Mamoli MV82 Black Beard [COMPLETED BUILD]

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Feb 27, 2021
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Location
The Netherlands, Brabant
Today i made a little start on this model.
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First i unpacked it and make pictures and post it here in the forum at kit reviews.
Next step i made was trying to find out how the description worked.
I tried to find all the English description parts and marked them with a yellow maker..
Because i can't read Italian, German and France.
It's even a guess it are this languages.
After marking everything i started to cut out the standard and the first pieces of the frame.
Numbered them and sanding them.

20220512_103332.jpg the standard i already put together
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Today i glued al 10 frames on the model and placed the deck.
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The deck is slightly curved so before i glue it on i checked it first multiple times from different angles and sand some frames a tiny bit.
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Now it fits perfectly and i can glue it on the frames.
Also i placed a prow filling at the front and stern on the keel.
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When this is dry i can start making the frames more suitable for the planking by sanding the edges of the frames
 
When you read the description than you need already put on 2 layers of planks before you start planking the deck.
I know it is a lot easier to do it even before you gleu the deck on the frame. So i am already to late. Still it is a lot easier to do it now.

So i did the deck before starting to put on the first layer of plankings on the frame
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Maybe some notice it, i don't use full length strips. I cut them in pieces. This because i like the view when you look on to the deck you see multiple planks, when they all look different and not too perfect not like bricks on a wall, just a more playful view. Also it is a pirate vessel, and not a royal navy vessel.
I can't deny at a navy ship it need to be perfect in line
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Only a little bit more sanding and i can put on the first layer.
 
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In the description isn't a lot information about planking.
In the drawings you can see a little part of the first layer at the prow. But if you try to make it that way you make the same mistake as me.
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On figure 7 you only see that the first layer is thicker than the second one. On figure 8 you see 6 planks. You can try to make it look like that but it is impossible. Above the first plank in line of the deck there is place for 2 planks. On the drawing they put also 3 planks below the first one. But the front of the model isn't the shape they show at the drawing.
And so you will never get it like they have draw it.

In the description they only say you have to start from the prow and going towards the stern. The upper side of the strip follows the upper line of the deck.
so i start working on the first layer 20220520_103420.jpg
I took some little pieces balsa wood and filled up the front first. it's easier to put and glue the planking on and get it in the right shape.
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After the first strip i tried to work down like the drawing try to show you, but after 2 strips and endles bending and cutting i wasn't satisfied at all about it.
I didn't remove it but i needed to do it differently.
now i tried to start planking from the bottom of the ship and it all fits nicely after bending the wood in the shape of the model.

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after a few planks i took off a part of those 2 strips that i placed after the first one. from frame 4 to the prow.
Because the weren't nice to see and they start to get in the way.

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Iff you want also build this model i really advise to do only the first plank like the description says and then start at the bottom work your way up, it is a lot easier and it fits better.

The part i took off is easy to fix again and i know now the second layer will be put on from the bottom of the model up to the deck.
But first finishing the first layer and make the model ready by sanding and maybe some filling.
 
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There is nothing to find about the backside with some useful information about the planking there.
So after looking to the side drawings of the model i made the choice to let the layers of planking go on so far as possible.
Because i removed some parts of the first planks i placed ( from frame 4 to the prow) and i didn't know iff i have enough spare wood i used some other planks i had left of a earlier model. I also fill up the little open spots with pieces i normally trow away.
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Last planks i cut to fit and put them into the gabs.

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I only need to put 2 planks more on both sides above the deck to finish the first layer planking.
After those 2 i will use some woodfiller to close the last little open spots and start sanding the first layer nice and smooth before starting to put on the next layer. On the prow i have some cutting and most filling work to do. Just to get a nice round effect.

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Last 2 planks are in place and im satisfied how they all fits nicely at the prow. 20220531_100743.jpg
I also put on the stern the planking after studying the drawings to get them in the right angle an using the pushchairs (goolge translate calling them so ?)i also made those already to be sure for the angle, and it is handy to use them for the measuring
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I filled up some small open places between the planking with some putty.
While i write this it is drying, so probably i can go on sanding the model today and make sure everything is in order before putting on the second layer of planking
 
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I didn't mention it before but there are 2 different colours strips with the model.
1 dark walnut the other a tiny bit lighter of colour.
Maybe it's both the same kind of wood. I'm not sure about that but i have 2 different colours.
So i first sorted them before i did the deck.

I used the light one for the deck. And the darker walnut i use for the second layer on the hull.


I have filled and sand the model and start putting on the second layer.
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I start on the bottom of the ship.
(I have just put on the 6th strip , both sides 3 so im not very far)

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I use little needles to hold the in the right place and the little holes will after removing the needles shrink for the most part in a day or 2
You can see it on the picture

No one likes to see those holes so when you make the strips a tiny bit wet the holes will disappear, other trick is putting a tiny bit glue (with a toothpick) on the holes while your sanding.
A layer paint or varnish will also do the trick
 
I didn't mention it before but there are 2 different colours strips with the model.
1 dark walnut the other a tiny bit lighter of colour.
Maybe it's both the same kind of wood. I'm not sure about that but i have 2 different colours.
So i first sorted them before i did the deck.

I used the light one for the deck. And the darker walnut i use for the second layer on the hull.


I have filled and sand the model and start putting on the second layer.





View attachment 312105
I start on the bottom of the ship.
(I have just put on the 6th strip , both sides 3 so im not very far)

View attachment 312106

I use little needles to hold the in the right place and the little holes will after removing the needles shrink for the most part in a day or 2
You can see it on the picture

No one likes to see those holes so when you make the strips a tiny bit wet the holes will disappear, other trick is putting a tiny bit glue (with a toothpick) on the holes while your sanding.
A layer paint or varnish will also do the trick
Good morning. Good start with the first planking layer. Have you considered tappered planking especially at the bow. I don’t know if you are considering a plan to line the planks as this would make them fit nice and linear across the hull. At the stern you may consider a stealer to fit the plan. Cheers Grant
 
The first few planks will fit nice and easy. On the way i have to make some adjustments to the planking to let them fit. On the drawing they are slightly bendind across the model. But it is a drawing and not really spectacular good.
I guess it's because of the shape of the hull also.
At the stern i like your idea. Didn't think of that, so thank you

By the way i don't put the whole layer on from the bottom up.
I stop when it doesn't fit anymore without making a adjustment. Then i start on the deck level and work my way down.
It's a pity this model haven't any clear pictures of the hull. The ones i have aren't even close to the shape of this model
They really could make a better description.
 
After 4 or 5 planks i turned the ship and i have put 1 plank of the second layer right under the first plank i placed of the first layer. So it is even high as the deck.20220605_102559.jpg
Then i turned the model back upside down and planked futher from the underside to that strip .
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Only have to fill two spots on the rear of the model on the back. I put some glue in the gaps between the planking before i sand it and i start sanding before yhe gleu get dry. So the sanding dust will fill up the open gaps with the same color as the planking. I sand the model now because i need to put on a little thicker plank 2x3 instead of 1x4.
Its easier to sand it before the thicker one is on.
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It took some time, but i have changed my workspace, new desk, better lights and now i have a old pickup also so i can sing now while working .
I did finish the planking only i had to move everytime because the admiral told me everytime i was sitting in the way..

But after i finished the planking on the underside and sanding that part i put a thicker walnut strip on the model 2x3 20220620_120754.jpgthe top of that strip is 2mm above the deck and exactly the end of the gunports.
Then cut and sand of the top of the frames who are to height
Above the thicker strip (whaler) i placed 2 more walnut planks.
So i finish planking on the outside.
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There is nowhere a description or picture of the back of the model so i put the planking and the whaler (2x3 strip) on the back and let it fits the sides.
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Next thing i did is measuring where the gunports need to be and draw them on the inside and carefully saw and cut them out of the model 20220621_112140.jpg
Between the frames on the inside i glued some walnut planking and after drying i cut again the gunports out and sand them
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It took some time, but i have changed my workspace, new desk, better lights and now i have a old pickup also so i can sing now while working .
I did finish the planking only i had to move everytime because the admiral told me everytime i was sitting in the way..

But after i finished the planking on the underside and sanding that part i put a thicker walnut strip on the model 2x3 View attachment 315102the top of that strip is 2mm above the deck and exactly the end of the gunports.
Then cut and sand of the top of the frames who are to height
Above the thicker strip (whaler) i placed 2 more walnut planks.
So i finish planking on the outside.
View attachment 315107View attachment 315108
There is nowhere a description or picture of the back of the model so i put the planking and the whaler (2x3 strip) on the back and let it fits the sides.
View attachment 315109
Next thing i did is measuring where the gunports need to be and draw them on the inside and carefully saw and cut them out of the model View attachment 315110
Between the frames on the inside i glued some walnut planking and after drying i cut again the gunports out and sand them
View attachment 315111View attachment 315112
Good morning- Nice! It is always a good feeling when she starts to look like a ship. I like the way you did your wales. Always good to have our own space to play with our little ships and have “our time” . Cheers Grant
 
20220623_104946.jpgAfter finishing the gunports i drill a 5mm hole in the front for the bowsprit
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In the description they talk about copper colour on the bottom of the ship above it walnut brown and on the inside of the wall's red. So i looked again on the box because i remembered the colours on the box photo didn't look like what they say.
The only picture on top of the modelbox is this ship. On the sides and back they show totally different ships.

I almost thought im colour blind because...copper and walnut arent the colours i see.
I see some kind of olive metallic green and black.
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I also noticed the model i'm making is a bit different than the one showed on the box photo But it are only a few little differences.
I actually like the colours on the photo on the box so i painted the inner walls red
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Next i mark the waterline and taped it and have paint it with a primer first.
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Then i tried to mix some green with brass but it got to green and shiny. Still i like it and maybe i wil put on some gray wash to make it more matt looking. But for now i leave it this way

In the pictures below the paint isn't dry and with light on it is even glossing more then it is after drying i hope
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I took of the tape and painted instead of wallnut the part black above the green . I painted the whaler also and the inside of the gunports
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After the paint had dried well, I stuck 2x2mm bars on the inside.

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Also placed the saddles on the stern.

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According to the description I now have to bend 2 walnut strips of 2x4mm.
Now this is normally not a problem but they have to be bent in width.
I soaked them in a cup of water for over 24 hours and this morning tried to bend them through a homemade mold into the correct shape.
I also used a bending bolt but unfortunately this cannot be done after 24 hours of weeks, something I already feared.

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So on to another solution. I looked for a piece of wood 2 mm thick. Unfortunately I only had a piece of mdf but it still has to be painted so you probably won't see it after painting.
So on to the drawing and copied the front piece, I immediately did the other pieces as well since I have to copy these later anyway.

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After sawing and sanding, they fit well enough to put in the primer, I only do precision tailoring when they really go on.

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Because it is mdf and I will continue with walnut, I will put the mdf 2x in the primer.
This is because mdf is very different wood and the paint reacts differently to it.

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Maybe i need to do that also, can you provide the link ?
I downloaded the discription of the Baltimere clipper of model shipway.

Primer is dry, next i painted it black before putting it on. It almost fits exactly, so not much sanding to do. I also put on the black painted walnut strips so that part is finished also.
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Next i need to make the so called superstructures. In the description there is standing :" for positioning refer tab 3 in 1:1 scale. Parts 30, 31 etc. Are enlarged and therefore not in actual scale"
They haven't enlarged it much and i wonder why the did it.
But it is as it is, so next step will be making those parts.
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