Marvel's Hydra Coupe 1/12 scale full scratch build

[François]

I'm almost done with the display top. Just need to install the top plexiglass. I'm vefy pleased with the result as everything came together nicely and as planned. Wiring the spot lights went as planned also. I still need to make the base and to install all the quick connect plugs.

Here are a few pictures of the display top.

And with the car

 

[Namabiiru]

That is simply amazing! Your creativity in designing and building this wonderful display is simply beyond description.

On suggestion I might offer is that the car is backlit from down low, so a lot of the magnificent detail is not well illuminated on the viewing side. If you set up a light bar from corner to corner on the front, that could be solved without obscuring the view of the car. Just a thought. Magnificent regardless!

 

[Chestcutter]

I'm almost done with the display top. Just need to install the top plexiglass. I'm vefy pleased with the result as everything came together nicely and as planned. Wiring the spot lights went as planned also. I still need to make the base and to install all the quick connect plugs.

Here are a few pictures of the display top.

And with the car

Superb Francois.

Can I ask about the plexiglass for the top curved part. Is it a single piece or panels? Are there slots in the frame to hold the plexiglass, what width is it? How is the plexiglass secured?
Thanks

 

[François]

Thank you for the suggestion namabiiru. There are 3 spots on the viewing side that shine down. I haven't tweaked the spots orientation yet so I might get a better result. But like I said in a earlier post, I didn't expect these lights to shine much. It's really just for fun. The car is best viewed in daylight.

 

[GIG1810]

Hey François,

once again breathtaking. Beautifully realised. A quick question about the perspex: how thick is it and how did you get it so curved?

About the headlights. Would you have the option of changing these LEDs to amber? Because then they wouldn't appear so white and it would be much more harmonious and realistic.

But what can I say; you're amazing. !! Great design...

Greetings

Günther

 

[François]

Thank you Gunther, the lights are actually incandescent, not led. They are more amber than white in real, the pictures don't seems rendered them correctly. I won't be changing them, that would require 6 new complete spot lights.

 

[GIG1810]

Merci François for the answer! It so so amazing.....
Cheers
Günther

 

[François]

Superb Francois.

Can I ask about the plexiglass for the top curved part. Is it a single piece or panels? Are there slots in the frame to hold the plexiglass, what width is it? How is the plexiglass secured?
Thanks

Chestcutter
Yes, the top plexiglass will be one piece, it's 1/32" thick and will measure 28.5 in wide by about 24 (I haven't measured yet). The lip along the top and bottom structure are effectively to hold the plexiglass in place and it will be held in place using a bunch of printed rivets.



View attachment 20250629_081942.mp4

 

[pebbleworm]

Taking a hint from Kustom car shows, maybe use a mirror for the floor and raise the outside of the car on jackstands/intricate test rig for a better view of the underside?

 

[François]

Thank you everyone.

The base is done, just need to paint it flat black. And to decide what type of floor to but in. Pebbleworn, not sure about a mirror. I tried it on the Bentley and it was too busy. The car is already on a support frame but I might try to raise it for a better view of the underside.

I also installed the quick connect for the lights.

 

[GIG1810]

Good morning François,

Beautiful. I wouldn't use a mirror. Wouldn't fit the theme. Pebbles sounds good or even bare concrete with markings. But whatever you choose, I'm sure it will be great.

Best regards

Günther

 

[François]

Ok so the base is painted, I raise the car a full inche for a better view of the underside and I but in a grayish floor (a bit like in the bentley's display). And, I don't like it. I don't like it for a 3 reasons. First, it's too big, second, it's too big and third, it's too big. I'm a 'builds first and ask questions later' kinda guy, and the first question I asked myself after completing the didplay was 'where am I going to put this thing'. I didn't have an answer. So in comes plan B. I'll redo the base but much narrower, it has to fit on a 12 inche deep shelf. Instead of overhead lighting, l'll install 4 spot lights on the floor. The grayish cardboard floor will be replaced by a mini graveled surface, I might even try to make some tire tracks in the gravel. Red Skull will still be at the controls, and lastly, there will be no cover as the glare in the plexiglass really bothers me. I wanted to display the car in 'Marvelesque' environment but I think I went overboard with the idea.

Here's the completed display case (the too big one). I'll try to find a place for it somewhere, a lot of work went into it and it would be a shame to scrap it.

And here's the proposed plan B

 

[Namabiiru]

Francois, I think you are exactly right in all those points.

Since you had already decided on the floor, I didn’t suggest it, but I thought a simulated tarmac like in the hangar of the hydra bomber might go well.

 

[GIG1810]

Hey François,

I know the space problems. That's why I can only build in 1/72 scale. No matter what you build François, it will be great. You are an artist.

I'm looking forward to it.

Cheers
Günther

 

[François]

So, the model is complete. The base is done, the lights are connected, all is well.

Yes, all is well... until it wasn't. While trying to turn the motor, the crank broke... again. So now the car is in the repair shop. I removed the body, wheels, seats and anything else the is not glued. I temporarely modified the support rack to hold the car upside down and started to analyse the situation. It's not good. The crank shaft broke in 2 places. I'm not sure it's repaireble but I'll try. Best scenario is the I fix everything, worst will be that I glue the broken parts in place and nothing move again. The middle ground would be to link the remaining crank with the gear motor via a straight shaft (no pistons attached to this portion). This would permit rotation of 10 out of 16 pistons plus all of the valve train.

I'll see what is possible but I'm not overly confident. I do have a video showing the motor running so at least I have that to prove I was able to pull it off.

Here's the situation as of today.

Body removed

whatever was removable removed

Car flip over on temporary cradle

Broken crankshaft

wish me luck!!

 

[GIG1810]

Hey François,

Great work and the gravel-look floor just looks great. The spotlights are also awesome! I knew you could do it and that you would be rewarded for your great work.

I'm very sorry that your crankshaft didn't stand up to the stresses and strains. All it takes is one cylinder or the crank not running straight and it's done. It's bad when you put so much love and passion into a model. But what's good is the fact that you still have a plan B, even if it involves a lot of work. It's also good that you don't have to tear everything down, but were able to remove parts through the screw connections to get to the engine. I'll keep my fingers crossed that everything will be okay again. You can do it.

Best regards

Günther

 

[Namabiiru]

That must be frustrating, Francois. I hope you are able to find a successful resolution; however, even if nothing moves again, it is still a wonderful-looking piece of art you have created.

 

[Daniel20]

Good luck on the repairs Francois, yours is one of my favorite builds.