Oliver Cromwell, POF ,Scale 1:48 by Lawrence [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi Lawrence, sorry to hear of the shingles I know it all too well ,took me about three weeks to recover and I remember my skin being so sensitive that I couldn’t even wear a shirt, so I’m hoping that you are now feeling better have have some more energy. I have been away from the site for a while so possibly have missed a lot of stuff but I found images of your gun part hinges very helpful as I am about to make some rudder hinges for a Couta Boat that I am scratch building. The shots of hole drilling in the brass strip particularly interest me because I think that you are using a milling machine to get accuracy, currently I only have dremel in a drill press and am worried that I will not be able to maintain a centreline drilled hole. Do you have to centre punch the hole positions or does the milling machine and attendant vice negate that ? all of the best, Tony
 
The link to Harold that Dave put up earlier does not jump the internet quicksand. Is there another one more current? PT-2
http://www.navyboardmodels.com/Articles/h_hahn
Hello PT-2, I thank you very much for your visit to my build log and also for your nice comments. I believe that this is Dave Stevens link that you are looking for, http://www.navyboardmodels.com/Articles/h_hahn , If not you can always PM him, Dave is very helpful and very willing to help hid ship mates.
Regards Lawrence
 
LED Labor Exclusively Demanded . .. . ships boys required to provide the energy and power for the illumination??? PT-2
LED Labor Exclusively Demanded . .. . ships boys required to provide the energy and power for the illumination??? PT-2
Hello PT-2, I got all of my Led Lighting from one of SOS sponsors, Evans Designs, these people are willing to help and will supply all of your lighting needs, please check them out.
Yes a lot of the insides of these ships were very similar in there lay outs, the larger ships of course did have a lot more detail.
Regards Lawrence
 
Nice that you feel better now, looking forward to updates, regards Knut-
Hello Knut, I thank you for your visit and also for your very kind words and pick era- uppers. Yes I have been working a little on my build the Oliver Cromwell, not much but a little. The little fellows and I are working on the rowing ports and there hinges that are quite tiny, hope to have an up date in a day or so.
Regards Lawrence
 
Hi Lawrence, sorry to hear of the shingles I know it all too well ,took me about three weeks to recover and I remember my skin being so sensitive that I couldn’t even wear a shirt, so I’m hoping that you are now feeling better have have some more energy. I have been away from the site for a while so possibly have missed a lot of stuff but I found images of your gun part hinges very helpful as I am about to make some rudder hinges for a Couta Boat that I am scratch building. The shots of hole drilling in the brass strip particularly interest me because I think that you are using a milling machine to get accuracy, currently I only have dremel in a drill press and am worried that I will not be able to maintain a centreline drilled hole. Do you have to centre punch the hole positions or does the milling machine and attendant vice negate that ? all of the best, Tony
Hello Tony W, I thank you for your visit to my build log and also for your very kind and understanding words. Yes these shingles have set me back around 6 weeks now and all though the are still very sour, I am starting to feel like working again in my Old Ship Yard. Still get tired very easily but improving daily.
I tend to use my L.S. Starrett Co Ltd, Scriver to center punch the wholes in the thin strips. The brass strips is quite soft and dose not hurt it's fine point, I find this a very helpful tool, one that is left over from my working days. Will attach a picture. I also use a little Dremel but there speed is to fast, I put a drop of thin oil on the drill to cool the drill and helps the cutting, hope this helps. The mill would be ideal but have not figured a way to hold the thin narrow brass strips.
Regards Lawrence
 
Were you a machinist in your earlier years to have developed such skills and determination to bring the smallest of working parts to life? Amazing. Maybe the forced time off with a lot of outside support gave you the energy and focus for the hinges. Your craftsmanship inspires us all. PT-2
Hello PT-2, No my mane job was in compressing molding and later in injection molding running and servicing these machines, I did have the full run of our machine shop, lathes, mill, service grinder and so on. In my spare time I did help out with the matence of our production machines that were mostly home built.
Regards LawrenceIMG_5780.JPG
 
http://www.navyboardmodels.com/Articles/h_hahn
Hello PT-2, I thank you very much for your visit to my build log and also for your nice comments. I believe that this is Dave Stevens link that you are looking for, http://www.navyboardmodels.com/Articles/h_hahn , If not you can always PM him, Dave is very helpful and very willing to help hid ship mates.
Regards Lawrence
Thank you but your link also comes up on my computer as "cannot be found". Hopefully not lost at sea! PT-2
 
Hello Tony W, I thank you for your visit to my build log and also for your very kind and understanding words. Yes these shingles have set me back around 6 weeks now and all though the are still very sour, I am starting to feel like working again in my Old Ship Yard. Still get tired very easily but improving daily.
I tend to use my L.S. Starrett Co Ltd, Scriver to center punch the wholes in the thin strips. The brass strips is quite soft and dose not hurt it's fine point, I find this a very helpful tool, one that is left over from my working days. Will attach a picture. I also use a little Dremel but there speed is to fast, I put a drop of thin oil on the drill to cool the drill and helps the cutting, hope this helps. The mill would be ideal but have not figured a way to hold the thin narrow brass strips.
Regards Lawrence
I am glad to read of you recommendation to use some oil to cool a drill bit rotating too fast. I am only now beginning to move from my hand pin vise bits to an electrical drill. I have a Dremel which I have only used for shaping. A current focus will be to find a way to work wood purchased blocks from the squared/drill hole for a smooth sheave type of entry and exit fall. My small bits tend to want to follow the cutting helix and take off from the line that I want to create. Do you have recommendation for some type of grinder bit for 3 mm sheaves? Thanks for your consideration and guidance. PT-2
 
Hello PT-2, I do not know exactly what you mean in your quote My small bits tend to want to follow the cutting helix and take off from the line that I want to create. Do you have recommendation for some type of grinder bit for 3 mm sheaves? Are you building rigging blocks or maybe the catheads?
Regards Lawrence
 
Hello Lawrence, Thank you for your reply and the photo and information about drilling the brass strip, my dremel has a speed control so I will remember to run it slow and add some light oil, very helpful. Your six weeks of shingles makes my three weeks of agony sound like a stroll in the park, apparently the virus stays in one’s body for life but can be so mild that one is unaware of it, I know this as I was diagnosed recently with another case of shingles but all I had was a rash and absolutely no pain or sensitivity that only lasted for about a week. Best Wishes. Tony.
 
Hello Lawrence, Thank you for your reply and the photo and information about drilling the brass strip, my dremel has a speed control so I will remember to run it slow and add some light oil, very helpful. Your six weeks of shingles makes my three weeks of agony sound like a stroll in the park, apparently the virus stays in one’s body for life but can be so mild that one is unaware of it, I know this as I was diagnosed recently with another case of shingles but all I had was a rash and absolutely no pain or sensitivity that only lasted for about a week. Best Wishes. Tony.
Hello Tony W. Do not forget to center punch your brass strips, this will make drilling much easier.

Regards Lawrence
 
I am glad to read of you recommendation to use some oil to cool a drill bit rotating too fast. I am only now beginning to move from my hand pin vise bits to an electrical drill. I have a Dremel which I have only used for shaping. A current focus will be to find a way to work wood purchased blocks from the squared/drill hole for a smooth sheave type of entry and exit fall. My small bits tend to want to follow the cutting helix and take off from the line that I want to create. Do you have recommendation for some type of grinder bit for 3 mm sheaves? Thanks for your consideration and guidance. PT-2
I also appreciate the advice. Always found drilling small brass parts very difficult, For a scriver, try your dentist for some old picks and shape if necessary
 
I also appreciate the advice. Always found drilling small brass parts very difficult, For a scriver, try your dentist for some old picks and shape if necessary
I will have to approach him about tools that he no longer uses or wants. It may be a hiding gold mine in plain view as I usually keep my eyes closed when he has my mouth wide open torqueing my mandibular joint and charging a high fee for the sadistic engagement. PT-2
 
I will have to approach him about tools that he no longer uses or wants. It may be a hiding gold mine in plain view as I usually keep my eyes closed when he has my mouth wide open torqueing my mandibular joint and charging a high fee for the sadistic engagement. PT-2
Try eyes open and mouth shut- less pain and less expense
 
Hello Ship Mates, Well it has been a very difficult month for me and my little helpers in the Old Ship Yard. Looks like we are finally wining over these very panful Shingles. We have been working on the Rowing Port doors and there Hinges. Dave Stevens over at the Lumberyard sent me a handful of Oar Locks from Harold Hahn's collection that I turned inti Hinges. My only problem was the soft solder is not really strong enough and I did have some breakage, looks like I should order a little silver and Borax to solve this problem.
The little fellows and I have built the Rowing Ports Doors and constructed there hinges and installed them. All though these doors are very much like the gun ports we did earlier there small size tends to make them much more difficult, or at least we found them to be that way.
Regards LawrenceIMG_5779.JPGIMG_5780.JPGIMG_5781.JPGIMG_5782.JPG
 
that is one fine looking ship, glad you are on the road to recovery, fantastic detail

Best,
Ed
Hello Ed, I thank you very much for your visit to my build log and also for your very kind words and comments. Yes I am starting to feel like living again, cut the grass yesterday the first time in 6 weeks, my Admiral hired a gardener to do so , and it was even enjoyable driving my garden tractor around, did a little work in the Old Ship Yard again, sure have misted that. Will have to start preparing for our fall vacation on the 29 of Aug. for two weeks up at the Byers Lodge on the French River to help my recouvery along. May even find a bit of time to work in my Old Ship Yard.
Regards Lawrence
 
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