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very good prepared for different methods I like it
La Belle 1/36 - Plan by Jean Boudriot / myself
- Thread starter Olivers Historic Shipyard
- Start date
- Watchers 56
Thank you, @Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) 
A short update
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Hallo Oliver,
many thanks fopr your update - so we can see, that you made already some sawdust in your workshop.
But it will be much more sanding dust, if you start the sanding and fairing of your frames......we can see, that you left really enough meat for sanding the frames into the correct final shape. (red marked)
I suppose, that you cut out the final frames after you finished the jig and adjusted the first frames into the jig on top of your keel.
Maybe you can reduce later on the sanding work on the frames, when you know exactly how much meat along the frames you really need.
I know from my Salamandre, that it is a hard and long work, especially the inside the hull - so I try every time to reduce the meat to the real necessary.
The arrow is marking an edge where you will have to be very careful when sanding.
The last photo is showing the two half of the waterline-level of the jig, I guess?
Here in green I marked the edges where in moment the outside edge of the frames (not sanded) would be
I am looking forward to see much more of your built .....
many thanks fopr your update - so we can see, that you made already some sawdust in your workshop.
But it will be much more sanding dust, if you start the sanding and fairing of your frames......we can see, that you left really enough meat for sanding the frames into the correct final shape. (red marked)
I suppose, that you cut out the final frames after you finished the jig and adjusted the first frames into the jig on top of your keel.
Maybe you can reduce later on the sanding work on the frames, when you know exactly how much meat along the frames you really need.
I know from my Salamandre, that it is a hard and long work, especially the inside the hull - so I try every time to reduce the meat to the real necessary.
The arrow is marking an edge where you will have to be very careful when sanding.
The last photo is showing the two half of the waterline-level of the jig, I guess?
Here in green I marked the edges where in moment the outside edge of the frames (not sanded) would be
I am looking forward to see much more of your built .....
Hello @Uwek ,
i think you are my brother from a another mother. Your are correct in all points. Only the red arrows isn´t incorrect for my model. The first dashed line on the frame marks the cutting line. The rest above is helping geometry.
Sorry i write now in german, maybe you can translate for the forum.
Ich habe soviel Fleisch gelassen weil ich im ersten Step ja den vorderen und hinteren Spant zusammenleimen muss. Ich habe auch sehr viel Respekt vor meinem Spindelschleifer und meiner Dekupiersäge. Einmal zu viel und das Teil ist Müll. Das wollte ich auch nicht.
Im zweiten Step wird das dann heruntergeschliffen und ins Scherbrett eingepasst. Gleichzeitig dann auch generell vorgestrakt. Damit muss man aber aufpassen.
Die Zeichnungen der Voder und der Rückseite des Doppelspantes müssen sich dafür eigentlich sehr genau decken. Dafür habe ich die Linien eingezeichnet. Um beim verleimen die beiden Teile auf deckung zu bekommen. Trauen tue ich dem ganzen aber trotzdem nicht. Also sollte man das schleifen eher vorsichtig machen und trotzdem noch Fleisch fürs finale Straken lassen. Ich werde zum einpassen ins Scherbrett ganu auf die Kontur runterschleifen um einen genauen Sitz zu bekommen. Mir fällt nun gerade auf, dass die Spanten sich durch die Federwirkung überdrücken lassen. Das kann das Ergebnis unangenehm verfälschen. Ich bin nun am überlegen Querverstrebungen einzuleimen, die den Spant in Form halten. Damit ist dann Automatisch definiert, dass der Rumpf aussen zuerst fertiggebaut werden muss.
Innen straken ist ein Albtraum. Vor allem bei der kleinen Hülle ist es schwer mit der Hand reinzukommen, es sei denn noch mit Werkzeug.
i think you are my brother from a another mother. Your are correct in all points. Only the red arrows isn´t incorrect for my model. The first dashed line on the frame marks the cutting line. The rest above is helping geometry.
Sorry i write now in german, maybe you can translate for the forum.
Ich habe soviel Fleisch gelassen weil ich im ersten Step ja den vorderen und hinteren Spant zusammenleimen muss. Ich habe auch sehr viel Respekt vor meinem Spindelschleifer und meiner Dekupiersäge. Einmal zu viel und das Teil ist Müll. Das wollte ich auch nicht.
Im zweiten Step wird das dann heruntergeschliffen und ins Scherbrett eingepasst. Gleichzeitig dann auch generell vorgestrakt. Damit muss man aber aufpassen.
Die Zeichnungen der Voder und der Rückseite des Doppelspantes müssen sich dafür eigentlich sehr genau decken. Dafür habe ich die Linien eingezeichnet. Um beim verleimen die beiden Teile auf deckung zu bekommen. Trauen tue ich dem ganzen aber trotzdem nicht. Also sollte man das schleifen eher vorsichtig machen und trotzdem noch Fleisch fürs finale Straken lassen. Ich werde zum einpassen ins Scherbrett ganu auf die Kontur runterschleifen um einen genauen Sitz zu bekommen. Mir fällt nun gerade auf, dass die Spanten sich durch die Federwirkung überdrücken lassen. Das kann das Ergebnis unangenehm verfälschen. Ich bin nun am überlegen Querverstrebungen einzuleimen, die den Spant in Form halten. Damit ist dann Automatisch definiert, dass der Rumpf aussen zuerst fertiggebaut werden muss.
Innen straken ist ein Albtraum. Vor allem bei der kleinen Hülle ist es schwer mit der Hand reinzukommen, es sei denn noch mit Werkzeug.
Hello Oliver,
very nice work so far.
The CAD / 3D images are absolutely top.
Such plan I search for the construction of the frames of the Royal Caroline.
Unfortunately, no one has yet contacted me to make these drawings.
Question: Do you also commissioned work in the style of your work?
regards Karl
very nice work so far.
The CAD / 3D images are absolutely top.
Such plan I search for the construction of the frames of the Royal Caroline.
Unfortunately, no one has yet contacted me to make these drawings.
Question: Do you also commissioned work in the style of your work?
regards Karl
Karl,contact @Mike41 if he can help you.
Hello Karl,
first, your skill of your work is my master and my goal.
I ´ve sent you a message via facebook.
first, your skill of your work is my master and my goal.
I ´ve sent you a message via facebook.
A little update...
A small....but really powerful update! Out of curiosity, what was used to imitate caulking?
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Because of the unknown behaviour of the Plastic-wood-glue-strength I like to use thin paper (origami) to simulate the black line.
But I am interested to hear from your experience in future ...... crossing the fingers
But I am interested to hear from your experience in future ...... crossing the fingers
Thanks again, Oliver. I can read German, but it looks like a contact cement for me: you have to putt a thin layer of glue on both parts, let them dry and attach together tight.
Thanks, Uwe. How does the paper behaves, when you need to scrape the deck, and how does it behaves under oils afterward?
I hope your joints hold up Oliver.The difference with Kortes's deck was it was laid on a substrate,the edge to edge gluing of the planking is actually unimportant in that scenario.
I have used black tissue paper for this effect with success.Both faces need glue(PVA preferably slightly thinned with water) before sandwiching the paper.However the matting faces have to be perfect,any deviation or nick and your will have an uneven line.
The glue does soak right through the tissue making it a solid lump.
Kind Regards
Nigel
I have used black tissue paper for this effect with success.Both faces need glue(PVA preferably slightly thinned with water) before sandwiching the paper.However the matting faces have to be perfect,any deviation or nick and your will have an uneven line.
The glue does soak right through the tissue making it a solid lump.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Due to the fact, that paper is produced out of wood, it is behaving like timber when dry - you can scrape, sand etc.
Take a look at these photos of my Salamandre
in the beginning
later
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Here you can be right - I want to point out the joint - so the paper has only 30 to 50g/m2 - it is special origami paper . very very thin.
With thicker paper you get a problem sometimes, that the paper by itself is collapsing in the layers of the paper, so it had to be very wet from glue (durchtränkt von Holzleim) - BTW: I am using for such joints only water based wood-glue (Ponal)