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I would say no have a look on YouTube the kits for it seem straight forward to install the kit probably the hardest part will be software set up and tramming the machine which should be done even if your not using it cnc
You are referring to the Proxxon MF 70 mini mill I assume Pat ?
I have the MF 70 mill, and would be interested in seeing if you can upgrade the machine to CNC.
the software to run the hardware should be pretty much all set up. The problem comes because these machines all have different end points so you will have to set those up in the software, but that shouldn't be to difficult with good instructions. Tramming the milling table is another animal entirely you will need a last word indicator for that. those can be had at reasonable prices just remember you get what you pay for with Machine tools Starrett is king of machine tools but not cheap. there is plenty of info on tramming the table on the net. Tramming is the set up of the table to perfect square on all 4 corners this has to be square to the Spindle on all 4 corners this may require you to remove your table and shim it. I have a high end Milling machine and have adjustments for such a process but the small machines don't usually have this feature. I have a small micro mill from harbor freight getting that table trammed was a royal pain in the back side. I am unsure of how well the Proxxon is built so it could be an easier process on that mill. you can look this stuff up ahead of time and see if its within your capabilities that should help with your decision a little bit.
3D printers aren't without issue but most generally run well right out of the box. I have the XYZ I have one of the first models that came out I have done a lot of work to it like replace the cheap bearings with good Bocca bearings I have upgraded the extruder and the firmware as well I upgraded the software it runs on so it now runs on something better then the factory stuff it came with. XYZ has fixed the issues thay had and now even comes with the ability to add a laser to use it as a laser cutter/ engraver. I ended up buying a standalone 60Watt laser or I would have bought a newer XYZ printer to get that feature.https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=xyz+printers
3D printers aren't without issue but most generally run well right out of the box. I have the XYZ I have one of the first models that came out I have done a lot of work to it like replace the cheap bearings with good Bocca bearings I have upgraded the extruder and the firmware as well I upgraded the software it runs on so it now runs on something better then the factory stuff it came with. XYZ has fixed the issues thay had and now even comes with the ability to add a laser to use it as a laser cutter/ engraver. I ended up buying a standalone 60Watt laser or I would have bought a newer XYZ printer to get that feature.https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=xyz+printers
Hi Pat. The CNC use is great for repeated items of precision. For carving, its not worth the cost to upgrade the MF 70. Its cutting area is to small for a lot of work. ( ie instead of making several items in one job, you would have to run lots of little jobs with very small bits). The effort to set each up is not insignificant. Money spent here would be better served on a scroll saw & Dremel bits / Tools for caving.
There is lots of free software, for cutting, layout etc, but the learning curve is not short. No trying to put you off, but Personally I believe that hand carving would be more productive for small items.
There is lots of free software, for cutting, layout etc, but the learning curve is not short. No trying to put you off, but Personally I believe that hand carving would be more productive for small items.
Id say for doing one off yes a hand carving would probably be easier definitely cheaper, but if you need multiple copies you could look into Molding from your single carving molding is an easy process to do and cheap as well
That's possible as well if you know anything about casting you could even cast it in a metal that needs little heat like lead if you add solder to the lead it makes it much harder you could just cast in straight solder also. lead and solder can be done with a small hand held torch. I have even melted Pennies with a handheld propane torch and MAP gas would be even easier as it burns hotter those are usually in a yellow bottle at home depot in the plumbing section. for small stuff like medallions an open mold would get the job done. All that said casting metal can be dangerous I have a small home foundry that I cast aluminum, bronze and brass in. you will want to buy the proper clothing to make sure any splash doesn't get on you. its also better to pour in a dirt area then concrete I found that out the hard way and had to have concrete removed from my leg. 1 drop of molten bronze dripped from the crucible onto the concrete and caused it to explode. this happened because concrete contains moisture in it for a very long time even years after its hardened the hot metal dripped onto it can cause moisture trapped in the concrete to vaporize into steam since its trapped its like a mini bomb and explodes sending small bits of concrete everywhere. I had a hole 3" round and 1/2" deep in the concrete from one little drip. so I now only pour molten metal over a dirt surface. If your not familiar with casting metal then I would spend atleast a few months doing research on how to do it safely. its not as dangerous as some may think and in 20 years of casting metal I have only had that one single mishap.
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Tin is fairly easy yes and melts at a lower heat then lead, but finding a resource for pure tin could be more difficult then finding one for lead or solder tin melts around 450* F , lead around 620*F both are doable with a small propane torch you can buy a ladle with a pour spout to melt both in. Regardless of which you chose make sure you get a good resperator.
Anyone know where I can purchase some bigger hand whining cranks for the Proxxon MF 70 ?
I feel they are too small and takes forever to whine them in and out.
I feel they are too small and takes forever to whine them in and out.
May have to have those made brother I have seen guys extend the screws wheels with a piece if flat bar screwed across the top and a handle added to the end to turn it.they used the self tapping screws to secure the bar stock.
I am using pewter (or Britannia, white metal) for casting in heat resistant silicon mould. The pewter can be molted without any specific preparation even on a gas stowe flame, this is what I am doing. No need for more dangerous higher temp gas flames.
Janos
Janos