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You can try to make one yourself, I have seen @ shipphotographer.com, use a tool she has made of plexiglass, to press the nails in place.
Unfortunately I do not remember which post she showed it in, possible that a moderator knows it, greetings-
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Unfortunately I do not remember which post she showed it in, possible that a moderator knows it, greetings-
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I have two nail pushers, but I can't remember where I bought them. The orange one is for larger nails which have larger heads, and the wooden one is used with the fine 7mm Amati pins which are my favorite because they don't split wood. Neither are magnetic, and don't need to be because you use brass pins. It's not a good idea to use steel pins in a model because it promotes iron poisoning of the wood, evident by black stains.
May be can I suggest you this plier. I never used nail pusher since I purchased one from MicroMark.
Michel
Michel
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Amazon has one For $10.95 w free Prime shipping. Listed under “Nail and Brad Driver”. Ive found a number of hobby tools at Amazon for a lot less than MicroMark and w free Prime shipping.
I tried to find it on Amazon (.com) and did not found it. Did you made a recent search ?
Michel
Michel
Do not miss also this topic, where we discussed a similar subject, in order to get more information
Hand held Nailer
Does anyone know of a nailer that you can load the tool with a nail (and the nail stays in the tool) and then push the nail in - let's say that you only have one hand to do this while you are holding the plank in place with the other hand. I am helping a friend with a project. I know of like...
shipsofscale.com
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It's on 'planking the Coureur' youtube video I seem to remember. My personal opinion is use wire not the out of scale kit pins, so a pin pusher is not needed, as on Olha's video. There are better methods for planking that don't damage the timber.
On Amazon also search “nail/brad pusher” Several good options are listed…
I have tried nail pushers and have had mixed results. Most kits provide brass nails and these are easily bent with a nail pusher. Best results for me is drilling a small hole to get the nail in position and finish with a small hammer.
Bill Williamson
If the nails are bent using the nail pusher, the nails are too small for the pusher, the nails are thick and you're pushing into hard wood or into a something hard like another nail, or the tip of the pusher shifted position while pushing the nail. The Amati fine 7mm pins are the best nails I've used since they enter the wood without splitting it and with minimal friction.
There are times when using a needle nose pliers to hold the nail, and tapping it into the wood with a tack hammer are preferable. One of these is when you are nailing the lower ends of the chain plates to the wale on the hull. To keep the chain plate taut, you have to pull it taut with the tip of the nail which is held in the pliers, then tap the nail into the hull with the hammer. This way the chain plate has little or no slack, and when the lower deadeye is lashed to the upper one, the shroud tension will not lift the lower deadeye off the channel and create a gap there between the deadeye and the channel.
To reinforce the above-depending on wood and position, pre-drill.
Otherwise pliers - sometimes with pin at 90degrees. and hold near point to prevent bending and push in by stages, or if room, tap with hammer.
The pin pushes I have used leave a "halo" around the inserted pin head.
Therefore are mainly useful for temporary pinning while glue dries or where this this effect will be unseen
Otherwise pliers - sometimes with pin at 90degrees. and hold near point to prevent bending and push in by stages, or if room, tap with hammer.
The pin pushes I have used leave a "halo" around the inserted pin head.
Therefore are mainly useful for temporary pinning while glue dries or where this this effect will be unseen