MASTS

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I’m a relative newbie with this model ship building stuff, but I used light Oak Minwax stain on my builds. I brushed on light coats with a small foam brush until I was satisfied with the outcome. I’m sure there will be many more options posted to your thread.

Jan
While not addressing finishes or tapers of the spars, I am running up a warning flag to help others who are at the stages of shrouds and the crane on the lower mast head area. When you complete your shrouds with the bight to go around the upper mast at crosstree, place that shroud bight before you complete the crane as the shroud bight is UNDER the crane where it is parallel to the mast on the aft side and before you place the bands and blocks above the cross trees.
In my need to do something a few months ago I completed all of my shrouds and ratlines placing them aside. Later when wanting something to advance I did the brass bands soldering for both masts and the booms and gaffs, including the crane on both masts.

Today I wanted to bend the shrouds on the lower mast and realized that I blundered big time by not doing that BEFORE the crane. Short story was that I had to remove the serving around the upper shrouds forming the bend and then cut one side of the bight so that I had an open end to pass around the mast and behind the crane. Next was frustration in splicing the shroud ends together to form the bight now properly place. with very little working room for the serving. Present status is that I completed this splinting for the Main Mast but still have to do the same with the Fore Mast!!!!!

As I am bending all of the sails having the main sail bent to the gaff, boom, and mast hoops threaded with the mast there were a lot of things in the way. Lesson here is to correct the shrouds on the Fore Mast BEFORE I bend the Fore Sail to its boom, gaff, and mast.

I learn by my mistakes and these were big ones as far as the model goes. I will live with Granddad's model for the future with the spliced shrouds' bends.

May your builds proceed in better sequence than what I blundered with by trying to do too many small things ahead of time and loosing track of sequencing.]
Rich (PT-2) :-((( :mad:
 
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This is from the Bluenose Practicum Standard, page 135, hope it helps:View attachment 255199
I too have seen this schedule of colors frim S&M Dated some time in 1970. It does not state the date that those colors are based upon so with frequent out-hauling's for repairs during her years between 1921 and 38 these were likely some changes made but the primary elements/colors remained fairly standard. The old photos only show the consistent white ones but it is a challenge to see how the bowsprit may have changed. BNII is herself and with her own colors. After your research I would recommend using the colors that come best to your eye and end satisfaction an let "perfection" pass by in the wake. Rich (PT-2)
 
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While not addressing finishes or tapers of the spars, I am running up a warning flag to help others who are at the stages of shrouds and the crane on the lower mast head area. When you complete your shrouds with the bight to go around the upper mast at crosstree, place that shroud bight before you complete the crane as the shroud bight is UNDER the crane where it is parallel to the mast on the aft side and before you place the bands and blocks above the cross trees.
In my need to do something a few months ago I completed all of my shrouds and ratlines placing them aside. Later when wanting something to advance I did the brass bands soldering for both masts and the booms and gaffs, including the crane on both masts.

Today I wanted to bend the shrouds on the lower mast and realized that I blundered big time by not doing that BEFORE the crane. Short story was that I had to remove the serving around the upper shrouds forming the bend and then cut one side of the bight so that I had an open end to pass around the mast and behind the crane. Next was frustration in splicing the shroud ends together to form the bight now properly place. with very little working room for the serving. Present status is that I completed this splinting for the Main Mast but still have to do the same with the Fore Mast!!!!!

As I am bending all of the sails having the main sail bent to the gaff, boom, and mast hoops threaded with the mast there were a lot of things in the way. Lesson here is to correct the shrouds on the Fore Mast BEFORE I bend the Fore Sail to its boom, gaff, and mast.

I learn by my mistakes and these were big ones as far as the model goes. I will live with Granddad's model for the future with the spliced shrouds' bends.

May your builds proceed in better sequence than what I blundered with by trying to do too many small things ahead of time and loosing track of sequencing.]
Rich (PT-2) :-((( :mad:
At least you know when you have made a mistake, Rich. I'm building from scratch without written instructions so I have made some monster mistakes so far. Now I am finding that correcting the mistakes to my satisfaction is part of the fun and I don't doubt real life 18th Century shipwrights had to do the same (or flog the person who made the mistake). :cool:
 
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At least you know when you have made a mistake, Rich. I'm building from scratch without written instructions so I have made some monster mistakes so far. Now I am finding that correcting the mistakes to my satisfaction is part of the fun and I don't doubt real life 18th Century shipwrights had to do the same (or flog the person who made the mistake). :cool:
Flogging would be a tap on the wrist compared to a keel-hauling that I sometimes feel is in order for my own blunders. . . the repeated ones!!!:mad: Rich
 
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I too have seen this schedule of colors frim S&M Dated some time in 1970. It does not state the date that those colors are based upon so with frequent out-hauling's for repairs during her years between 1921 and 38 these were likely some changes made but the primary elements/colors remained fairly standard. The old photos only show the consistent white ones but it is a challenge to see how the bowsprit may have changed. BNII is herself and with her own colors. After your research I would recommend using the colors that come best to your eye and end satisfaction an let "perfection" pass by in the wake. Rich (PT-2)
The letter states the colors specified are from the original Bluenose. Like you Rich, I have some reservations, especially since the letter was send 7 years after the build of BN II. So not necessarily not accurate, but no guarantees.
 
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