Oneida from dlumberyard

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Jan 8, 2021
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I'll start this build with a thank you . I was thinking about the Oneida as my next build. It was suggested that the Caustic would be a better choice. Thank you all who pointed this out.
I have found many thing about my current Caustic build that are helping me with the Oneida.
The Oneida has more challenges , for me, as it doesn't have a jig . You may notice in the photo a device that I borrowed from other builds that I used to level and support each full frame while the glue dried.

P3 First frame glued.jpeg
 
WOW YOU ARE DOING ONE HELL OF A JOB ON THE ONEIDA, I HAD TO GIVE UP MY BUILD A LONG TIME AGO HAD A LOT DONE BUT NO JIG WAS A KILLER FOR ME FRAMES LEANED FORE AND AFT, PORT AND STARBOARD NOT THE FAULT OF THE LUMBERYARD JUST MY INEXPERIENCE AT THE TIME BUT IT THOUGHT ME A BIG LESSON NO REPEAT NO POF WITH OUT A JIG. GOD BLESS ALL DON
 
WOW YOU ARE DOING ONE HELL OF A JOB ON THE ONEIDA, I HAD TO GIVE UP MY BUILD A LONG TIME AGO HAD A LOT DONE BUT NO JIG WAS A KILLER FOR ME FRAMES LEANED FORE AND AFT, PORT AND STARBOARD NOT THE FAULT OF THE LUMBERYARD JUST MY INEXPERIENCE AT THE TIME BUT IT THOUGHT ME A BIG LESSON NO REPEAT NO POF WITH OUT A JIG. GOD BLESS ALL DON
Hello Don
Thank you for your thoughts and recommendation for the Caustic first.She has been a big help on Oneida. I hope this post finds you well.
 
Hello to all

With the bollard and Knightshead timber in place I proceeded with the hawse timber shaping. This is a interesting timber to shape to fit in between the knights head and last cant.

I decided to do some sanding in this area to help me see how this last piece fits.

I found that my arm can rest within the hull as I do this sanding task. I experimented and found that using small strips of wood ( about 1/4" wide , 1/16" thick and about 3-4" long ) with sand paper attached ,40 and 80 grit work in these areas. There have been many various examples within this forum on types of sanding blocks and sticks that have been very useful to me.

The sanding I'm doing shows if my shaping of wood has been successful where two pieces come together and where the gaps are.

Regards

IMG_3169.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
During the inner hull sanding I made a shift to starting the stern construction.

You'll see I've added the deadwood and started attaching the cant frames. The gap at foot of cant frame is less that at the top so I've fashioned a temporary shim
to maintain this dimension.

IMG_3191.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello to all

With the bollard and Knightshead timber in place I proceeded with the hawse timber shaping. This is a interesting timber to shape to fit in between the knights head and last cant.

I decided to do some sanding in this area to help me see how this last piece fits.

I found that my arm can rest within the hull as I do this sanding task. I experimented and found that using small strips of wood ( about 1/4" wide , 1/16" thick and about 3-4" long ) with sand paper attached ,40 and 80 grit work in these areas. There have been many various examples within this forum on types of sanding blocks and sticks that have been very useful to me.

The sanding I'm doing shows if my shaping of wood has been successful where two pieces come together and where the gaps are.

Regards

View attachment 241357
Do you have any pictures of your sanding sticks?
 
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