PE soldering

Fish&Chip

Fish&Chip

Joined
Jan 15, 2020
Messages
647
Points
308

Location
Trois-Rivières, QC
Hi,

I begin my Belem model from Artesania Latina. I have PE in this kit and it is the first time I will work with this kind of material. Wich soldering station tool can be used mostly exclusively for the Photo etch parts ? Is 60-80 buck at amazon deliver good material or should look mainly to more expensive kit ?

Thanks,

Michel
 
I use med CA glue for flat PE to plastic (bulkheads) and joints in pe such as forming a box. A light sanding helps the bond. I clean the metal with Tamiya thin cement (it's also a solvent) to get any oils or release agents off too.

For PE ship railings I've been using UV activated glue.

After shaping the railing as best I can ( I never get it quite perfect) I make a thin puddle of the glue on a plate glass about 1" or so long. Then, with tweezers, dip the edge of the railing in the glue until the whole length has a bit of it on the bottom edge. Then, holding it so that one end is where I want it, expose the glue to the UV light to set it. Only the glue exposed will set up and thats quite quickly. Then I can move down the run a bit and nudge it into position, then expose that, and so on until it's all lined up where I want it. Then go back and expose all of the glue from one end to the other, on both sides to set everything. Anything that does not get exposed to the light will not harden. This glue seems to work on metal, plastic, wood, but must be exposed enough to get the light. It's also a bit flexible so a minor bump doesn't knock it off like with ca glue. I don't use it for everything, but it's another tool that works for me in this application. I've used it when assembling those pesky radar assemblies too.

FeDKHB4.jpg


gS3Metz.jpg


EJ
 
In my opinion the flux makes or breaks the job. I use something that is similar to what Paul Budzik recommends in his video and it is fantastic.
I bought solder in bar form and flux from the pluming department of a hardware shop.
I flatten the solder bar with a heavy hammer and snip off a short length with large side cutters and apply using tweezers.
 
I hesitate now between
Weller WLC100CUL 40-Watt Soldering Station and the 70 Watt
Weller WE 1010NA Soldering Station

Is WE 1010NA overkill ?

Thanks

Michel
 
Hi Michel,
Which one you get depends on what you think you'll be soldering, if you are only ever going to solder PE then you might get away with the 40 watt one if you then start to solder heavier things you will need more power.
In my opinion I would go for the 70 watt unit more power is better for this sort of soldering.
If I recall correctly Paul in his video also recommends afast heat gun of around 110 or 120 watts.
Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Hi Michel,
I don't know the HAKKO brand, just red a review that said the temp adjustment is not very friendly on this model. Weller have a good reputation though at that price point I wonder where it is made.
I have a reasonably cheap soldering station that works fine, just read some reviews before committing, other wise Weller have the name as far as I am concerned. To summarize I would look at lower price units that have a good review if you don't want to do that stick with Weller but still read a review on that particular model.
Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
OK thanks,
I read a lot of stuff, but there is always some guys that said somethings negative on some of the amazon cheapest stuff.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top