Kancabaş, a Marmara Sea boat (1:48, in fact 1:36)

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Another completed model, this time it's a Chinese kit by Shicheng. I suppose that the kit copies the Turkish model by Fatih Karalar (which was in the 1:36 scale). In turn, Mr. Karalar's model is based on a 19th century engraving from the “Souvenirs de Marine” book. As additional sources I used various paintings and watercolours by Amedeo Preziosi and the K-H Marquardt's book “Bemastung und Takelung von Schiffen des 18. Jahrhunderts “.
I made the following changes in the kit:
1) Added two bulkheads afore and abaft the open part of the hull, since they are in the historical design;
2) Added waterways and drain-holes;
3) Modified the rigging;
4) Added some goods in the hold;
5) The ornaments are laser-cut from veneer. I designed them myself, using as reference the pictures of Sultan kayaks I took in the Istanbul Maritime museum.
The sailors' figures are made from polymer clay and it's my first attempt to create something like this.original_print.jpgDSC_5532.jpgDSC_5533.jpgDSC_5535.jpgDSC_5540.jpgDSC_5542.jpgDSC_5543.jpgDSC_5544.jpgDSC_5545.jpgDSC_5547.jpgDSC_5550.jpgDSC_5552.jpgDSC_5553.jpgDSC_5687.jpgDSC_5690.jpgDSC_5690.jpgDSC_5691.jpgIMG_20190831_134131_01.jpg
 
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A very nice model, looks exceptionally well built. I have never seen a comparable ship here. My search was also immediately successful. There is a "de luxe" version with etching material etc. I am always very hesitant when it comes to shipping from China. Are there any problems?
 
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A very nice model, looks exceptionally well built. I have never seen a comparable ship here. My search was also immediately successful. There is a "de luxe" version with etching material etc. I am always very hesitant when it comes to shipping from China. Are there any problems?
Thanks a lot! As I know, the quality of Chinese kits is often unpredictable. But with this one I had not any specific problem, though I replaced many details like the mast, the bulwark rail, the bitts etc. And be ready to adapt some unprecise elements. The photoetched details were good. Maybe the assembling manual was not so clear.
 
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Thanks a lot! As I know, the quality of Chinese kits is often unpredictable. But with this one I had not any specific problem, though I replaced many details like the mast, the bulwark rail, the bitts etc. And be ready to adapt some unprecise elements. The photoetched details were good. Maybe the assembling manual was not so clear.
Thank you for the information. A really interesting model, I can't get it out of my head. If I may ask - why did you replace the masts? Are the figures well made, carved or molded by you?
 
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If I may ask - why did you replace the masts? Are the figures well made, carved or molded by you?
I replaced only the lower mast, because it was too thin for me. On the other hand, the bulwark rail was too thick and rigid,and impossible to use.
And that's how I made the figures.
 

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I replaced only the lower mast, because it was too thin for me. On the other hand, the bulwark rail was too thick and rigid,and impossible to use.
And that's how I made the figures.
Thanks, I understand that only too well. It is often the case when you look at the construction kit specifications. Sometimes you wonder if nobody really thought about it. I am currently building the Ocre Cazador. A good model, but also with flaws. About the figures - it's amazing what you've made of simple materials. Respect.
 
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Jimsky

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@Walterone
Привествую, Володя.
Если можешь, расскажи пожалуйста как ты тонирусешь битумным лаком и что это такое, какие пртопорци, чем разбовляешь? Я думаю мнигим форумчанам понравится твой метод тонитровки.

С уважением,
Дмитрий

Greetings, Volodya.
If you can, please tell us how you tint with bitumen varnish and what it is, what kind of props, how do you dilute? I think many members of the forum will like your toning method.

1617636630164.png
 
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@Walterone
Greetings, Volodya.
If you can, please tell us how you tint with bitumen varnish and what it is, what kind of props, how do you dilute? I think many members of the forum will like your toning method.
Well, I'll try to, though my English is too poor for such a complex subject :)
This tint method is not my idea, the first to use it was Dmitry Shevelev, as I know.
Here is Wikipedia about the bitumen varnish: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Битумный_лак (unfortunately, it's only in Russian). Shortly, it's bitumen with some hydrocarbonic solvents. Here in Russia it's almost everywhere in the market.
I dilute it quite highly with white spirit (mineral spirit), otherwise the surface would be dark, but glossy and sticky. It's better to try various proportions before applying on the model.
I also use it to colour the ropes for rigging (in this model too) and as washing, like in plastic models.
 
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Well, I'll try to, though my English is too poor for such a complex subject :)
This tint method is not my idea, the first to use it was Dmitry Shevelev, as I know.
Here is Wikipedia about the bitumen varnish: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Битумный_лак (unfortunately, it's only in Russian). Shortly, it's bitumen with some hydrocarbonic solvents. Here in Russia it's almost everywhere in the market.
I dilute it quite highly with white spirit (mineral spirit), otherwise the surface would be dark, but glossy and sticky. It's better to try various proportions before applying on the model.
I also use it to colour the ropes for rigging (in this model too) and as washing, like in plastic models.
Now I remember that. During our training in the photo industry, we also worked with old manufacturing processes. Bitumen of Judea was used to sensitize photo plates from the early days of photography. Today it is also used in furniture restoration: https://www.xylazel.com/en/content/xylazel-bitumen-judea
 
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