Making Treenails on deck-planking - a tutorial by Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon

Uwek

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I received some time ago a very interesting tutorial from our member Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon which I want to share with you, off course with Sergey's permission.
The original is written in russian language, so I kindly ask Jim to correct and edit the wording if necessary. The original tutorial is attached as a pdf.
But usually the photos are showing already very well the different working steps. Many Thanks for using this tutorial here in our forum.


Treenails on deck-planking
a tutorial by Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon


Good day.
The process of nailing the deck can significantly transform the model, make it more lively and saturated. However, it can also spoil it if the traffic jams on the deck or side look too large. In order to prevent this from happening, it is enough to follow simple rules. In order not to guess what the plugs should be on the model, I will give a small cheat sheet for calculations. Pictures are better remembered and saved .
1.jpg

There are many nailing methods. A wire, drawn through a die with a round stick, and wooden pins drilled by a medical needle .... We will consider in my opinion the most convenient method of nailing, proposed at one time by the famous master Dmitry Shevelev. This method allows nailing on absolutely any scale with consistent accuracy. The advantage of the method is that it allows you to produce it in a practically manual way, except, perhaps, for sharpening the sticks. But more on that later.

To begin with, we lay the deck, orienting the joints of the boards along the beams (well, or along the imaginary beams, if the deck is laid on a solid base)
2.jpg

A soft graphite pencil can be used to simulate caulking between the deck boards. You can also stick strips of black or brown paper, but this method is more complicated and requires some skill and experience. Also, pencil is faster . Don't forget to shade the ends before gluing !!
The board is hatched on one side. The installed board is hatched, graphite dust is blown off after hatching.

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

And marked with mandatory tipping points for drilling
6.jpg

For the experiment, a deck board 5 mm wide was used. This means that the diameter of the plug will be approximately 0.5 mm. We take a drill of 0.4 mm.
After pricking the markings, you can start drilling. You can drill either manually, using a drill, or with a drill. Drills can be either conventional spiral or with a thicker shank. If you don't have a drill at hand (thin drills are very fragile and often break), then you can make a drill yourself. Great for this are the usual tailor pins with a ring of 50 rubles a bucket

7.jpg

These pins use some pretty good greasy wire, so don't try to bite them with wire cutters. It is possible to take a bite off, but pits will remain on the nippers. It is better to break off the ring or cut off with a cutting disc and a drill. The pins are 0.55 mm in diameter.
After cutting the ring, the pin is inserted into the hand drill for convenience and is sharpened with a trihedron on the cutting disc fixed in the drill. Good results are obtained using a diamond cutting disc. In the picture, a pin sharpened for a drill and a "big brother" is a small graver to make it clear what the sharpening looks like.

8.jpg

You can begin to lighten

9.jpg

Now we make wooden corks. To do this, take a square stick with a cross section of approximately 1.5x1.5 mm, you can 2x2 and its tip is grinded onto a cone, approximately like sharpening a pencil. Angle 10-15 degrees. Sharpening can be done on a disk grinder, or on a drill with sandpaper glued to the cutting disc. The stick in the hands is turned back and forth until the result is as in the photo.

10.jpg

11.jpg

12.jpg

Then everything is simple. A "wooden needle" is inserted into the hole vnatyag, without any glue. In this case, the tree in the hole is slightly punched out, by about 0.1 mm. Therefore, we took the drill bit smaller for the hole than the final plug size. It turns out the “Morse cone”, the cork holds firmly without any glue, and so firmly that not a single case has been caught so far so that the cork falls out. After installation, bites off with wire cutters and the sharpening process is repeated.

It is better to sharpen 40-50 sticks at once, set, then sharpen again. A bundle of sticks is enough for a model, the process is simple and fast. The length of the sticks is 200-250 mm. If longer, then they are not convenient to work with. As for wood for manufacturing, you can use the same as the material for the deck, the first part of the nailing is done. The butt of the wood will always be darker, and after coating with oil this contrast will only intensify.

Darker wood can also be used, but it requires higher accuracy requirements. In this case, the corks will stand out strongly on the deck, like black dots, and one crookedly installed cork will spoil the whole picture. Therefore, be sure to puncture the markings, especially when using a drill for drilling - the drill strives to run away from the markings.
After nailing, the deck is sanded.

13.jpg

14.jpg

15.jpg

16.jpg

There is another interesting way to indicate nailing on the sides. The fact is that on dark wood, or on black hornbeam with a similar method, the corks will not be visible, so you can make convex corks. By the way, in this way you can perfectly imitate the heads of nails with a black hornbeam on light wood, for example, on cannon machines.

For convex caps, the corks need to be bitten off slightly higher. To do this, just stick some scotch tape on the lips of the nippers. The paper tape has a thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm, you can stick several layers. The height of the plug should be 0.2-0.4 mm from the plane.

17.jpg

After biting off the cork, you need to "refine". An excellent result is obtained when using a cup jewelry bur, such as https://www.sapphire.ru/vcd-23571/catalog.html. Please note that the outer diameter of the boron is indicated, the inner hemisphere is smaller. Suppose for a bur S = 0.8 mm, the inner sphere will be 0.5 mm in diameter, for S = 0.9 D sphere = 0.55 mm. You need to take ordinary burs, with a serrated notch. In the photo there is such a boron and its "older brother", the notch in both is the same, but the small one is so small that you cannot see it in the photo. The boron does not need to be inserted into the drill, it is enough to scroll it with your fingers. He will not go deeper than necessary. And of course, finishing grinding with such caps is impossible, so it is desired before installation. The marking lines are then erased with an eraser. When marking, try not to put pressure on the pencil and use a pencil hardness not higher than HB, it is better soft, otherwise even after the eraser there will be a scratched trace.

18.jpg

19.jpg

20.jpg

This is the result. Photo specifically with side light.

21.jpg

22.jpg

Well, it looks like this after coating with oil

23.jpg

24.jpg

Thanks for your attention. Bibigon
 

Attachments

  • Bibigon - Tutorial nailing Описание процесса.pdf
    4.3 MB · Views: 80
I join the thanks and compliments of the friends, indeed the explanation and the pictures teach a lot about the process whose result is impressive
 
I received some time ago a very interesting tutorial from our member Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon which I want to share with you, off course with Sergey's permission.
The original is written in russian language, so I kindly ask Jim to correct and edit the wording if necessary. The original tutorial is attached as a pdf.
But usually the photos are showing already very well the different working steps. Many Thanks for using this tutorial here in our forum.


Treenails on deck-planking
a tutorial by Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon

Good day.
The process of nailing the deck can significantly transform the model, make it more lively and saturated. However, it can also spoil it if the traffic jams on the deck or side look too large. In order to prevent this from happening, it is enough to follow simple rules. In order not to guess what the plugs should be on the model, I will give a small cheat sheet for calculations. Pictures are better remembered and saved .
View attachment 165673

There are many nailing methods. A wire, drawn through a die with a round stick, and wooden pins drilled by a medical needle .... We will consider in my opinion the most convenient method of nailing, proposed at one time by the famous master Dmitry Shevelev. This method allows nailing on absolutely any scale with consistent accuracy. The advantage of the method is that it allows you to produce it in a practically manual way, except, perhaps, for sharpening the sticks. But more on that later.

To begin with, we lay the deck, orienting the joints of the boards along the beams (well, or along the imaginary beams, if the deck is laid on a solid base)
View attachment 165674

A soft graphite pencil can be used to simulate caulking between the deck boards. You can also stick strips of black or brown paper, but this method is more complicated and requires some skill and experience. Also, pencil is faster . Don't forget to shade the ends before gluing !!
The board is hatched on one side. The installed board is hatched, graphite dust is blown off after hatching.

View attachment 165675

View attachment 165676

View attachment 165677

And marked with mandatory tipping points for drilling
View attachment 165678

For the experiment, a deck board 5 mm wide was used. This means that the diameter of the plug will be approximately 0.5 mm. We take a drill of 0.4 mm.
After pricking the markings, you can start drilling. You can drill either manually, using a drill, or with a drill. Drills can be either conventional spiral or with a thicker shank. If you don't have a drill at hand (thin drills are very fragile and often break), then you can make a drill yourself. Great for this are the usual tailor pins with a ring of 50 rubles a bucket

View attachment 165679

These pins use some pretty good greasy wire, so don't try to bite them with wire cutters. It is possible to take a bite off, but pits will remain on the nippers. It is better to break off the ring or cut off with a cutting disc and a drill. The pins are 0.55 mm in diameter.
After cutting the ring, the pin is inserted into the hand drill for convenience and is sharpened with a trihedron on the cutting disc fixed in the drill. Good results are obtained using a diamond cutting disc. In the picture, a pin sharpened for a drill and a "big brother" is a small graver to make it clear what the sharpening looks like.

View attachment 165680

You can begin to lighten

View attachment 165681

Now we make wooden corks. To do this, take a square stick with a cross section of approximately 1.5x1.5 mm, you can 2x2 and its tip is grinded onto a cone, approximately like sharpening a pencil. Angle 10-15 degrees. Sharpening can be done on a disk grinder, or on a drill with sandpaper glued to the cutting disc. The stick in the hands is turned back and forth until the result is as in the photo.

View attachment 165682

View attachment 165683

View attachment 165684

Then everything is simple. A "wooden needle" is inserted into the hole vnatyag, without any glue. In this case, the tree in the hole is slightly punched out, by about 0.1 mm. Therefore, we took the drill bit smaller for the hole than the final plug size. It turns out the “Morse cone”, the cork holds firmly without any glue, and so firmly that not a single case has been caught so far so that the cork falls out. After installation, bites off with wire cutters and the sharpening process is repeated.

It is better to sharpen 40-50 sticks at once, set, then sharpen again. A bundle of sticks is enough for a model, the process is simple and fast. The length of the sticks is 200-250 mm. If longer, then they are not convenient to work with. As for wood for manufacturing, you can use the same as the material for the deck, the first part of the nailing is done. The butt of the wood will always be darker, and after coating with oil this contrast will only intensify.

Darker wood can also be used, but it requires higher accuracy requirements. In this case, the corks will stand out strongly on the deck, like black dots, and one crookedly installed cork will spoil the whole picture. Therefore, be sure to puncture the markings, especially when using a drill for drilling - the drill strives to run away from the markings.
After nailing, the deck is sanded.

View attachment 165685

View attachment 165686

View attachment 165687

View attachment 165688

There is another interesting way to indicate nailing on the sides. The fact is that on dark wood, or on black hornbeam with a similar method, the corks will not be visible, so you can make convex corks. By the way, in this way you can perfectly imitate the heads of nails with a black hornbeam on light wood, for example, on cannon machines.

For convex caps, the corks need to be bitten off slightly higher. To do this, just stick some scotch tape on the lips of the nippers. The paper tape has a thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm, you can stick several layers. The height of the plug should be 0.2-0.4 mm from the plane.

View attachment 165689

After biting off the cork, you need to "refine". An excellent result is obtained when using a cup jewelry bur, such as https://www.sapphire.ru/vcd-23571/catalog.html. Please note that the outer diameter of the boron is indicated, the inner hemisphere is smaller. Suppose for a bur S = 0.8 mm, the inner sphere will be 0.5 mm in diameter, for S = 0.9 D sphere = 0.55 mm. You need to take ordinary burs, with a serrated notch. In the photo there is such a boron and its "older brother", the notch in both is the same, but the small one is so small that you cannot see it in the photo. The boron does not need to be inserted into the drill, it is enough to scroll it with your fingers. He will not go deeper than necessary. And of course, finishing grinding with such caps is impossible, so it is desired before installation. The marking lines are then erased with an eraser. When marking, try not to put pressure on the pencil and use a pencil hardness not higher than HB, it is better soft, otherwise even after the eraser there will be a scratched trace.

View attachment 165690

View attachment 165691

View attachment 165692

This is the result. Photo specifically with side light.

View attachment 165693

View attachment 165694

Well, it looks like this after coating with oil

View attachment 165695

View attachment 165696

Thanks for your attention. Bibigon
Excellent tutorial! Thanks Uwe. My question is when do you use tree nails? Is there a certain time period when treenails were used. I'm about to start Shackelton's Endeavor and would like to add some modifications, but historically accurate ones. Would a ship from the early 1900s have had treenails or some other material?
 
Excellent tutorial! Thanks Uwe. My question is when do you use tree nails? Is there a certain time period when treenails were used. I'm about to start Shackelton's Endeavor and would like to add some modifications, but historically accurate ones. Would a ship from the early 1900s have had treenails or some other material?
Deck planking is still fixed with wooden treenails or the metal nails are covered with wooden plugs - so hardly visible
So I think that also your Endeavour should have these treenails
It is maybe more a question, depending on the scale you are working, to show or not to show the deck planking treenailing.
Sometimes in small scales you can find treenails much to big and out of scale......
 
Try making a few tests on some scrap like this. The ones to the left and immediate right of the door are holes with wood filler. The next ones are various woods and bamboo. The two right hand rows are H and HB pencil dots. I'm thinking that if a person could find the right color and shade of pencil that would be the way to go. The problem with the dots is that you can't sand afterwards so mistakes are serious. :)

DSC04548.JPG
 
Thanks for the comments. I'm kind of excited about trying treenails, but if they're too out of scale I think it won't look right. Once I start assembling the deck I'll experiment and see how it looks. I want my second build to look custom and detailed! Thanks for all of the suggestions.
 
Thanks for the comments. I'm kind of excited about trying treenails, but if they're too out of scale I think it won't look right. Once I start assembling the deck I'll experiment and see how it looks. I want my second build to look custom and detailed! Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Good way.
make a small area of deck planking on a scrap wood and do not try to make the test directly on the model.
Use the same wooden strips for your test in the same width of the planking of the model.
With this you get a good overview what you like for yourself.

also on the Endurance (not Endeavor) you have to consider the scale, which is 1:70 I think
and the deck strip material included in the kit

12008_9_-jpg.jpg 12008_11_-jpg.jpg

12008_19_-jpg.jpg

Due to the fact, that the strip material width is too wide and not in scale, the joints and also the treenails shown on the Occre model are out of scale and too dominant. Also what is making the butt joints more dominant on this model is the used two butt shift - means every second plank is on the same beam the butt joint -> this is technically wrong shown by Occre - if you make f.e. shift every four planks this will be less dominant

Here you can see much better the width of the deck planking on the contemporary photo

gettyimages-946187074-2048x2048.jpg

gettyimages-946187126-2048x2048.jpg


Just some thoughts .......
 
Thanks for the comments. I'm kind of excited about trying treenails, but if they're too out of scale I think it won't look right. Once I start assembling the deck I'll experiment and see how it looks. I want my second build to look custom and detailed! Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Please take also a look at this post I made short time ago
 
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