OK NOW FINALLY STARTED THIS BUILD, I will try not to be so long winded on this just show pictures, changes that i have made and more to come, changed , the keel to PADUCK beautiful wood bit oh so messy, really messy but worth it, i am not going to do the keel installation now as shown in the instructions and by TAKAM in his log, reasons latter false keel rabbit cut (MY WAY, MAYBE NOT THE CORRECT WAY BUT MY WAY) also using my small building slip for bulkhead installation with temporary modifications to false keel, plan to spile the planking using paduck on the upper portion and may western red cader, or beech on the lower portion, NJOW FOR THE HELP PORTION NEED TO FIND THE WAY TO DO T%HE GARBOARD PLANK always have problems there this time i hope not with some help from SOS MEMBERS, many years ago there was given i do not remember by who a way to ndo the garboard with strip of masking tape but do not remember the details, now pictures
Great start, Don! You already glue the bulheads\frames. As far as I understand, those bulkheads have a laser-cut line for easy removal once fully planked. Then those bulkheads become frames. What timber\playwood those bulkheads\frames made of?
HI ALL, THANKS WILL BE SHOWING MORE PROGRESS INCLUDING THE HEAVY DUTY SURGICAL TAPE THAT I WILL USE FOR SPILING THE BULKHEADS, JIM THIS IS A MAIN COMPLAINT THAT I HAVE WITH THE NEW AND GREATLY IMPROVED M/S KITS THE WOOD IS A VERY, VERY AND I MEAN VERY SOFT BASSWOOD YOU CAN DENT IT WITH EASE, SO I REPLACE ALL POSSIBLE MATERIALS FOR PLANKING I AM USING WESTERN RED CEDAR FOR LOWER PORTION AND SOME PADUCK FOR UPPER PLANKING HAVE NOT DECIDED ON YET SEE WHAT I HAVE, MUCH MATERIALS FROM DAVE (LUMBERYARD) TRYING TO FIND A SOLUTION TO MY OLD PROBLEM SINCE I STARTED USING OIL EXCLUSIVLY AT THE TURN OF THE B=ILGE THE PLANKS START HAVING GAPS I USED TO USE DILUTED WHITE GLUE AND SAWDUST AND WHEN OIL APPLIED IT WAS JUST SUPER UGLY SO HERE IS ONE SIDE FOR THE GARBOARD PLANK
HI JIM, THE BULKHEADS ARE MADE LIKE AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM YOU HAVE TO HAND SAW A LITTLE BIT THEN THEY ARE ALREAD CUT WHEN YOU CT THE CENTER JUST MOVE IT BACK AND FORTH AND THEY COME LOOSE (HOPEFULLY LOL) GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
HI ALL PROGRESS IS SLOW BUT STEADY TAKING A LOT OF CARE WITH BOTH THE SHYEER PLANK AND GARBOARD PLANK, NEED HELP WITH THE GARBOARD PLANK AS I HAVE ONE SIDE DRY FITTED AND I THINK IT RIDES TO HIGH IN THE STERN AREA, I THINK WHERE Y7OU SEE THE ARROW WOULD BE BETTER, COMMENTS PLEASE
Yes for me it is too high.I always try to get the base of the Garboard to follow the Rabbet line.Planking with strip,this means severe edge bending and clamping.If you are spiling,you should have a pronounced curve in the plank.Depending on the bow profile,a spiled garboard is curved at both ends and only straight around Deadflat.The tape method never worked for me,I use strips of card then when I get close make one in scrap timber.When I am fully happy,I then commit to the actual timber.I always leave the outside a good few mm oversize as well.This gives me some room to adjust if needed then I will reduce the plank to final width.
THANK YOU NIGEL, THE TAPE METHOD USING MASKING TAPE DID NOT WORK FOR ME EITHER, THEN THOUGHT OF USING HEAVY DUTY SURGICAL TAPE AND IT WORKED OUT TO WHERE I CAN LIVE WITH IT, MAY BE TAKE DOWN ABOUT 3 OR 4 MM OR SHOULD I GO MORE, BTW THE SURGICAL TAPE WORKS ALSO FOR SPILING AS IT TAKES A GOOD PENCIL MARK, I AM GOING TO ORDER SOME 1 INCH HEAVY DUTY SURGICAL TAPE EASIER TO WORK WITH ON THE BULKHEADS, THE EDGE BENDING WORKED OUT AS I AM USING WESTERN RED CEDAR ON THE LOWER STRAKS AND PADUCK ON THE UPPER, AS ALWAYS THANS GREATLY. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE DON
HI ALL DOING A LITTLE WORK ON THIS SMALL BUILD A LOT OF KIT BASHING BESIDES MATERIALS DID NOT LIKE THE METHOD THAT WAS USED FOR THE HULL PLANKING, DECIDED TO USE THE SPILING METHOD, HAVE NOT DONE POB IN QUITE SOME TIME THANKS TO DAVE STEVENS I AM A POF PERSON DOW, BUT THOUGHT I WOUL D DO A LITTLE EXPERIMENTING, TO ME JUST MY OPION THIS GIVES A MODELER THE BEST RESULTS IN PLANKING IF DONE CORRECTLY THE PICTURES WILL EXPLAIN THE PLANK THAT I AM USING IS JUST A PIECE OF BASSWOOD TO SEE HOW IT WORKE IT IS DRY FITTED ON THE MODEL WILL SHOW THAT TOMORROW, THIS IS JUST PREPERATION
HERE IS THE SPILED PLANK THIS IS A SAMPLE DRY FITTED I THINK IT WORKS WELL, NOW MAKING SPILING CARDS KNOW NEED TO DO EVERY STATION BUT 3 FRAMES AT THE BOW AND STEM NEED TO HAVE SPILING CARDS DONE AND 2 FRAMES AT THE STERN, SINCE THE HULL IS NOT TO BIG NO NEED FOR SPILLING BATTENS
HI ALL TO CONTINUE, I AM SHOWING YOU SPILING CARDS FOR THE VARIOUS STATIONS, ON THIS BUILD THERE IS VERY LITTLE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STATIONS ALL AT 1/4 INCH, EXCEPT AT STATION G, H, AND STEM, YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFERECE ON THE CARD ALL USING 8 PIECES, NOW MY QUESTION HAVE GLUED THE GARBOARD PLANK ON AND DRY FITTING BROAD STRAKE HAVING A PROBLEM NEARING THE BOW JUST DO NOT KNOW HOW TO GET THE END INTO THE RABBITT
MORE SIZE OF PLANK ON SPILING, I THINK I FOUD MY SOLUTION TO THE BROAD STRAKE ( DO NOT KNOW WHY I DID NOT THINK OF IT BEFORE) I SPILED THE BROAD STRAKE TO THE GARBOARD STRAKE SEE PICTURES FOR CLARITY, NOW TO FIGURE OUT THE FINSISH
In this instance I would get the shape as close a fit to the garboard as possible then cut the outer edge of the plank but leaving it a couple of mm wide.I would then use my plank bender(Amati soldering Iron type) to shape the curl and twist on the bow end.This will enable you to further refine the fit up
Hi Don. Following along with your build. I tried one of these kits a couple years ago and gave up because the material and structure was just too flimsy and frustrating. What I thought was an easy build became more difficult than a full-sized ship model. I think you are already further along than I got. It will be interesting to see what happens when it comes time to punch out those bulkheads on the inside.
HI MIKE YOU ARE SO RIGHT I HAVE BASHED THIS A WHOLKE LOT, REPLACED MOST OF THE LUMBER, AND MODIFIED THE PLANS, M/S MATERIALS ARE NOT THE BEST TO SOFT EASY TO BREAK, USING A MIX OF WESTERN RED CEDAR AND YELLOW HEART SPILEING THE PLANKS THE RED CEDAR IS OK FOR BENDING AND TWISTING, IT TOOK ME TO THE 3RD PLANK TO GET THE SPILING CORRECT BELIEVE IT OR NOT ONE OF THE SPILEING PROBLEMS IS A GOOD COMPASS HAVE ORDERED ONE, IT IS STILL FASTER AND BETTER THEN THE DOUBLE PLANKED POB BUILDS, I CAN NOT WORK WITH THE THIN VEENERS, BTW I HAVE ALREADY SPENT AS MUCH MONEY AS THE KIT COSTS, WILL POST PICTURES TONIGHT, INTERESTED IN COMMENTS AND CRITISIMS OF THE SPILEING METHOD. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
OK ALL, NEED HELP BADLY, THINGS WERE BGOING PRETTY GOOD FOR THE PLANK SHEER AND THE FIRST 3 PLANKS, THEN THE TURN OF THE BILGE, OH, OH, NOT DISASTER BUT CLOSE SPENT ALMOST 4 DAYS TRYING DIFFERENT MEANS AND WAYS BAD, VERY BAD, IF I GOT THE BOW FITTED THE STERN WAS TERRIBLE AND REVERSE, NOT TO MENTION WASTED MATERIAL, STOPPED FOR ABOUT 2 DAYS AND DID THE CAP RAILS AND OTHER DETAILS, JUST TO CLEAR MY MIND, TODAY TRIED AGAIN, CAME UP WITH THIS, DO NOT KNOW WHY OR HOW, BUT SEEMED LIKE I HAVE IT PRETTY CLOSE, WILL FIND SOME OLD TIMBER LYING AROUND AND DO A SAMPLE CAN SOME ONE HELP, MIKE SHANKS WAS CORRECT AS USUAL, THIS IS NOT A EASY BUILD, THOUGHT IT WOULD BE AS AV FILLER WAITING ON OTHERS, IT IS NOT REPEAT NOT AN EASY BUILD BY ANY MEANS, NOW I KNOW WHY THE INSTRUCTIONS AND THE KIT SUPPLYED MATERIALS ARE SUCH SHORT LENGTHS, SO FAR IF I CAN GET THE REST OF THE PLANKING DONE ONLY 2 MORE OF THE TOP PLANKS TO GO, I WOULD BE SATIS FIED AS THIS I9S BETTER THEN WHAT THE INSTRUCTION SHOW. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE DON
Including the garboard, isn't the straight edge of the planks supposed to be closer to the gunwales. The taper should be shaped on the keel side of the planks. If not you are going top end up with "weird shape planks" and will have major trouble as you plank up towards the top (when the vessel is right side up).