Tutorial Making the cannon trucks (wheels) using Proxxon MF70

Jimsky

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Joined
Nov 3, 2018
Messages
12,056
Points
938

Location
Brooklyn, New York USA
You heard it right, folks!! I am continuing the mini tutorials to fabricate parts utilizing the Proxon mill MF70. If you have not had a chance to read my previous articles, please take a look, you may find them useful for your next project. But...if you have other useful way\s of utilizing your mill, please don't be shy and make a post of yours.

Below, you will find the link where we discuss how to make most of your Proxxon MF70 by upgrading various parts with parts available online. One of the biggest upgrades we discuss is changing the spindle to utilize the ER11 collet system. This upgrade opens the possibility of using endmills of larger diameters (like 4mm, 5mm)


Here we discuss the making of gratings for your scale models, yet another way of utilizing your Proxxon mill.


Greetings everyone! Today, we will use the Proxxon mill and carbide woodturning tool to make cannon wheels or what they are officially called by shipwrights - trucks. Yes...I can predict, that most of you, reading this, will say: "again"??? How many times have we discussed making those? There shouldn't be a big deal to slice the dowels with the required diameter and drill a hole. You would probably be right, there are many various methods to make cannon trucks. Some of them don't require sophisticated tooling, and why should they? It is just a wheel, as simple as that. However, some of us would like to make that simple wheel from our timber and say... perfect round (not oval) or precise. Here comes the lathe to rescue, where you can turn your wood dowel, from the material you'd like, and the size you need for your scale. But how nay of us have the lathe? On one of my tutorials to make cannon tracks, I converted the Proxxon drill press stand, moto tool, and X\Y table into a lathe, specifically making the cannon tracks of your choice.


Today, I will extend this idea, and utilize MF70 to make tracks for the cannon. Why..., and why not? It is fun, and I found this way is more precise. So let's begin. I don't have a lathe (but still want one), and I don't have dowels of pear\boxwood of suitable diameter so I can slice for the wheels. For my project, a 24lb cannon, on the scale of 1:72, will require a 5.10 mm diameter, and 2.00mm in thickness cannon trucks. I have a 2,00 mm sheet of Pear and Boxwood. Good enough to start with. At a minimum waste, I will use a 6.0mm x 6.0mm square for my wheel blanks. I cut the squares on the table saw first.

600_2946.jpg 600_2947.jpg

The next step is to drill the hole. I could use my mill for this operation, but I have a drill press discussed above. I use a 1.7mm drill bit to drill the hole. The size of this hole will be dictated by the diameter of the mandrel screw and not the diameter of the axletree. This is critical, the screw must go tight in the drilled hole. Also, the hole must be drilled as close to the center as possible. It is advisable to make a simple jig (similar to mine) where all the holes drilled will be centered the same.

600_2960.jpg 600_2961.jpg

The next step is to set up the mill. You will need the woodturning cutter typically seen on the modern turning gauges. I found a good deal buying the set on AliExpress with free shipping.

1652575865669.png 1652575894058.png


On the piece of aluminum, I threaded the hole to screw the cutter. BTW, the screws are included in the set. Please note how the cutter is mounted (angeled) in the vise.

IMG_2369.JPEG IMG_2370.JPEG IMG_2371.JPEG

Now, I will get three blanks, and attach them the same way you would normally attach the cutting disks. BTW, the number of blanks you can process at once will be depended on the length of your mandrel screw. I can only put 3 blanks.

600_2964.jpg

Now we are ready to turn those square blanks into actual trucks. Place the cutter below the blanks (as shown below image). That is because we will process the blanks from the bottom all the way up. This is an important point: if you will use an opposite direction e.g. cut the blanks from top to bottom you will burn the wood only and will get disappointed.
Because I need a 5.10mm diameter, and I have a 6.0 x 6.0mm square, the cutter is poisoned to the exact size required, and I will use a single path. This was determined by the method of trial and measuring after each try. When the desired size has been reached, I set the limb of the Y axis to '0'. If you require to remove more wood, I recommend using a few or more passes, removing less wood from a single pass. This will ensure a safe & clean cut.

600_2965.jpg

Ready? Turn the mill 'ON' and... that's correct, slowly move the milling head all way UP until you reached the end. That's it, folks! That's really it!

600_2967.jpg

600_2969.jpg

When finished, remove from a mandrel and you have beautifully 'milled' wheels (trucks). Process the same way all the blanks. The size may vary between 5.12mm ~ and 5.15mm fully acceptable for my project.

600_2974.jpg

Here are ready trucks from boxwood

600_2976.jpg

...and here are the Pear
600_2956.jpg

Well, this is yet another way of making trucks for your scale model. With this method (assuming you have any milling machine) you can make any size required for your scale and use your timber and don't depend on the available dowels stock. I hope you like it, it is not that difficult. Next time, show your way of making cannon trucks don't be shy.
 
Jim, this is excellent. You are using the mill like a lathe with the cutting tool in the vise - I would have not thought I that. This is great machining my friend !!!
You are a natural machinist - keep it up.
 
Back
Top