Hallo and welcome on board of our forum.
In my opinion and based on my experience.
Easy and quick is only a dremel / Proxxon with a foot pedal - choose a Dremel, which is as light as possible to be more accurate. Also helping is to mark the location of the hole before with a small pressed dott by using a scriber.
but definitely it is not so accurate like drilling by hand with a pin vice.
I am drilling my holes, also for the complete treenailing of decks and hull, by hand to be as accurate as possible - takes time, but you are more shure not to damage the wood - and you are killing less drills
In my opinion and based on my experience.
Easy and quick is only a dremel / Proxxon with a foot pedal - choose a Dremel, which is as light as possible to be more accurate. Also helping is to mark the location of the hole before with a small pressed dott by using a scriber.
but definitely it is not so accurate like drilling by hand with a pin vice.
I am drilling my holes, also for the complete treenailing of decks and hull, by hand to be as accurate as possible - takes time, but you are more shure not to damage the wood - and you are killing less drills
I have over the years purchased a number of drilling tools. The one's I use most are the manual pin vice type with a ball handle. They seem to fit my hand nicely and are convenient for when just a couple or 10 holes are required.
I found that the corded Foredom, with a foot speed control is the best, most durable electric tool. I use a teeny 3 jaw chuck with a 1/8" stem in it. Top notch for cutting and grinding.
The cordless dremel with a mini 3 jaw chuck works well too. This one is the #8050, has 5 speeds, 5000 to 28000 rpm. A bit fast for drilling, but manageable. I broke the plastic internal part that locks the spindle during tool changes so I have to fiddle with it now. I think this was discontinued and replaces with a better design. $100.00 plus dollars.
That said, I found a couple other tools, both inexpensive, at Harbor Freight.
The red one is a bit bulky, but has two speeds, 5000 and 10,000 rpm, with a low speed - off - high speed switch. takes 4 AA batteries, but it works pretty well where the work is fairly easy to get at.
The gray one is actually a small power screwdriver. Runs on 2 AAA batteries at a somewhat over 100 rpm, the switch is a forward and reverse but you have to hold it in the forward or reverse position to make it run. I hold it with my thumb on the switch and my first two fingers gripping it in the light grey area, kinda like a pencil. I installed a mini 3 jaw chuck on it as well. Comes with an assortment of small driver bits. This one is a bit slow drilling but easier on the fingers and much easier to control. I use this one quite a bit.
I found that the corded Foredom, with a foot speed control is the best, most durable electric tool. I use a teeny 3 jaw chuck with a 1/8" stem in it. Top notch for cutting and grinding.
The cordless dremel with a mini 3 jaw chuck works well too. This one is the #8050, has 5 speeds, 5000 to 28000 rpm. A bit fast for drilling, but manageable. I broke the plastic internal part that locks the spindle during tool changes so I have to fiddle with it now. I think this was discontinued and replaces with a better design. $100.00 plus dollars.
That said, I found a couple other tools, both inexpensive, at Harbor Freight.
The red one is a bit bulky, but has two speeds, 5000 and 10,000 rpm, with a low speed - off - high speed switch. takes 4 AA batteries, but it works pretty well where the work is fairly easy to get at.
The gray one is actually a small power screwdriver. Runs on 2 AAA batteries at a somewhat over 100 rpm, the switch is a forward and reverse but you have to hold it in the forward or reverse position to make it run. I hold it with my thumb on the switch and my first two fingers gripping it in the light grey area, kinda like a pencil. I installed a mini 3 jaw chuck on it as well. Comes with an assortment of small driver bits. This one is a bit slow drilling but easier on the fingers and much easier to control. I use this one quite a bit.
Let me add my 2 cents to this topic. If you are drilling a hole that is 1mm deep, you only need 1mm of drill sticking out of the chuck. With the real small drill bits we use to mount eye rings, etc, the longer the drill bit the more chance of breaking it. Looking up to previous pictures, those two drills on the right are candidates for breaking.
I am frequently amused by some of the comments made in relation to drilling scale holes into our models. We have available a wide range of drilling options including Dremels or extension cable chucks to hold our bits. In my experience, as said in an earlier post, these are either too large to accurately hold, angle and position as well as being so powerful that even the smallest off centre hole causes an irretrievable, damaged result. The other extreme which I personally find difficult to use, are pin drills. To me, these are too light, slow, and difficult in awkward places.
So, my comment is to look to engraving tools. These tools when used as drills are very light, small and accurate. An example of these is on Amazon at this link but there is a wide variety to choose from, both mains powered or battery. Do a Google search for ‘engraving tools’.
I have one I have used for many years which is small, fits into my hand comfortably and has a small controller to vary the low voltage and so allow slow or high drilling speeds. It came with a range of interchangeable chuck sizes to firmly hold even the smallest of drill bits.
Trust this idea helps,
Regards,
PeterG
So, my comment is to look to engraving tools. These tools when used as drills are very light, small and accurate. An example of these is on Amazon at this link but there is a wide variety to choose from, both mains powered or battery. Do a Google search for ‘engraving tools’.
I have one I have used for many years which is small, fits into my hand comfortably and has a small controller to vary the low voltage and so allow slow or high drilling speeds. It came with a range of interchangeable chuck sizes to firmly hold even the smallest of drill bits.
Trust this idea helps,
Regards,
PeterG
That seems like a great idea PeterG, but when I looked online at some of those tools, it appears to me that there is no chuck as such, but rather a receiver that is sized to take the tools that come with the engraver. That would mean that the shanks of drill bits would be generally too small to be held. Is there a solution to this problem? One of the tools I looked at had a minimum speed of 3000 RPM. That seems more suitable than most with a min speed of 5000. But the aforementioned problem still applies.
Yep, I recognise that the 'chuck vs drill bit' issue is a problem, but there are engraving tools out there that can accept, or that come with variable size chucks (eg here) - mine has it and I can accept bits to very small sizes as well as up to about 5mm.
One possible solution to this issue, is that you can also buy any number of keyless small chuck fittings such as here. A second range of chucks are here. The shanks of these chucks are similar in size diameter to the 'engraver' tool and they are interchangeable. This then lets you fit your bits. I have a speed controller between the low voltage output of my engraver power supply/transformer too which allows me to go infinitely controllable between about 100 rpm up to 3000 rpm.
PeterG
One possible solution to this issue, is that you can also buy any number of keyless small chuck fittings such as here. A second range of chucks are here. The shanks of these chucks are similar in size diameter to the 'engraver' tool and they are interchangeable. This then lets you fit your bits. I have a speed controller between the low voltage output of my engraver power supply/transformer too which allows me to go infinitely controllable between about 100 rpm up to 3000 rpm.
PeterG
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Sorry I think I posted this in another thread.
In any case I found this tool very useful both for drilling and general sanding etc.
I got it on eBay. This search will get you in the right area for tools like this.
"3.7V 35W Mini Electric Drill Cordless Grinder Polisher Engraving Pen Rotary Kits"
In any case I found this tool very useful both for drilling and general sanding etc.
I got it on eBay. This search will get you in the right area for tools like this.
"3.7V 35W Mini Electric Drill Cordless Grinder Polisher Engraving Pen Rotary Kits"
Thanks PeterG. I have just ordered the Hardell machine from Amazon USA. Can you give me a link to a speed controller. I assume it must be matched to the input voltage of the device.
Thanks for your reply. I have just ordered a similar device from Amazon, but with seven different chucks to take drill bits down to 0.5 mm.Sorry I think I posted this in another thread.
In any case I found this tool very useful both for drilling and general sanding etc.
I got it on eBay. This search will get you in the right area for tools like this.
"3.7V 35W Mini Electric Drill Cordless Grinder Polisher Engraving Pen Rotary Kits"
Harbor freight sells a little drill 'kit' for less than 10 bucks (30% off if you buy tomorrow, Sunday). This drill is small, light, cheap and durable if you don't try to ;horse' it. I use this drill for drilling holes for fasteners in decks and hulls. For me, It handles drills size 74,73,72,71 perfectly; without a foot pedal. I bought 4 of these 10 years ago (for 8 bucks each). Still using the first unit I opened. My current project requires about 25,000 dowels total (I have put in about 5,000 dowels to date). I certainly am not going to use a pin vise. I use this drill only for fastener at 1/48 scale.To date this drill has probably drilled 35,000 fastener holes, I put in about 150 dowels per hour (I use both copper wire and wood). My process is complicated, but it works (to perfection if you are careful).
It is accurate (depends upon how good your eye sight and eye hand coordination is). Get one and try it.
Hi Digger,
There are a range of these available (search ‘small motor speed control circuit’). My engraver is a 12v DC output from its transformer (most are), so I built an NE555 controller which allows a potentiometer to increase or decrease the speed. There are plenty of NE555 circuits on the web, plus videos as to how to build them.
My engraver I bought years ago made by Arlec (an Australian brand I think).
To buy one off a supplier however is also an option if you are not confident in building your own. Jaycar sell them, as do Amazon. Again, a web search can give a you a range for only a few dollars.
Regards,
PeterG
Oh, PS - Have a wonderful Christmas everybody….
There are a range of these available (search ‘small motor speed control circuit’). My engraver is a 12v DC output from its transformer (most are), so I built an NE555 controller which allows a potentiometer to increase or decrease the speed. There are plenty of NE555 circuits on the web, plus videos as to how to build them.
My engraver I bought years ago made by Arlec (an Australian brand I think).
To buy one off a supplier however is also an option if you are not confident in building your own. Jaycar sell them, as do Amazon. Again, a web search can give a you a range for only a few dollars.
Regards,
PeterG
Oh, PS - Have a wonderful Christmas everybody….
Depends on the application, I would say. Are you drilling pinrails? Into a mast/yard? etc.
For pinrails I used pinvise. for something less precise, like mast or yard for example, I can get away with a Dremmel at it's slowest speed.
If you don't mind spending even more money, you could always consider a proxxon mill, which has an XY table with it.
For pinrails I used pinvise. for something less precise, like mast or yard for example, I can get away with a Dremmel at it's slowest speed.
If you don't mind spending even more money, you could always consider a proxxon mill, which has an XY table with it.
Thanks again PeterG. I will visit Jaycar when my unit arrives.
Thank you also Jack. A Proxxon with XY table would be nice, but I am finding myself concentrating more on tools that model building. I need to concentrate more on being a builder and less a collector.
Thank you also Jack. A Proxxon with XY table would be nice, but I am finding myself concentrating more on tools that model building. I need to concentrate more on being a builder and less a collector.
There is a company called Yakamoz that makes simple, single speed hobby drills. On/off. They are slower speed than a DremeI. I bought one several months back. The description below is from Amazon and is the battery version. I use this small hand held drill all the time with the very small micro drill bits. I highly recommend this as an option that you may well find suits you. It has collets like a Dremel. Search the following on Amazon…
Yakamoz Mini DIY Hand Drill Battery Powered Rechargeable Cordless Micro Electric Rotary Drill with 2pcs Batteries & 15pcs Drill Bits | Battery Charger...
Yakamoz Mini DIY Hand Drill Battery Powered Rechargeable Cordless Micro Electric Rotary Drill with 2pcs Batteries & 15pcs Drill Bits | Battery Charger...
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Thanks! I looked at that earlier and wasn’t sure if it was worth it. I’ll give it a try!
Hallo @Laggard
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
and? which way was for you finaly the best for drilling the holes?
1. It depends upon the size drill you are going to use.
2. For holes in the drill sizes 60-80 I use a $10 hand held drill from Harbor Freight. It is small light and easy to control.
I use it a lot for drilling trunnel holes. My current model has about 26,000 holes for trunnels. I keep several spares on hand.
3. For larger holes I use a drill press. I also have Dremel and Foredom tools which I seldom use.
2. For holes in the drill sizes 60-80 I use a $10 hand held drill from Harbor Freight. It is small light and easy to control.
I use it a lot for drilling trunnel holes. My current model has about 26,000 holes for trunnels. I keep several spares on hand.
3. For larger holes I use a drill press. I also have Dremel and Foredom tools which I seldom use.