My Blandford Build Log 1/32

Peglegreg

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G'day Joe
Brilliant job on the frames mate.
It's too late for you, but this idea might help others. When I 'glue' paper to the timber to cut out the shapes, I use rubber cement. It's very secure and the paper doesn't crinkle. But the best thing it's very easy to remove after cutting with no residue is left on the timber.
By the way my fingers are itchy to start my own build on this build as everyone is going a bonza (great) job on their respective builds.
Happymodeling
Greg
 

epicdoom

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Thank You Folks for the complements
Greg the Glue I used was dollar store spray adhesive its junk but it glues paper down but barely making it easy to remove most of it just pealed right off some places I lightly scraped and it came off.

I had an issue with setting my frames. The Plumb bob I had was to long and heavy so I was unable to set the frames. I ordered and received today a new tiny one for building Doll houses its just a little bigger then a AAA battery, so now I can get to setting my frames and laying out my keel notches. I put everything with the build on hold till I get that step done as its an extremely important step. so tomorrow I'll clean up all my frames and start setting them. I set them in place as a dry fit and shes looking like my jig is gonna work out fine. here is the BOB I bought
20181022_200117.jpg
 

epicdoom

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that's used to plumb the frames so you know they are straight up and down I'll show the whole process to level and plumb the frames you could use a level for this process, but its not easily done with the build jig in place. I'll show how I square the frame and plumb it true standing straight up. I have all the frames cleaned up. and Im making the spreaders right now.
 

epicdoom

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OK so first thing I did was lay the frames back on the build templates and marked the center line at the Keel and also the cut off line at the tops of the frames. I used a square to extend the lines everything above the lines at the top will get cut off, but not yet.
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Next thing I had to do is figure out the amount of offset that would be in the strings thickness. I took that measurement and transferred it to my frame at the keel end of each frame. Notice the center line is now forward of dead center on the frame joint.
20181023_184738.jpg
Now the aggravation begins, I set my level on the table and made sure it was perfectly level and it was as I have taken steps long ago to ensure I always had a level surface to do my work on. next was to make sure my Building jig was level at the top plate. Jig top was perfectly level. I installed a couple clamps to hold the spreader rite on the lines I drew earlier on the frame tops/tips I used my level on top of each spreader to ensure the spreader was level for each frame I set. I was lucky that all fell where only a slight nudge was needed to level off the frame side to side once it was nice and level I installed the Plumb bob laying it in the groove in the spreader and taking several wraps with the end of the string to hold it securely in place. I set the whole assembly directly in front of me reinstalled the level on the spreader and nudged the bottoms of the frames at the keel end forward and backwards till my plumb bob found the mark I made earlier. once it was set I installed a small block behind the frame as a holder of its placement and a separator since I had to cut those off my jig top to get it all to work. I went down the line doing this for each frame till all were set in place perfectly level and plumb. I then marked each frames location on the keel so it can be notched out. I'll do that tomorrow and then cut my rabbit in the keel and start gluing the frames to it. Right now they all fit nicely with a little friction and will stand on there own. I used 20181023_184026.jpg20181023_183751.jpg20181023_193506.jpg20181023_193529.jpg
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Tomorrow Ill pull it all back apart notch the keel put my bolts in place reassemble it all back together with glue.
 
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DocBlake

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Everything looks good, Joe!

You guys have inspired me. I brought my Blandford out and am ready to start gluing frames to my keel. I had to make frame 7 over again, because of poor fit in the jig. It had to be my fault but the frame wasn't wide enough. I used the template for frame 6 to make a new frame 7 and it fit nice and snug. My testing of the fairness of the frames confirms it was the right call. Gremlins seem to get into these builds, somehow!
 

epicdoom

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Everything looks good, Joe!

You guys have inspired me. I brought my Blandford out and am ready to start gluing frames to my keel. I had to make frame 7 over again, because of poor fit in the jig. It had to be my fault but the frame wasn't wide enough. I used the template for frame 6 to make a new frame 7 and it fit nice and snug. My testing of the fairness of the frames confirms it was the right call. Gremlins seem to get into these builds, somehow!
Damn Gremlins mess with us all Brother. My Gremlins are usually my own fault. I have to remind myself to slow down, my mind races a hundred miles an hour, but my hands can only work at 50, I get way ahead of myself. I have some clean up on the frames to do yet I noticed a few areas I'm not happy with so back to some sanding this time by hand since I'm pretty close to where it should be to look nice. My wife thinks I'm nuts trying to make areas look good that I'm just gonna cover up with planks, but I know its not right and I cant wrap my head around leaving it that way. I'll spend the evening getting the frames the way I want them and hopefully cut my Keels rabbit. I'll then be done with this build for a few days while I work on another Project. I build several things at once to mix it up a bit as in the past I get tired of doing one thing and just stop doing it all together for a few months. It's also nice to work on something difficult like planking then something fun so I try and plan my build segments around that principle, so I get a reward for doing something I dislike lol
 

Donnie

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Joe, I love your techniques. I have a question. Since Mike41 designed this,,,well,,,, this project was born with a lot of tears and redoing things. Many people here contributed to making the project successful as it is.
1) Now, I am asking: did you have any problems with the patterns fitting correctly? I mean within reason and no gross errors.
2) I can't remember from your images, did you used the "stepped" keel ? Some people I think made the sweep curve on the keel instead of "stepped" like it is on the plans.
3) I really like the way you put the spacers (jig) after the fact. You don't have to worry about cutting out all those blasted notches. (sorry Mike41) ---making that jig is one thing I was not looking forward to.
4) you say that you used Poplar for the frames ?
5) How did you install your bolts without "smearing" the metal. The last time I used black annealed wire for the treenails and sanded it, it ruined some of my planking as the metal smeared into the wood when I sanded over the metal treenails.

I really want to get his Felipe off my bench so I can do this project. I just can't for some reason work on more than one project at a time.
 

epicdoom

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Thank you Brother
1) frames fit together pretty well IMHO that could be subjective to how well one cuts out the frame parts.
2) I followed the plans and used a stepped keel. I'm a stickler for following plans to the letter.
3) I would have had those spacers in place on mine. let me explain the first set of prints I had done were perfect in size printed 1-1 ratio but when I glued down the jig sheet to the 1/4" ply for the jig top I ended up askew attempts to straighten it proved to be difficult and resulted in me distorting the print and eventually tearing it. I learned a valuable lesson. To always cut the wood I'm gluing to larger then needed in case I mess up. I didn't do that I cut the top ti the exact size. So i had to have that plan reprinted. When I had that done I found the new print was much smaller then the first one by a 1/4" both width and length. So I pasted the sheet to the board. So I had to expand the drawing by an 1/8" all the way around which ment I had to cut the spacers off. And add them later as I plumbed the frames in
4) I chose poplar because it was readily available in 1/4" thickness and it's a nice crisp edge wood.
5) I used music wire in the proper diameter for the bolts that I black oxide coated. Black oxide sticks to steel surfaces very well what I didnt account for was sanding and I sanded it off the end of the wire so I had to use an ultra fine sharpie to touch it up. Was a delicate operation because poplar will absorb the ink and leach it into the fibers badly.

All in all the build so far has gone pretty good and I'm close to switching back over and completing more of that build. I think Mike did a good job with the plans. They are easy to follow and pretty accurate so far as it relates to fitting together.
 

Donnie

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Can you give me a quick tutorial on this Black Oxide ? What do I need to buy and how do I use it ?

I used Birchwood Casey - horrible results. Powdery results - rubs off too easy. Of course my preps were not the beat in the world, but the parts were cleaned. I actually put my cannons on the lathe and used 1000 grit until the brass was like a mirror. Still no good coat. Still powdery and rubs off.
 

epicdoom

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Black oxide is for ferrous metals. there are 2 methods for doing a black oxide finish one is the hot method the other is cold method. I used to do the hot method but the chemicals for that process are fairly caustic and it has to be done at boiling temps so it has inherent dangers. I switched to the cold method and IMO its just as good, but much safer. I use a company named EPI for the supplies here is the link to that site https://www.epi.com/black-oxide/steel/room/insta-blak-333/ you can buy a complete kit that gives you cleaners and blackening agent. instructions are easy to follow, But you will need some plastic containers for the solutions and its as easy as dipping a donut in coffee. I have done a whole AR15 and an AR10 with just 1 kit each so for tiny bits like we use, the kit will last for dozens of ship builds. the kit usually runs around $40-45 and they usually have discount codes on the site at checkout. I do a good bit of Gun Smithing, full firearm builds and restores so I use black oxide, Cerakote, Duracote, Parkerizing, bluing and even hydro-dipping to finish the metals.

Brass is a whole other animal and I have good results using the Birchwood Casey Brass black on large parts, but I don't mirror polish them. I work the surface down to 1000 grit wet sanding and clean the part in acetone really good then I heat the part up to around 140*F I dip the part in the brass black swishing it back and forth till its as black as I want it, then I run it under cold clean water to rinse it and I use gun oil or wax to seal it. it works good on large parts like rifle frames and trigger guards stuff like that but I haven't had a lot of luck using it on small ship parts, however I don't heat the parts nor do I sand them down to 1000 grit like I do a large part. for cannons I have tried sanding them to 500 grit only to see if giving a tooth to the metal surface would help hold the finish and it did hold up better then not sanding. I didn't heat the cannons and I didn't seal the surface with wax or oil though and eventually the black would scratch off if mishandled. using oil to seal it may have worked, but I didn't want to have to clean all the oil off the parts so they could be glued. there is a lot of good Info on Black oxide finishing on youtube. if you buy a kit from EPI though you really wont need to do a lot of video watching the instructions with the kit are great and easily understood. This Blandford Build is the first time I have used Black Oxide finished metals on a ship construction I chose to do that finish because I was using music wire in the right diameter which I figured would hold up better then Brass black on brass to simulate the bolts.
 
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