Micro Mark Clamps

[rtibbs]

Been using this clamp for years and recently added 'New ones' to my inventory and have had several that have come apart. The old style had the screw part fully encapsulated in the aluminum handle. The new style has the screw splined and pressed into the handle.
Just curious if anyone else has experienced this.

 

[Alan Smith]

To fix this you can use loctite as a gap-filling adhesive, then press the screw back into its hole with a vice. Then re-clamp it in the vice with the screw pointing at the sky and with a small sharp punch tap a ring of indentations around the entry point. This spreads the metal and will help to retain the screw. Bad design though.

 

[rtibbs]

To fix this you can use loctite as a gap-filling adhesive, then press the screw back into its hole with a vice. Then re-clamp it in the vice with the screw pointing at the sky and with a small sharp punch tap a ring of indentations around the entry point. This spreads the metal and will help to retain the screw. Bad design though.

Alan, I've done just that and had some success. I agree the new design sucks. Not something the consumer should have to do. Never had an issue with the original design. Of course the worst part is the head comes off when you tighten the clamp down and then you're left with removing the screw with a pair of needle nosed pliers.

 

[AllanKP69]

Just curious if anyone else has experienced this.

Please take this for what it is worth it is not meant to be denigrating in any way. If planks are properly shaped by spiling or hot/wet edge bending as needed before setting them on the hull, clamps are unnecessary. When planking if a plank does not stay put and tight after holding it with finger pressure for a minute or less using PVA I know it needs to be additionally shaped and will adjust as needed. I prefer PVA but some folks prefer CA and if it is used, it works in seconds. I used this type of clamp many years ago but once I learned how to plank properly I have not had to use them. An added plus is that finger pressure does not dent the wood as will a metal clamp.
Allan

 

[paul ron]

i use rubber bands wrapped around the hull and a piece of wood under to hold the work down. you will get pretty crafty how you place the rubber bands and scraps to pin the planks at just the right angles.

btw that 2 piece design will allow you to use more clamps and just the one driver. what size screws are those? how about using drywall screws #6 and very sharp tips. you can get finish dry wall screws in #4 as well. then a cross point screw driver is all ya need.

 

[Alan Smith]

I use rubber bands a lot. Also, aeromodellers elastic strip - feet of it make very versatile clamps. I discovered this a long time ago when restoring antique chairs - then I used to use spiral-cut strips from old style car innertubes.

 

[danielsje]

This style clamp is useful, I have several, so try to fix them with adhesive and punching indents as described above…or self insure by throwing away the faulty clamps and buying a new set. For me buying a new set is easier than trying to fix…but then I can be lazy with such things!

 

[rtibbs]

This style clamp is useful, I have several, so try to fix them with adhesive and punching indents as described above…or self insure by throwing away the faulty clamps and buying a new set. For me buying a new set is easier than trying to fix…but then I can be lazy with such things!

I agree. I don't fix I replace Just pointing out new manufacturing process isn't always better. IMHO

Of course if I was as proficient as AllanKP69 I probably wouldn't require clamps.

 

[Rob444]

I think 5 minute epoxy would provide a permeant fix.

Rob