Tutorial Making the gratings using Proxxon MF70

Jimsky

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Gratings consist of longitudinal and transverse rails, reinforced in the frame. They were used on sailing ships for ventilation and lighting of the lower decks and could be in the form of removable hatch covers or fragments of the deck flooring. Also, by the type of gratings, platforms of mars, latrines, transitional bridges, and fish boats were made, so the modeler often has to deal with the manufacture of gratings for his models.

Greetings folks. Just as other features of models were simplified, so was the manufacturer of gratings. There are more than several methods of making your gratings for the model. Until well into the eighteenth century, with very few exceptions, the gratings were simulated by piercing squared holes in solid wood. The methods chosen by the modeler depend on many factors. I would say the common are the scale and equipment you own. In many years of my modeling life, I have adapted a method using a table saw and achieved very good results. However, I always wanted to try other methods to find out the benefits there. Since I recently modify my Proxxon MF70 a decision was made to try out the method of utilizing the mill. BTW, this method is not new and don't develop by me. SOS has several posts, by many of our members, describing this method in great detail. I encourage you to check them out.

Using the table saw is a great method of simulating gratings for larger-scale models. Making grating for smaller scales requires slot-saw smaller thicknesses which is hard to find. Today, I will make two sample gratings, they are not specific to any of my models or scales. The first one will be 0.90mm x 0.90mm cell, another one 1.50mm x 1.50mm cell. I used some of my scrap wood suitable for this purpose and strips stock I milled for treenails a way back. To mill the grooves I have used 0.9mm and 1.5mm endmills purchased on AliExpress, by company BB (highly recommend this brand and their endmills)

600_2915.jpg 600_2918.jpg

The first step is to even the surface. Here comes in handy my newest ER11 system. I use a 7.0mm endmill, Yea... fewer moves. Once the surface is even, I use a 0.9mm endmill to cut the 'Y' axis groves. Make a note, that those groves should be as twice deep as the 'X-axis groves. This will ensure the 'hollow' appearance of the cell.

600_2927.jpg

The 'Y-axis groves were milled first, using 0.9mm and 1.5mm for each grating blank. I use the full deep required and a single path for each grove.

600_2901.jpg600_2929.jpg

The X-axis groves next. Don't plunge the mill to the entire deep of the required grove, you are risky to nock the next cell out. I suggest using two or three passes (per grove) gradually moving the Z-axis until you reached the desired depth.
600_2902.jpg 600_2932.jpg

I just realize that didn't take photos of the process of gluing the X-axis planks. This shouldn't be too difficult and requires just a drop of PVA glue (in each cell) and firmly pressing down the planks. Once dried, you have similar to this.
600_2909.jpg600_2908.jpg

Using the large size mill, I made the surface even.
600_2935.jpg

Bolts imitating by drilling holes using 0.2mm. I think, it is a bit oversized but I don't have a 0.1mm drill bit ;)

600_2943.jpg 600_2937.jpg

One coat of Tung oil finished both examples. Just for the sake of relative size, I use the figure of a 1:72 scale. The first images are gratings 1.5mm x 1.5mm cell

600_2941.jpg 600_2939.jpg

Here are the images of the grating sample with cell 0.9mm x 0.9mm
600_2921.jpg 600_2924.jpg

Untitled-1.png

I am really pleased with both examples and will definitely use the mill method in my future builds. How about you? Do you like it?
 
Gratings consist of longitudinal and transverse rails, reinforced in the frame. They were used on sailing ships for ventilation and lighting of the lower decks and could be in the form of removable hatch covers or fragments of the deck flooring. Also, by the type of gratings, platforms of mars, latrines, transitional bridges, and fish boats were made, so the modeler often has to deal with the manufacture of gratings for his models.

Greetings folks. Just as other features of models were simplified, so was the manufacturer of gratings. There are more than several methods of making your gratings for the model. Until well into the eighteenth century, with very few exceptions, the gratings were simulated by piercing squared holes in solid wood. The methods chosen by the modeler depend on many factors. I would say the common are the scale and equipment you own. In many years of my modeling life, I have adapted a method using a table saw and achieved very good results. However, I always wanted to try other methods to find out the benefits there. Since I recently modify my Proxxon MF70 a decision was made to try out the method of utilizing the mill. BTW, this method is not new and don't develop by me. SOS has several posts, by many of our members, describing this method in great detail. I encourage you to check them out.

Using the table saw is a great method of simulating gratings for larger-scale models. Making grating for smaller scales requires slot-saw smaller thicknesses which is hard to find. Today, I will make two sample gratings, they are not specific to any of my models or scales. The first one will be 0.90mm x 0.90mm cell, another one 1.50mm x 1.50mm cell. I used some of my scrap wood suitable for this purpose and strips stock I milled for treenails a way back. To mill the grooves I have used 0.9mm and 1.5mm endmills purchased on AliExpress, by company BB (highly recommend this brand and their endmills)

View attachment 302591 View attachment 302592

The first step is to even the surface. Here comes in handy my newest ER11 system. I use a 7.0mm endmill, Yea... fewer moves. Once the surface is even, I use a 0.9mm endmill to cut the 'Y' axis groves. Make a note, that those groves should be as twice deep as the 'X-axis groves. This will ensure the 'hollow' appearance of the cell.

View attachment 302593

The 'Y-axis groves were milled first, using 0.9mm and 1.5mm for each grating blank. I use the full deep required and a single path for each grove.

View attachment 302594View attachment 302595

The X-axis groves next. Don't plunge the mill to the entire deep of the required grove, you are risky to nock the next cell out. I suggest using two or three passes (per grove) gradually moving the Z-axis until you reached the desired depth.
View attachment 302596 View attachment 302597

I just realize that didn't take photos of the process of gluing the X-axis planks. This shouldn't be too difficult and requires just a drop of PVA glue (in each cell) and firmly pressing down the planks. Once dried, you have similar to this.
View attachment 302598View attachment 302599

Using the large size mill, I made the surface even.
View attachment 302604

Bolts imitating by drilling holes using 0.2mm. I think, it is a bit oversized but I don't have a 0.1mm drill bit ;)

View attachment 302600 View attachment 302601

One coat of Tung oil finished both examples. Just for the sake of relative size, I use the figure of a 1:72 scale. The first images are gratings 1.5mm x 1.5mm cell

View attachment 302605 View attachment 302606

Here are the images of the grating sample with cell 0.9mm x 0.9mm
View attachment 302607 View attachment 302608

View attachment 302609

I am really pleased with both examples and will definitely use the mill method in my future builds. How about you? Do you like it?
They look great Jim, very detailed and well executed
Best regards John
 
Gratings consist of longitudinal and transverse rails, reinforced in the frame. They were used on sailing ships for ventilation and lighting of the lower decks and could be in the form of removable hatch covers or fragments of the deck flooring. Also, by the type of gratings, platforms of mars, latrines, transitional bridges, and fish boats were made, so the modeler often has to deal with the manufacture of gratings for his models.

Greetings folks. Just as other features of models were simplified, so was the manufacturer of gratings. There are more than several methods of making your gratings for the model. Until well into the eighteenth century, with very few exceptions, the gratings were simulated by piercing squared holes in solid wood. The methods chosen by the modeler depend on many factors. I would say the common are the scale and equipment you own. In many years of my modeling life, I have adapted a method using a table saw and achieved very good results. However, I always wanted to try other methods to find out the benefits there. Since I recently modify my Proxxon MF70 a decision was made to try out the method of utilizing the mill. BTW, this method is not new and don't develop by me. SOS has several posts, by many of our members, describing this method in great detail. I encourage you to check them out.

Using the table saw is a great method of simulating gratings for larger-scale models. Making grating for smaller scales requires slot-saw smaller thicknesses which is hard to find. Today, I will make two sample gratings, they are not specific to any of my models or scales. The first one will be 0.90mm x 0.90mm cell, another one 1.50mm x 1.50mm cell. I used some of my scrap wood suitable for this purpose and strips stock I milled for treenails a way back. To mill the grooves I have used 0.9mm and 1.5mm endmills purchased on AliExpress, by company BB (highly recommend this brand and their endmills)

View attachment 302591 View attachment 302592

The first step is to even the surface. Here comes in handy my newest ER11 system. I use a 7.0mm endmill, Yea... fewer moves. Once the surface is even, I use a 0.9mm endmill to cut the 'Y' axis groves. Make a note, that those groves should be as twice deep as the 'X-axis groves. This will ensure the 'hollow' appearance of the cell.

View attachment 302593

The 'Y-axis groves were milled first, using 0.9mm and 1.5mm for each grating blank. I use the full deep required and a single path for each grove.

View attachment 302594View attachment 302595

The X-axis groves next. Don't plunge the mill to the entire deep of the required grove, you are risky to nock the next cell out. I suggest using two or three passes (per grove) gradually moving the Z-axis until you reached the desired depth.
View attachment 302596 View attachment 302597

I just realize that didn't take photos of the process of gluing the X-axis planks. This shouldn't be too difficult and requires just a drop of PVA glue (in each cell) and firmly pressing down the planks. Once dried, you have similar to this.
View attachment 302598View attachment 302599

Using the large size mill, I made the surface even.
View attachment 302604

Bolts imitating by drilling holes using 0.2mm. I think, it is a bit oversized but I don't have a 0.1mm drill bit ;)

View attachment 302600 View attachment 302601

One coat of Tung oil finished both examples. Just for the sake of relative size, I use the figure of a 1:72 scale. The first images are gratings 1.5mm x 1.5mm cell

View attachment 302605 View attachment 302606

Here are the images of the grating sample with cell 0.9mm x 0.9mm
View attachment 302607 View attachment 302608

View attachment 302609

I am really pleased with both examples and will definitely use the mill method in my future builds. How about you? Do you like it?
Great resalt and lesson Jim.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Gratings consist of longitudinal and transverse rails, reinforced in the frame. They were used on sailing ships for ventilation and lighting of the lower decks and could be in the form of removable hatch covers or fragments of the deck flooring. Also, by the type of gratings, platforms of mars, latrines, transitional bridges, and fish boats were made, so the modeler often has to deal with the manufacture of gratings for his models.

Greetings folks. Just as other features of models were simplified, so was the manufacturer of gratings. There are more than several methods of making your gratings for the model. Until well into the eighteenth century, with very few exceptions, the gratings were simulated by piercing squared holes in solid wood. The methods chosen by the modeler depend on many factors. I would say the common are the scale and equipment you own. In many years of my modeling life, I have adapted a method using a table saw and achieved very good results. However, I always wanted to try other methods to find out the benefits there. Since I recently modify my Proxxon MF70 a decision was made to try out the method of utilizing the mill. BTW, this method is not new and don't develop by me. SOS has several posts, by many of our members, describing this method in great detail. I encourage you to check them out.

Using the table saw is a great method of simulating gratings for larger-scale models. Making grating for smaller scales requires slot-saw smaller thicknesses which is hard to find. Today, I will make two sample gratings, they are not specific to any of my models or scales. The first one will be 0.90mm x 0.90mm cell, another one 1.50mm x 1.50mm cell. I used some of my scrap wood suitable for this purpose and strips stock I milled for treenails a way back. To mill the grooves I have used 0.9mm and 1.5mm endmills purchased on AliExpress, by company BB (highly recommend this brand and their endmills)

View attachment 302591 View attachment 302592

The first step is to even the surface. Here comes in handy my newest ER11 system. I use a 7.0mm endmill, Yea... fewer moves. Once the surface is even, I use a 0.9mm endmill to cut the 'Y' axis groves. Make a note, that those groves should be as twice deep as the 'X-axis groves. This will ensure the 'hollow' appearance of the cell.

View attachment 302593

The 'Y-axis groves were milled first, using 0.9mm and 1.5mm for each grating blank. I use the full deep required and a single path for each grove.

View attachment 302594View attachment 302595

The X-axis groves next. Don't plunge the mill to the entire deep of the required grove, you are risky to nock the next cell out. I suggest using two or three passes (per grove) gradually moving the Z-axis until you reached the desired depth.
View attachment 302596 View attachment 302597

I just realize that didn't take photos of the process of gluing the X-axis planks. This shouldn't be too difficult and requires just a drop of PVA glue (in each cell) and firmly pressing down the planks. Once dried, you have similar to this.
View attachment 302598View attachment 302599

Using the large size mill, I made the surface even.
View attachment 302604

Bolts imitating by drilling holes using 0.2mm. I think, it is a bit oversized but I don't have a 0.1mm drill bit ;)

View attachment 302600 View attachment 302601

One coat of Tung oil finished both examples. Just for the sake of relative size, I use the figure of a 1:72 scale. The first images are gratings 1.5mm x 1.5mm cell

View attachment 302605 View attachment 302606

Here are the images of the grating sample with cell 0.9mm x 0.9mm
View attachment 302607 View attachment 302608

View attachment 302609

I am really pleased with both examples and will definitely use the mill method in my future builds. How about you? Do you like it?
Love it Jim. This is what I'm trying to produce with my Dremel etc etc. Now I will go back to my drill press vice mounted on the X-Y table rather than clamping the timber on a board.

Excellent timing for your post. I'll be making more over the nest few days so I will post the results on my Medea log.
 
Jimsky, thank you for teaching us this method !!! I have a question.

If I understood your pictures, the bottom is still solid wood ?
In other words, can you see through those gratings ?

This is much easier than using the table saw, and less dangerous :)

Thanks !!!!
Daniel
 
Love it Jim. This is what I'm trying to produce with my Dremel etc etc. Now I will go back to my drill press vice mounted on the X-Y table rather than clamping the timber on a board.

Excellent timing for your post. I'll be making more over the nest few days so I will post the results on my Medea log.
Glad this post comes on time and in handy, Ian, I am looking forward to your post and seeing your gratings. Technically speaking vise will be handy only when processing smaller parts, because it will be difficult to clamp down. In order to achieve precision cuts, the X, and Y coordinate table must travel without noticeable tolerance. A simple test will do it: clamp a square scrap wood to a table using the square tool, so it is 90 degrees to the X and Y-axis. Make two cuts from each side X direction and Y direction and measure from each end sides. If you have reading close to the same, you have no tolerance. If readings are way different you will need to adjust the X\Y table with small set screws and repeat the test. (sorry my technical English needs improvements). Let me know if you understand what I mean to say. ;)
 
If I understood your pictures, the bottom is still solid wood ?
Yes, the bottom is solid wood. Remember, we are making the cell less than 1.00mm (0.90mm), it will be difficult to see thru such a small cell. Specifically, the Y-axis grove (the first we make) is milled twice deeper than the X-axis groves. This will ensure the depth of the cell. However, if you would like to make the cell see-thru, you can mill first the Y-axis groves and then slice strips on the table saw and assemble. This definitely adds complexity, IMHO. You would need to make a jig to hold the strips while gluing them together.
 
Glad this post comes on time and in handy, Ian, I am looking forward to your post and seeing your gratings. Technically speaking vise will be handy only when processing smaller parts, because it will be difficult to clamp down. In order to achieve precision cuts, the X, and Y coordinate table must travel without noticeable tolerance. A simple test will do it: clamp a square scrap wood to a table using the square tool, so it is 90 degrees to the X and Y-axis. Make two cuts from each side X direction and Y direction and measure from each end sides. If you have reading close to the same, you have no tolerance. If readings are way different you will need to adjust the X\Y table with small set screws and repeat the test. (sorry my technical English needs improvements). Let me know if you understand what I mean to say. ;)
Understood. My drill press vise bolts onto the X-Y table but not in any position where I can use it for this job. I'm now using these aluminium clamps which I made up and they work really well. The important thing is to square up the timber and the X-Y axis as you said. Thank you again for your help.

IMG_20220413_122143336.jpg
IMG_20220413_122937147.jpg
 
Yes, the bottom is solid wood. Remember, we are making the cell less than 1.00mm (0.90mm), it will be difficult to see thru such a small cell. Specifically, the Y-axis grove (the first we make) is milled twice deeper than the X-axis groves. This will ensure the depth of the cell. However, if you would like to make the cell see-thru, you can mill first the Y-axis groves and then slice strips on the table saw and assemble. This definitely adds complexity, IMHO. You would need to make a jig to hold the strips while gluing them together.
Or finalize the grating like made it - turn it by 180° upside down - fix it with double sided tape and mill the surface down so that the holes are free.
You can also sand it , but it takes longer...

BTW: very good tutorial - and very good reult - BRAVO my friend :cool:
 
Gratings consist of longitudinal and transverse rails, reinforced in the frame. They were used on sailing ships for ventilation and lighting of the lower decks and could be in the form of removable hatch covers or fragments of the deck flooring. Also, by the type of gratings, platforms of mars, latrines, transitional bridges, and fish boats were made, so the modeler often has to deal with the manufacture of gratings for his models.

Greetings folks. Just as other features of models were simplified, so was the manufacturer of gratings. There are more than several methods of making your gratings for the model. Until well into the eighteenth century, with very few exceptions, the gratings were simulated by piercing squared holes in solid wood. The methods chosen by the modeler depend on many factors. I would say the common are the scale and equipment you own. In many years of my modeling life, I have adapted a method using a table saw and achieved very good results. However, I always wanted to try other methods to find out the benefits there. Since I recently modify my Proxxon MF70 a decision was made to try out the method of utilizing the mill. BTW, this method is not new and don't develop by me. SOS has several posts, by many of our members, describing this method in great detail. I encourage you to check them out.

Using the table saw is a great method of simulating gratings for larger-scale models. Making grating for smaller scales requires slot-saw smaller thicknesses which is hard to find. Today, I will make two sample gratings, they are not specific to any of my models or scales. The first one will be 0.90mm x 0.90mm cell, another one 1.50mm x 1.50mm cell. I used some of my scrap wood suitable for this purpose and strips stock I milled for treenails a way back. To mill the grooves I have used 0.9mm and 1.5mm endmills purchased on AliExpress, by company BB (highly recommend this brand and their endmills)

View attachment 302591 View attachment 302592

The first step is to even the surface. Here comes in handy my newest ER11 system. I use a 7.0mm endmill, Yea... fewer moves. Once the surface is even, I use a 0.9mm endmill to cut the 'Y' axis groves. Make a note, that those groves should be as twice deep as the 'X-axis groves. This will ensure the 'hollow' appearance of the cell.

View attachment 302593

The 'Y-axis groves were milled first, using 0.9mm and 1.5mm for each grating blank. I use the full deep required and a single path for each grove.

View attachment 302594View attachment 302595

The X-axis groves next. Don't plunge the mill to the entire deep of the required grove, you are risky to nock the next cell out. I suggest using two or three passes (per grove) gradually moving the Z-axis until you reached the desired depth.
View attachment 302596 View attachment 302597

I just realize that didn't take photos of the process of gluing the X-axis planks. This shouldn't be too difficult and requires just a drop of PVA glue (in each cell) and firmly pressing down the planks. Once dried, you have similar to this.
View attachment 302598View attachment 302599

Using the large size mill, I made the surface even.
View attachment 302604

Bolts imitating by drilling holes using 0.2mm. I think, it is a bit oversized but I don't have a 0.1mm drill bit ;)

View attachment 302600 View attachment 302601

One coat of Tung oil finished both examples. Just for the sake of relative size, I use the figure of a 1:72 scale. The first images are gratings 1.5mm x 1.5mm cell

View attachment 302605 View attachment 302606

Here are the images of the grating sample with cell 0.9mm x 0.9mm
View attachment 302607 View attachment 302608

View attachment 302609

I am really pleased with both examples and will definitely use the mill method in my future builds. How about you? Do you like it?
Excuse me for being pedantic, but is that 'predictive text' striking again with 'grove' - which should be 'groove'?;)
 
Good tutorial Jim.Not saying someone else didn't think of this also, but I developed this method about 10 years ago and posted a tutorial on MSW.Tutorial and my membership are both long gone now.The reason I came up with the method was because my FET saw was nowhere near good enough for gratings and there's limited choice of blades for that saw.
I did turn the gratings over and milled the back off.I started with 5mm Pear sheet and finished with a grating 2mm thick

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Inow I have this Proxxon in my workshop I will use this method you show here. But before I did it almost similar without a Proxxon MF70. I like to show this here how I did that. It takes some preparation before but it works with a minimum amount of tools. Just a jewellery saw and a lot of different saw blades.
To get a gap of 1,5 mm. I use 3 saw blades of 0,5 mm. and fix them together with a little alu-tape. And fit them in the jewellery saw.
IMG_0227.JPG

I used strips of wood but you can handle it on the way Jim showed by just a piece of wood. I glued the strips to a steel ruler. and on the sides a strip to mark the depth of the saw.
IMG_0226.JPG
And the I carefully saw the gaps in the wood. When you use a piece of wood you need to do it also in the cross way.
IMG_0228.JPGIMG_0230.JPG

Because you use 2 or more saw blades the cut will be straight. After you done get the wood of the ruler and you did the job. I used I believe I found this method in From stern to bow it is a very old method.
IMG_0231.JPG
I glued these strips sideways together to get the grating.
IMG_0232.JPG
Personally I like the method of Jim, but I tried that with my Dremel and that was no success. Now with my Proxxon it will be easy. But the method I described here is perfect when you don't have the tools.
 
Inow I have this Proxxon in my workshop I will use this method you show here. But before I did it almost similar without a Proxxon MF70. I like to show this here how I did that. It takes some preparation before but it works with a minimum amount of tools. Just a jewellery saw and a lot of different saw blades.
To get a gap of 1,5 mm. I use 3 saw blades of 0,5 mm. and fix them together with a little alu-tape. And fit them in the jewellery saw.
View attachment 304325

I used strips of wood but you can handle it on the way Jim showed by just a piece of wood. I glued the strips to a steel ruler. and on the sides a strip to mark the depth of the saw.
View attachment 304324
And the I carefully saw the gaps in the wood. When you use a piece of wood you need to do it also in the cross way.
View attachment 304326View attachment 304327

Because you use 2 or more saw blades the cut will be straight. After you done get the wood of the ruler and you did the job. I used I believe I found this method in From stern to bow it is a very old method.
View attachment 304328
I glued these strips sideways together to get the grating.
View attachment 304329
Personally I like the method of Jim, but I tried that with my Dremel and that was no success. Now with my Proxxon it will be easy. But the method I described here is perfect when you don't have the tools.
That's a really nice way, yet another way, and doesn't require power tools, though. Many thanks, Steph!!
 
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