I received some time ago a very interesting tutorial from our member Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon which I want to share with you, off course with Sergey's permission.
The original is written in russian language, so I kindly ask Jim to correct and edit the wording if necessary. The original tutorial is attached as a pdf.
But usually the photos are showing already very well the different working steps. Many Thanks for using this tutorial here in our forum.
Treenails on deck-planking
a tutorial by Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon
Good day.
The process of nailing the deck can significantly transform the model, make it more lively and saturated. However, it can also spoil it if the traffic jams on the deck or side look too large. In order to prevent this from happening, it is enough to follow simple rules. In order not to guess what the plugs should be on the model, I will give a small cheat sheet for calculations. Pictures are better remembered and saved .
There are many nailing methods. A wire, drawn through a die with a round stick, and wooden pins drilled by a medical needle .... We will consider in my opinion the most convenient method of nailing, proposed at one time by the famous master Dmitry Shevelev. This method allows nailing on absolutely any scale with consistent accuracy. The advantage of the method is that it allows you to produce it in a practically manual way, except, perhaps, for sharpening the sticks. But more on that later.
To begin with, we lay the deck, orienting the joints of the boards along the beams (well, or along the imaginary beams, if the deck is laid on a solid base)
A soft graphite pencil can be used to simulate caulking between the deck boards. You can also stick strips of black or brown paper, but this method is more complicated and requires some skill and experience. Also, pencil is faster . Don't forget to shade the ends before gluing !!
The board is hatched on one side. The installed board is hatched, graphite dust is blown off after hatching.
And marked with mandatory tipping points for drilling
For the experiment, a deck board 5 mm wide was used. This means that the diameter of the plug will be approximately 0.5 mm. We take a drill of 0.4 mm.
After pricking the markings, you can start drilling. You can drill either manually, using a drill, or with a drill. Drills can be either conventional spiral or with a thicker shank. If you don't have a drill at hand (thin drills are very fragile and often break), then you can make a drill yourself. Great for this are the usual tailor pins with a ring of 50 rubles a bucket
These pins use some pretty good greasy wire, so don't try to bite them with wire cutters. It is possible to take a bite off, but pits will remain on the nippers. It is better to break off the ring or cut off with a cutting disc and a drill. The pins are 0.55 mm in diameter.
After cutting the ring, the pin is inserted into the hand drill for convenience and is sharpened with a trihedron on the cutting disc fixed in the drill. Good results are obtained using a diamond cutting disc. In the picture, a pin sharpened for a drill and a "big brother" is a small graver to make it clear what the sharpening looks like.
You can begin to lighten
Now we make wooden corks. To do this, take a square stick with a cross section of approximately 1.5x1.5 mm, you can 2x2 and its tip is grinded onto a cone, approximately like sharpening a pencil. Angle 10-15 degrees. Sharpening can be done on a disk grinder, or on a drill with sandpaper glued to the cutting disc. The stick in the hands is turned back and forth until the result is as in the photo.
Then everything is simple. A "wooden needle" is inserted into the hole vnatyag, without any glue. In this case, the tree in the hole is slightly punched out, by about 0.1 mm. Therefore, we took the drill bit smaller for the hole than the final plug size. It turns out the “Morse cone”, the cork holds firmly without any glue, and so firmly that not a single case has been caught so far so that the cork falls out. After installation, bites off with wire cutters and the sharpening process is repeated.
It is better to sharpen 40-50 sticks at once, set, then sharpen again. A bundle of sticks is enough for a model, the process is simple and fast. The length of the sticks is 200-250 mm. If longer, then they are not convenient to work with. As for wood for manufacturing, you can use the same as the material for the deck, the first part of the nailing is done. The butt of the wood will always be darker, and after coating with oil this contrast will only intensify.
Darker wood can also be used, but it requires higher accuracy requirements. In this case, the corks will stand out strongly on the deck, like black dots, and one crookedly installed cork will spoil the whole picture. Therefore, be sure to puncture the markings, especially when using a drill for drilling - the drill strives to run away from the markings.
After nailing, the deck is sanded.
There is another interesting way to indicate nailing on the sides. The fact is that on dark wood, or on black hornbeam with a similar method, the corks will not be visible, so you can make convex corks. By the way, in this way you can perfectly imitate the heads of nails with a black hornbeam on light wood, for example, on cannon machines.
For convex caps, the corks need to be bitten off slightly higher. To do this, just stick some scotch tape on the lips of the nippers. The paper tape has a thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm, you can stick several layers. The height of the plug should be 0.2-0.4 mm from the plane.
After biting off the cork, you need to "refine". An excellent result is obtained when using a cup jewelry bur, such as https://www.sapphire.ru/vcd-23571/catalog.html. Please note that the outer diameter of the boron is indicated, the inner hemisphere is smaller. Suppose for a bur S = 0.8 mm, the inner sphere will be 0.5 mm in diameter, for S = 0.9 D sphere = 0.55 mm. You need to take ordinary burs, with a serrated notch. In the photo there is such a boron and its "older brother", the notch in both is the same, but the small one is so small that you cannot see it in the photo. The boron does not need to be inserted into the drill, it is enough to scroll it with your fingers. He will not go deeper than necessary. And of course, finishing grinding with such caps is impossible, so it is desired before installation. The marking lines are then erased with an eraser. When marking, try not to put pressure on the pencil and use a pencil hardness not higher than HB, it is better soft, otherwise even after the eraser there will be a scratched trace.
This is the result. Photo specifically with side light.
Well, it looks like this after coating with oil
Thanks for your attention. Bibigon
The original is written in russian language, so I kindly ask Jim to correct and edit the wording if necessary. The original tutorial is attached as a pdf.
But usually the photos are showing already very well the different working steps. Many Thanks for using this tutorial here in our forum.
Treenails on deck-planking
a tutorial by Sergey Trubchaninov alias @bibigon
Good day.
The process of nailing the deck can significantly transform the model, make it more lively and saturated. However, it can also spoil it if the traffic jams on the deck or side look too large. In order to prevent this from happening, it is enough to follow simple rules. In order not to guess what the plugs should be on the model, I will give a small cheat sheet for calculations. Pictures are better remembered and saved .
There are many nailing methods. A wire, drawn through a die with a round stick, and wooden pins drilled by a medical needle .... We will consider in my opinion the most convenient method of nailing, proposed at one time by the famous master Dmitry Shevelev. This method allows nailing on absolutely any scale with consistent accuracy. The advantage of the method is that it allows you to produce it in a practically manual way, except, perhaps, for sharpening the sticks. But more on that later.
To begin with, we lay the deck, orienting the joints of the boards along the beams (well, or along the imaginary beams, if the deck is laid on a solid base)
A soft graphite pencil can be used to simulate caulking between the deck boards. You can also stick strips of black or brown paper, but this method is more complicated and requires some skill and experience. Also, pencil is faster . Don't forget to shade the ends before gluing !!
The board is hatched on one side. The installed board is hatched, graphite dust is blown off after hatching.
And marked with mandatory tipping points for drilling
For the experiment, a deck board 5 mm wide was used. This means that the diameter of the plug will be approximately 0.5 mm. We take a drill of 0.4 mm.
After pricking the markings, you can start drilling. You can drill either manually, using a drill, or with a drill. Drills can be either conventional spiral or with a thicker shank. If you don't have a drill at hand (thin drills are very fragile and often break), then you can make a drill yourself. Great for this are the usual tailor pins with a ring of 50 rubles a bucket
These pins use some pretty good greasy wire, so don't try to bite them with wire cutters. It is possible to take a bite off, but pits will remain on the nippers. It is better to break off the ring or cut off with a cutting disc and a drill. The pins are 0.55 mm in diameter.
After cutting the ring, the pin is inserted into the hand drill for convenience and is sharpened with a trihedron on the cutting disc fixed in the drill. Good results are obtained using a diamond cutting disc. In the picture, a pin sharpened for a drill and a "big brother" is a small graver to make it clear what the sharpening looks like.
You can begin to lighten
Now we make wooden corks. To do this, take a square stick with a cross section of approximately 1.5x1.5 mm, you can 2x2 and its tip is grinded onto a cone, approximately like sharpening a pencil. Angle 10-15 degrees. Sharpening can be done on a disk grinder, or on a drill with sandpaper glued to the cutting disc. The stick in the hands is turned back and forth until the result is as in the photo.
Then everything is simple. A "wooden needle" is inserted into the hole vnatyag, without any glue. In this case, the tree in the hole is slightly punched out, by about 0.1 mm. Therefore, we took the drill bit smaller for the hole than the final plug size. It turns out the “Morse cone”, the cork holds firmly without any glue, and so firmly that not a single case has been caught so far so that the cork falls out. After installation, bites off with wire cutters and the sharpening process is repeated.
It is better to sharpen 40-50 sticks at once, set, then sharpen again. A bundle of sticks is enough for a model, the process is simple and fast. The length of the sticks is 200-250 mm. If longer, then they are not convenient to work with. As for wood for manufacturing, you can use the same as the material for the deck, the first part of the nailing is done. The butt of the wood will always be darker, and after coating with oil this contrast will only intensify.
Darker wood can also be used, but it requires higher accuracy requirements. In this case, the corks will stand out strongly on the deck, like black dots, and one crookedly installed cork will spoil the whole picture. Therefore, be sure to puncture the markings, especially when using a drill for drilling - the drill strives to run away from the markings.
After nailing, the deck is sanded.
There is another interesting way to indicate nailing on the sides. The fact is that on dark wood, or on black hornbeam with a similar method, the corks will not be visible, so you can make convex corks. By the way, in this way you can perfectly imitate the heads of nails with a black hornbeam on light wood, for example, on cannon machines.
For convex caps, the corks need to be bitten off slightly higher. To do this, just stick some scotch tape on the lips of the nippers. The paper tape has a thickness of 0.08-0.1 mm, you can stick several layers. The height of the plug should be 0.2-0.4 mm from the plane.
After biting off the cork, you need to "refine". An excellent result is obtained when using a cup jewelry bur, such as https://www.sapphire.ru/vcd-23571/catalog.html. Please note that the outer diameter of the boron is indicated, the inner hemisphere is smaller. Suppose for a bur S = 0.8 mm, the inner sphere will be 0.5 mm in diameter, for S = 0.9 D sphere = 0.55 mm. You need to take ordinary burs, with a serrated notch. In the photo there is such a boron and its "older brother", the notch in both is the same, but the small one is so small that you cannot see it in the photo. The boron does not need to be inserted into the drill, it is enough to scroll it with your fingers. He will not go deeper than necessary. And of course, finishing grinding with such caps is impossible, so it is desired before installation. The marking lines are then erased with an eraser. When marking, try not to put pressure on the pencil and use a pencil hardness not higher than HB, it is better soft, otherwise even after the eraser there will be a scratched trace.
This is the result. Photo specifically with side light.
Well, it looks like this after coating with oil
Thanks for your attention. Bibigon