7mm above the previous instead of 1.5mm. And more importantly the foot frames that extend down are set above the keel so they have to be measured up from a square. There is a photo of that in a bit. I continued up to frame 36 with this method in a separate stack.

Fubb-026-L.jpg


And here are some pics of the 2 stacks together, they aren’t actually glued because this is so large, I was thinking it would be easier to do a lot of the sanding in sections. Though now I'm second guessing that thought because I need the whole thing to line up eventually.

Fubb-030-XL.jpg


Fubb-029-XL.jpg


When I went to install lower frame 36A, when it was lined up with frame 36, it was 44mm from the keel. The design number I needed was 39mm and there was no way I could fudge it in 5mm to low. Here you can see how I measured the distance up from the keel location.

Fubb-024-L.jpg


After some minor consideration I decided to just lengthen the frame. The reason it was short is it was redesigned to fit with the standard Navy Board assembly. The kit comes with false deadwood pieces that fit between the aft frames. I figured I could just use one of those to extend the frame. I got them out and after looking at the char. I got lazy and just cut some from a new piece of cherry I had in my stash. Much easier than sanding the char off the small pieces.

Fubb-028-M.jpg


I then sanded the foot of the frame up a bit to make a nice square clean attachment point and glued the extension to it. This is where having a ¼ thick steel plate for the top of my workbench really comes in handy. Partially because it’s flat, and partially because I can use magnets directly on the bench top.

Fubb-025-L.jpg


I missed a bit of time taking some photos. After I added the length to lower frame 36A I attached it along with the upper frame 36A pieces. I had to mark and cut the two upper pieces to match the fashion piece at the back. Late in the design we changed the fashion piece to include the upper portion of the window. That change included the upper portion of frame 36A. We didn't get the upper portion of the Laser cut 36A pieces adjusted. Not a hard thing to correct though.

I then stacked all of the fully 3D machined pieces on the top to see how it all fit. I’m pretty happy with it. Keep in mind, the two stacks of frames are not glued together, and all of the keel and 3D machined pieces are just rough cut and stacked in the photos.

Fubb-033-X2.jpg


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Next up is a lot of sanding and fitting. Sanding isn't may favorite thing to do but I'll get through it.
 
OK I JUST WANT TO POSE A QUESTION TO JODIE AND ALL REGARDING SANDING CHAR, I RECENTLY PURCHASED A SET OF 2 INCH DRUM SANDERS I SHOW BRIEFLY PARTIAL SET UP IN MY LOG INTRODUCTION, BRIEFLY IT HAS 1/8 AND 1/4 INCH SHANKS SOFT BACK AND HARD BACK IT IS SCREW TYPE, WILL SHOW MORE INDETAL THE PRICE WAS RIGHT $29.00 QUICK DELIVERY THROUGH AMAZON. I STARTED SOME BEVELING AND COBANATION SPINDEL SANDER AND THE 2 INC IN A DREMEL THE CHAR CAME OF QUICKLY AND NOT TO MUCH TAKEN OFF. WHEN I DO MORE ON FRAM NO 28 DRY FIT WILL POST ON MY LOG. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
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