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Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Model Shipways) 1:24 by Roscoe

Joined
Jan 15, 2024
Messages
56
Points
88

Location
Sobieski, WI
I have started my third model in the Model Shipways series, the lobster smack. I am home for the summer so I am unable to dedicate as much time to this hobby as I did over the winter so the posts may have some lapse between them. I had a lot of fun and learned a lot building the first two in this series so I am looking forward to building this one. I found challenges right out of the dock on step 1. The instructions state to use the the spine on sheet 2 but it did not look like the picture. I discovered the spine on sheet 5 was the one that matched the manual so thats what I choose to use.

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I also wanted to try to have a moveable centerboard so I annealed and bent the brass pull rod, and cut a piece for the pivot rod. Bending the loop and bending the 90 degree hook wasn't to bad but once the hook was in the centerboard be very careful bending it up to keep it in place. The centerboard is very thin and fragile and I almost broke it when my pliers slipped. it didn't break and when I put the opposite spine halves on the centerboard moves up and down as it should. I did find the slot in the spine that the hook uses was a little narrow so I used my exacto knife and a little sandpaper to enlarge one side of the slot. Again this is very thin fragile material so be gentle and patient. I installed the reinforcing pairs A,B,C and D without problems.

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Next were the bulkhead frames. I had a problem with #4. The slot for the reinforcing block B didn't seem deep enough to allow the halves to come together as I thought they should. I ended up enlarging the slot with a small file and this allowed it to fit better. I hope this was the proper thing to do, I will find out later I guess when I try to put the decking on.

Before:

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After:

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I noticed the same thing with #9, the slot seemed to short to allow the top of the frame flush with the top of the spine so I filed that deeper as well.. again I hope this was correct.

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I have glued the transom pieces together and frame #10 to the spine.

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I will be working on the cockpit seats next.
 
I also did not see any reference to the pivot rod in the instructions. I probably should have annealed it too, because it is impossible to crimp. And I had the same problem with the bulkhead frames #4 need a little enlarging. So far so good. Onward through the fog.
 
Thanks Rob, yes, I learned a lot from doing the Dory and the Pram. I am building confidence and skills and am not so worried about making a mistake.
I have made some progress on my build. I forgot to take a picture but I decided to glue the aft and side seats together before installing and installed them as 1 piece instead of 3. (I got the idea from priority_aces1 who did this for the deck). This worked out good for me and I got a nice clean joint. Once the seats were glued in place I installed the seat back. I also took the tip from the instructions and decided on a color for the deck and seats and applied those before installing also. First I applied a coat of shellac as a sealer and then used red mahogany stain for the seats and colonial maple stain for the deck.

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Because gluing the seats together worked good for me I decided to do the same with the deck. I glued the 2 halves together and then installed it as 1 piece instead of 2. I used a piece of dowel as the instructions suggested to align the mast. Installing it this way worked good for me. I also sealed it with shellac and then stained it with colonial walnut before I glued it on the frames.

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Faring the hull. This went ok, but I did end up getting a little aggressive and broke one the of frames. I was able to glue it back together without a problem. At first I didn't understand the instructions about using a dowel sanding stick in the "hollow areas", but I soon discovered it was for the aft frames 7 & 8 which are rounded. I also think I messed up around the transom when I installed frame 9 & 10. There is a gap between the spine and the inside of the transom and also the decking didn't touch the transom so I glued in some scraps of wood to fill in the gaps.

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I installed the Stern, Keel, Sternpost and aft end plank. The instructions were slightly confusing until I cut the pieces out and started to fit them onto the spine, then it made sense how they fit together. I was concerned I wouldn't be able to paint the centerboard completely after the stern was installed so I decided to paint it before I did. I will be painting the bottom of my hull a color called Wild Ginger.

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I am now starting the planking. I just finished soaking the garboard planks in hot water and they are drying. I am trying to shape both sides of the hull at the same time. It seems to be working ok for the shaping step, but will have to see if it will be possible when I start gluing the planks down.

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This is where I am currently at. I will post again after I get a few rows of planks on to show my progress.
 
Thank you very much! Following you closely. Good tips! I think I might have to fashion a longer brass rod for the centerboard though. From what I’m seeing.
Larro, I thought the same thing about the length of the rod before I installed the deck. My rod was the same length as pattern on page 5 and it looks like mine will be fine. Also, when you start faring the frames you may want to extend the marks on the 3 frames that have them for planking guides. I started to sand them off and caught it before it was to late. I am unsure what they are for yet but I didn't want to loose them.
 
Larro, I thought the same thing about the length of the rod before I installed the deck. My rod was the same length as pattern on page 5 and it looks like mine will be fine. Also, when you start faring the frames you may want to extend the marks on the 3 frames that have them for planking guides. I started to sand them off and caught it before it was too late. I am unsure what they are for yet but I didn't want to loose them.
Yea, my rod looked the same length as booklet. But it looks shorter than yours. I guess I’ll find out before I glue on the deck. What does “faring the frames” mean?
 
Yea, my rod looked the same length as booklet. But it looks shorter than yours. I guess I’ll find out before I glue on the deck. What does “faring the frames” mean?
Hey Larro, sorry, I was referring to Step 9: Fairing the hull. basically sanding the bevels on the frames to give the strakes (planks) more surface than just the edge.
 
Larro, I thought the same thing about the length of the rod before I installed the deck. My rod was the same length as pattern on page 5 and it looks like mine will be fine. Also, when you start faring the frames you may want to extend the marks on the 3 frames that have them for planking guides. I started to sand them off and caught it before it was to late. I am unsure what they are for yet but I didn't want to loose them.
Great advice on extending the marks! I almost sanded them off too. In fact, I already broke out the pencil to correct one by instinct. I figure they’ll be for planking maybe?
 
I am learning that planking a ship is not the funnest part of the build. I am pretty happy with how its progressing, but it appears I didn't do something correct at the stern and had to modify my planks to get the best fit I could. I think this may have been caused by not having the last two frames flush with the bottom of the spine. I am moving forward with what I have and not going to redo anything. I believe wood filler will fix my errors and everything will look fine in the end.

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6 more strakes to go.
 
Having done my first planking, I understand all too well. There are many great tutorials here and on you tube that I suggest you see.



This 4 part video by Chuck Passaro is invaluable


There are many others! Also remember there seems to be multiple ways of planking "correctly".

Tapering some of the planks is very important. Also don't forget to bevel the planks as they lie next to each other so they fit more tightly. If you haven't done so I think soaking them in hot water is very helpful. Some also use ammonia to make the planks more workable.
 
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Hope it all goes well, Roscoe! Will follow with interest. I really enjoyed my Lobster Smack build. Continued to learn a lot in what was my 2nd model ship build.
 
Its been a while since I've updated my build, things have been busy and I haven't taken a lot of time on my boat. Since my last post I have finished planking the hull. Overall I am happy with how it turned out. I had some issues on the transom but tried to fill it with wood filler the best I could.

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I have sanded and filled the hull, added the toe and rub rails, installed the Farileads and the Oarlock pads.

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The Samson post is giving me issues, I broke it in half twice now and glued it back together. I think I have it now so it will fit thru the deck but I still need to add the brass rod. I will be working on the coaming for the cockpit next.

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I have made more progress on my ship. Completed the cabin sides, these were a little challenging, the curve was quite steep and it took a little patience and finageling but I think it turned out nice. I also completed the wet well covers, cabin bulkhead, cabin roof, sliding hatch cover, beakhead, and rudder. I built the display pedestals. Masking the toe and rub rail's were a pain, I wish I would have maybe stained them prior to installing, but it turned out ok. The waterline marking device seemed very high to me. I taped the pencil lower on the device than at the top like the instructions suggested and I am happy with how the waterline turned out.

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Here is where I am at today. I painted the top of the hull French Vanilla, and the bottom Wild Ginger. I stained the toe and rub rails Red Mahagany. The sides of the cockpit and samsom post is also French Vanilla.

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I will be working on the bobstay eyebolt, traveler, and tiller next.
 
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