One additional step that I do is to use the drill bit to round out the hole simulating a sheave where the line goes around it and not straight through to present a more visual and practical means for the line to both enter and leave, (the fall). I do it for both upper and lower holes so that I don't have to think about the correct placement of the block for the running rigging. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
I am not sure if you shared very much with how you prepare the block sheave upper and lower holes fairing them to assist in the smooth entry and fall of the line. Then, no matter what the line size is, I always rub and twist the end in the direction of handing, with carpenter's alephatic glue to stiffen it before cutting it at an angle creating a stiff needle to pass through the block. Oh yes, I also pull the line across my bees wax block and pass it several times through my fingers, "melting' or setting the wax into the line which also reduces any fuzziness. As to tightening the line through the block it can be a challenge not to pull something out of place so I use small tweezers coaxing the line a bit at a time through as well as pinching the entry and exiting fall onto the sheave portion of the block. No fast way that I know of but having prepped the block holes larger and faired for the radiused sheave is a critical step. Best of luck as you experiment and proceed. Rich (PT-2)
I recognize the making of blocks and holding device made by Dmitry Shevelev, Am I correct, Sasha?
Dima, you are surprisingly perceptive.
Yes, this is Dima Shevelev's developmentYou took the words out of my mouth, I agreed 100% with that idea because that is exacltly what I also do. (Drill a larger hole.)
Excuse me for being pedantic in my confusion of terminology: as I understand "blocks" are wooden surrounds for internal sheaves (grooved wheels) for reduced effort in passing lines in a changed direction of travel, often 180 deg. While a solid, non-rotating devise with one opening is often a "thimble" or "Heart" depending upon actual shape, which are often used at the end eye spliced into a line through which a line passes that does not frequently change setting as with sheets for example.
This information seems to talk about sheaved blocks and not the single hole block that was initially posed for help. I do appreciate the guidelines though and will make a note of those for the future. Rich (PT-2)
