Limitation of the drilling depth

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Aug 31, 2019
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Rüdesheim am Rhein, Germany
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For gluying in eyebolts and rings, the planking sometimes only needs to be pre-drilled from one side.

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Drilling through the entire side of the ship should be avoid, otherwise a hole will also be made on the opposite side.

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When drilling in areas that cannot be seen later, it is possble to drill through.

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Stationary machines usually have a drilling depth indicator.

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For hand-held drills, I mark the drilling depth on the cutters or drills with a black marker. The marker is difficult to see when drilling. Here in the example drilling depth 2 mm. Are there other possibilities?

Have a nice weekend
Thomas
 
Last edited:
For hand-held drills, I mark the drilling depth on the cutters or drills with a black marker. The marker is difficult to see when drilling. Here in the example drilling depth 2 mm. Are there other possibilities?
Excellent craftsmanship and good technology use. Yes, there are other possibilities. I use masking tape around the drill bit, it is also working as a stopper.
 
View attachment 275034
For gluying in eyebolts and rings, the planking sometimes only needs to be pre-drilled from one side.

View attachment 275035
Drilling through the entire side of the ship should be avoid, otherwise a hole will also be made on the opposite side.

View attachment 275036
When drilling in areas that cannot be seen later, it is possble to drill through.

View attachment 275037
Stationary machines usually have a drilling depth indicator.

View attachment 275038
For hand-held drills, I mark the drilling depth on the cutters or drills with a black marker. The marker is difficult to see when drilling. Here in the example drilling depth 2 mm. Are there other possibilities?

Have a nice weekend
Thomas
Good question !!!!
I am usually hope and pray
Which type of drill you are showing us in the last photo?
 
Hi Uwe!

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The drill is a 25 year old Proxxon.

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Only drills up to 1,1 mm fit in the hand drill at the bottom left of the picture. The small 0,3 and 0,4 mm drill bits break off easily, so I take reinforced drill bits with thick shanks for the Proxxon.

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On the left, milling bits from Busch 0,3 to 1,4 mm, on the right drill bits from Meisinger 0,5 mm.

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If drilling is not deep, the milling bits from Busch work great. They also drill holes in brass for ruder hinges and others. And they do not break off!

The "La Belle" has a measurement of 4 mm at the thinnest point when double planked. My ship's boat with single planking has just 1,5 mm. Bernard Frölich in his book "The art of ship modeling" recommends brass wire nailing at ship's boats to only a few modelers because it is so delicate.

Kind regards
Thomas
 
Masking Tape here too. I sometimes use white paint, make sure you let the paint dry before using ha ha ha.
 
Let me add my 2 cents to this topic. When I was building my Trumpeter Missouri (plastic) the kit came with drilling templates for all of the ladder rungs that had to be installed. Each rung required two holes to mount the rung. I would tape the template to the side of the appropriate plastic piece and then drill the holes using a slow speed on a dremel. These are very small holes, in the range of 0.3 or 0.4 mm. In the process of drilling, I snapped the drill, leaving me a very short piece of the drill in the dremel. I continued to use that stub until i had all the holes drilled and did not snap the stub again. Moral of the story, if you are drilling a hole that is 0.3mm deep, you only need 0.3mm of drill sticking out of the chuck. Happy Modeling.
 
Here is another perspective…especially for the bulwarks. I often drill straight through the bulwark. Then I use a long shaft eye bolt, ring bolt, or hook that will pass through and out the side of the bulwark. I snip off the ends and sand or file flat to the planking. This leaves the end of the part visible simulating a bolt through the planking for the attachment of the eye or ring bolts. Don’t know if this a right or wrong thing but it looks good and solves the depth problem of drilling holes for eye bolts, ring bolts and other such accessories.
 
View attachment 275034
For gluying in eyebolts and rings, the planking sometimes only needs to be pre-drilled from one side.

View attachment 275035
Drilling through the entire side of the ship should be avoid, otherwise a hole will also be made on the opposite side.

View attachment 275036
When drilling in areas that cannot be seen later, it is possble to drill through.

View attachment 275037
Stationary machines usually have a drilling depth indicator.

View attachment 275038
For hand-held drills, I mark the drilling depth on the cutters or drills with a black marker. The marker is difficult to see when drilling. Here in the example drilling depth 2 mm. Are there other possibilities?

Have a nice weekend
Thomas
Moin, Thomas, interesting gun barrel. What scale is that and where can you get it? Thanks,
 
Hi Mash!

The gun barrels were a special production of the kit manufacturer of the La Belle by "CAF Model". In the kit were smooth gun barells Scale 1:48. The manufacturer sent me his last decorated gun barells on request.

Best regards
Thomas

@CAFmodel is also a member here in our forum, so you can send him a PM and ask for an offer....
 
@CAFmodel is also a member here in our forum, so you can send him a PM and ask for an offer....
Moin, Uwe, it's a little "more complicated". My hand has healed, I can go back to work. I would like to replace the unholy and false guns of the Cazador with historically correct ones. This also includes the coats of arms and other decorations, not to mention dolphins. I don't always have to reinvent the wheel, 1:60 is difficult. So I will have to pour resin. Such a gun could be seen here. Thanks for the help.
Hi Mash!

The gun barrels were a special production of the kit manufacturer of the La Belle by "CAF Model". In the kit were smooth gun barells Scale 1:48. The manufacturer sent me his last decorated gun barells on request.

Best regards
Thomas
Moin, Thomas, thank you for the information. The connections below with Uwe.
 
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