In order to fit the planks onto the deadwood area, I really had to twist them like crazy using the soldering iron. It turned out to be a 90 degree twist. 
I think it’s time to clean up my shop. 
Hi Vic
I don't even want to take a picture of my desk.
Yours is super tidy !!!
I don't even want to take a picture of my desk.
Yours is super tidy !!!
Since my space is shared to some degree, I don't get the option to get too much clutter or sanding dust in the area.
First planking is done! Now I have to plane, putty, and sand. The Admiral says I need to do that outside. Then I have to clean up my work space before working on the ship inside. 
Wow! That was fast Vic!
It took me as long to dress up the keel, stem, and stern with walnut veneer as it did to plank the hull. Of course, that’s not counting the plywood upper and associated planking in between or the digging out of the deadwood area.
I concur with Paul, the first planking has been done really fast
Keep up
Well, Gilbert, it's been nice having six days in a row where I had nothing else to do. You can get a lot done if you've spent some time researching and preparing. Many thanks to all those who have given encouragement and suggestions. I've viewed several threads from @dockattner, @paulb, and others and communicated with @Mr.Deep to get better ideas on how to do things. It's not as pretty a first planking as many I've seen, but after planing, puttying, and sanding, it seems to be a pretty good base for the second planking. I'm not at my best with planking, but I think I'm doing better on this, my third ship. Thanks again, all who have gone before. And @Jimsky for all the positive encouragement.
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And thanks for all the likes and views. You all help me keep going.
I think I found a faster and more efficient way to take off the dried putty. I’m using a drywall sander that is for sanding shackle or mud from taping and bedding walls during construction of houses. It won’t clog like sandpaper does. 
About a pound of sawdust later (or 500kg for you outlanders). 
Small hint while you are shaping the hull. Have a long strip of wood, lay one end of it at the bow (close to the Stem) and push it to the hull, another end of the strip will touch the Stern part of the hull. Ideally, you shouldn't observe any gaps\bumps. It should form a smooth and even transition line.
If you see the bumps, there you have to sand to make it even, contrary if you see gaps you need to fill them with either wood pieces or putty (depends how deep is the gap. A good putty for this kind of job, is a mix of PVA glue and sanding dust.
Hope I explained it correctly with my RussEnglinh.
If you see the bumps, there you have to sand to make it even, contrary if you see gaps you need to fill them with either wood pieces or putty (depends how deep is the gap. A good putty for this kind of job, is a mix of PVA glue and sanding dust.
Hope I explained it correctly with my RussEnglinh.
Good idea, Jim. I just wish I weren’t getting so bored with planking and sanding. And it’s so messy! I know that sounds strange coming from someone with such a messy work space.Small hint while you are shaping the hull. Have a long strip of wood, lay one end of it at the bow (close to the Stem) and push it to the hull, another end of the strip will touch the Stern part of the hull. Ideally, you shouldn't observe any gaps\bumps. It should form a smooth and even transition line.
If you see the bumps, there you have to sand to make it even, contrary if you see gaps you need to fill them with either wood pieces or putty (depends how deep is the gap. A good putty for this kind of job, is a mix of PVA glue and sanding dust.
Hope I explained it correctly with my RussEnglinh.
Despite the mess causing by the sanding\putty process, you will for sure, benefit, from a good foundation for the final layer of planking, and then be rewarded with beautiful hull lines. This is why the double-planking method is great. Don't rush, it may take the extra day or two of your planning, but...I suspect the final planking material is much thinner, and you will not have a lot of material to sand, this is why this is an important task to take care of now. Use the strip to check along the entire hull, and you have to satisfy and accept the work (not us).
good luck...
Great idea. I wonder if one could make a smaller version of the sander? It wouldn't work as well on smaller hulls or around tight curves such as near the keel at the stern.
Then I have to use the vibrating sander and old fashioned sand paper to reach some areas. I suppose you could cut the sander strip down and attach it to something smaller. Maybe a baseball to make it round?
DobreSmall hint while you are shaping the hull. Have a long strip of wood, lay one end of it at the bow (close to the Stem) and push it to the hull, another end of the strip will touch the Stern part of the hull. Ideally, you shouldn't observe any gaps\bumps. It should form a smooth and even transition line.
If you see the bumps, there you have to sand to make it even, contrary if you see gaps you need to fill them with either wood pieces or putty (depends how deep is the gap. A good putty for this kind of job, is a mix of PVA glue and sanding dust.
Hope I explained it correctly with my RussEnglinh.
...it is Ukrainian, but the same meaning