Mini miter box for Japanese Saw

Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
33
Points
48

Location
Mexico
I have a a couple of Japanese saws. They are very thin. They are pull saws instead of push saws.
Their teeth are very fragile and can break when they encounter metal.
As a beginner on using this saws:
  • I am not nailing the pieces.
  • Currently has only the 90 degree.
How it was done.
1) Prepare the sandpaper.
With the issue of bringing outside the tools and material, a piece of MDF (could be of other material but it is what I have at home) was covered with sandpaper: 120 on one side and 180 on the other side.
Use the sandpaper at your discretion during the build.
IMG_7371.JPG

2) Prepare the materials for the mini miter box.
  • A base
  • 2 pieces of wood. (use what you have) (A & B)
    • I got this dimensions: height 17.5 mm x width 20 mm x length 20 cm
    • In A make a mark at the middle, use the saw, but don't go all the way thru
  • 1 large wooden paint mixer (C)
    • cut to 20 cm (C)
    • keep the left over (D)
miniMeterBoxMaterial.JPG

3) Glue the pieces
4) Use the Japanese saw to mark (B) and saw until there is a small indentation on (C)

IMG_7373.JPG

Making wedges
5) Cut D to have a length of 10 cm
- place D in the box
- use the indentations on A & B as a guide
IMG_7374.JPG

6) Mark with a pencil a line to make 2 wedges on D
I tried to use the saw to cut the wedge using the guides, but ended up doing it on the edge of the jig
See how nice the mirror image of the wood shows on the saw.
IMG_7375.JPG

IMG_7376.JPG

Using the jig
- The wedges can be used as a stopper
- In the image I used it to cut up to 5mm
- the wood is easy to keep in place with the left hand
IMG_7377.JPG

The wedges can be used as a clamp
- When the wood is so wide that is difficult to keep in place with the hand, place the wedges on top to tighten up.
IMG_7379.JPG


The complete set:
IMG_7378.JPG
 
I have a a couple of Japanese saws. They are very thin. They are pull saws instead of push saws.
Their teeth are very fragile and can break when they encounter metal.
As a beginner on using this saws:
  • I am not nailing the pieces.
  • Currently has only the 90 degree.
How it was done.
1) Prepare the sandpaper.
With the issue of bringing outside the tools and material, a piece of MDF (could be of other material but it is what I have at home) was covered with sandpaper: 120 on one side and 180 on the other side.
Use the sandpaper at your discretion during the build.
View attachment 217106

2) Prepare the materials for the mini miter box.
  • A base
  • 2 pieces of wood. (use what you have) (A & B)
    • I got this dimensions: height 17.5 mm x width 20 mm x length 20 cm
    • In A make a mark at the middle, use the saw, but don't go all the way thru
  • 1 large wooden paint mixer (C)
    • cut to 20 cm (C)
    • keep the left over (D)
View attachment 217108

3) Glue the pieces
4) Use the Japanese saw to mark (B) and saw until there is a small indentation on (C)

View attachment 217109

Making wedges
5) Cut D to have a length of 10 cm
- place D in the box
- use the indentations on A & B as a guide
View attachment 217110

6) Mark with a pencil a line to make 2 wedges on D
I tried to use the saw to cut the wedge using the guides, but ended up doing it on the edge of the jig
See how nice the mirror image of the wood shows on the saw.
View attachment 217111

View attachment 217112

Using the jig
- The wedges can be used as a stopper
- In the image I used it to cut up to 5mm
- the wood is easy to keep in place with the left hand
View attachment 217116

The wedges can be used as a clamp
- When the wood is so wide that is difficult to keep in place with the hand, place the wedges on top to tighten up.
View attachment 217120


The complete set:
View attachment 217118
I have a soft aluminum miter box with 90 and 45 degree slots and bottom grooves for various widths of stock. My saw tops out with the blade top band so that it does not cut into the bottom of the miter. I use only the weight of the say and NO downward pressure on the pull stroke. Good idea for tapered wedge pieces where the stock widths do not match a groove if one were available. Rich (PT-2)
 
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