Mini mill setup challenges.

[OlivierF]

I’m having a challenging time getting a zero setup on my mini mill (both Proxxon MF70 and FF230). I do not have a DRO (digital readout) installed just the knobs on the X, Y and Z axis. I’m getting pretty good at anchoring the work pieces on the X/Y table or in a clamp. My problem is finding the zero starting point. I understand the mechanics of an edge finder but have not gotten one yet. But even finding the edge with an edge finder one still has to extrapolate the zero position for a 1mm end mill…
What about figuring out zero for the top of a piece (Z axis). I’ve tried sliding a piece of paper under the end mill with limited success other than torn paper…
Any ideas, tricks or expertise would be wonderful.
Thanks all! Fair winds and following seas to you…

 

[The learner]

Gee I wish I could help you, The only thing I know using a mill is doing the work/operating visual which works pretty good but not perfect so if you don't mint I will ride along and learn!

 

[ConsNZ]

I'm looking forward to any answers you receive. I have the M70 but as yet haven't used it apart from a little practice and breaking two expensive 1mm cutters. Hope assistance is forthcoming, Cheers O

 

[Y.T.]

Most of work I do on the mill is wood processing for our hobby. It is more than enough for our hobby to use one's eye for the staring point.

 

[OlivierF]

Most of work I do on the mill is wood processing for our hobby. It is more than enough for our hobby to use one's eye for the staring point.

Thanks Y.T. I too have been “eyeballing” and sneaking up on edges and limits but I was hoping for some better ways or options for more accurate setups.
Maybe some other folks have more info to share.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Thanks Y.T. I too have been “eyeballing” and sneaking up on edges and limits but I was hoping for some better ways or options for more accurate setups.
Maybe some other folks have more info to share.

well, i purchased a kit to convert my MF70 mill to a CNC machine. I got it on ebay from a guy in Germany. I don't know if he still sells it or not. The kit adds stepper motors to all three axes and a motor controller talks to the motors. I am still missing limit switches, but once they are installed, I will be able to autohome the axes such that (0,0,0) is always at the same place. Anyways that is the theory. I am currently working on making a holder for the limit switches via a 3D printer. This is just a project for me, but I am hoping it will work out.

Kind Regards

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I’m having a challenging time getting a zero setup on my mini mill (both Proxxon MF70 and FF230). I do not have a DRO (digital readout) installed just the knobs on the X, Y and Z axis. I’m getting pretty good at anchoring the work pieces on the X/Y table or in a clamp. My problem is finding the zero starting point. I understand the mechanics of an edge finder but have not gotten one yet. But even finding the edge with an edge finder one still has to extrapolate the zero position for a 1mm end mill…
What about figuring out zero for the top of a piece (Z axis). I’ve tried sliding a piece of paper under the end mill with limited success other than torn paper…
Any ideas, tricks or expertise would be wonderful.
Thanks all! Fair winds and following seas to you…

the paper thing is the only non automated solution that I know for zeroing the zaxis.
in my opinion, if you are tearing paper then that means your endmill is too low.

 

[rtibbs]

the paper thing is the only non automated solution that I know for zeroing the zaxis.
in my opinion, if you are tearing paper then that means your endmill is too low.

In my early days with my Bridgeport mill, paper was the way we zeroed the z axis. That was way before touch plates and all that cool stuff was around.

 

[Alan Smith]

In the UK cigarette rolling papers were used as contact detectors by old school machinists. They were good enough for most purposes.

 

[Roger Pellett]

Sort of related: I have a cheap calculator along with pencil and paper that I keep handy. I have found it useful to make crude dimensioned sketch’s of machining setups. You could first diagram your edge finder math first.

Roger

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Sort of related: I have a cheap calculator along with pencil and paper that I keep handy. I have found it useful to make crude dimensioned sketch’s of machining setups. You could first diagram your edge finder math first.

Roger

would you mind giving an example? Sorry Olivier. I don't mean to hijack your post. I am finding this discourse very interesting.

 

[paul ron]

i ran a cnc router for years. to zero the cutter, id put the cutter im calibrating in the chuck but dont tighten it yet. lower the chuck to its max down position with a playing card under the cutter. once the chuck is down, tighten the cutter in the chuck.... that is your zero adjustment so the cutter will never hit the Platten.

i used a playing card because my work piece was backed with paper the same thickness. once the cutter hit zero, it was through my material but the backer kept the pieces in place till i was finished doing my patterns.

you will have to readjust for each cutter you use. i made a score mark on my cutters at the chuck so next time i only had to insert the cutter to the score line... perfect everytime.