How to build Hammock Cranes from scratch in 1:90 scale

Hello Yurij, If you are willing to spend some money, you can purchase the PE parts. One of our members Dafi sells upgrade PE frets. The best thing, that you can buy only fret\s for the parts you want to upgrade. The parts are for the Heller 1:100 scale kit, but I am sure it will fit your model OK.


...or, this can be made from a brass wire. Calculate the length of the rod, form the eyes on both ends, and bent to the shape. In this case, the problem is to make uniform eyelets (same size). Another way is to make rings and solder them to the station of correct\required size, finally bend them.

kak to tak, ;)
 
Thanks Jimsky. I have a lot of copper wire. Would that do? Brass is stiffer I believe.
Yes, copper wire is well suitable and can be blackened, but as you mentioned, brass is a stiffer and preferable choice. Also, a big factor is soldering, if you intend to solder with regular solder, then copper is better (it required less heat), brass can be soldered with silver solder.
 
I do silver soldering no problem. Main issue will be to position the u shape wire and the top rings for soldering. Any suggestions?
No worries, I got your question correctly. Two things: First, no need to 'U' shape before soldering. Do some math to calculate the post length you will need. then solder the rings (both ends), then bend to a 'U' shape.
As for the soldering rings to the post, you have to make a jig (Russian conductor). Let me sketch one (how I see t) and I will add it to the post

edited to insert the sketch
IMG_2112.jpeg
 
Hi Jimsky. It looks as I can use the jig only with the regular soldering iron only. The silver soldering torch would burn the wood. Am I correct?
Yep, you are correct, Yuri. Frankly, a regular solder will be just fine, you need just a touch to hold the ring.
 
…also maybe someone could give an advice on hammock crane netting? I found this kind of fabric but it has a honeycomb construction. The cells size is good though. I maybe could have accepted this but would like to have something that looks more realistic.
F067AA26-9E80-407B-87C5-DDC43E2B229D.jpeg
 
Yep, you are correct, Yuri. Frankly, a regular solder will be just fine, you need just a touch to hold the ring.
I think that if you "tin" the two parts to start with, then when in contact in your jig the solder will flow very fast with little heating time from you iron tip. This method has been much easier for small soldering work for me than trying to apply solder bits to the pre-fluxed but not tinned parts which are in contact. Just an idea for your to consider and possibly experiment with. Rich (PT-2)
 
Pre-tinning of a 0.8 mm DIAMETER ring and 0.5 mm DIA copper wire will be an exciting experience. I will let all you know of the progress.
 
Check also the Model and the stuff @dafi is selling. His victory is in 1:100 and a lot will fit
 
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