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Plank Bending Tools

Steam is not necessary. Steam works but it is not so easy to make a steam tube and a steam source. Alternatively you can soak a plank in water then bend to the shape you want and let it air dry for overnight or heat with any kind of iron or hot air gun which is faster, easier and more effective. The hot air gun works better in my experience, including using her hair drier----> until she finds out. If edge bending, hold the wetted plank in place in a jig fixture that approximates the bend that you need.
Allan
 
I do edge bends with a clothes iron and a flat wooden board.

I wet the wood for a few minutes by wrapping a few strips in a dishcloth and trickling boiling water over it on the draining board.

I lock one end to the ‘ironing board’ with a clamp and then iron the strip while pulling it into a bend with my other hand. While it’s cooling I place jars of jam on it as non-rusting ’gravity clamps’. I’ll do a batch of twenty or so strips before I get bored.

By eyeballing it I get planks with bends that vary in radius but there’s usually one in the batch that’s about right for first planking and if not, they can always go under the iron a second time for adjustment.

For second planking it’s even easier. I use shorter, scale-length planks so each strip can be offered up to the hull to find the piece with the perfect curve.

I try not to make life unnecessarily complicated, which isn’t always easy in this hobby. ROTF
 
Thank you all for bringing up this topic as I am certainly a novice at ship building. I thought I would start with a cheap and cheerful model of The Harvey to use it to learn from my mistakes (and there were quite few). I used a soldering iron to do a Type A bend (see above messages) but to force the bend I must have been using too much force as I seemed to compress the plank in the area I was bending.
When you use steam is this from a standard clothes steam iron or is there another way to get the steam?
Welcome to the forums !
 
Blimey, a 3D printer, surely thats a bit extreme for model ship building. Out of my price range but I wouldn’t have a use for it on a kit.
Good luck with the Polaris, have not long finished my one.
Thanks for your reply.
Hahahahaha, no man, I have the printer for other things, I didn't buy it for this!!!! However, I found it an easy and inexpensive way to bend the planks, and they look perfect.
 
With water plus heat plank bending do not forget about a spring back effect. When plank dries it will somewhat want to return back to its original shape. When use a former one needs to take this into account.
 
I lock one end to the ‘ironing board’ with a clamp and then iron the strip while pulling it into a bend with my other hand.
As the bend varies from strake to strake I have been making jig fixtures, but your idea is intriguing. Maybe pencil the various curves needed on the board then bend to match the curve while drying with the iron or hot air gun. While bending a severe curve do you have problems with the plank lifting?
Thanks for the idea Smithy.
Allan

With water plus heat plank bending do not forget about a spring back effect.
This is a new one for me. I have never seen this happen in my experience if the wood has been completely heated and dry all the way through. Is it particular to any specific species or with any wood in your experience?
Thanks YT
Allan
 
I have never seen this happen in my experience if the wood has been completely heated and dry all the way through. Is it particular to any specific species or with any wood in your experience?
Some wood more than others. This is also true when bending metals. all metals will have some "spring-back". Some more than others.
What I will do usually is I'll put the wood on the frame with some minor clamps while it's still wet and let it dry in place. :)
 
This is a new one for me. I have never seen this happen in my experience if the wood has been completely heated and dry all the way through.
Hi, Allan. I must admit that I, most of the time, have not enough patience waiting for plank to get dry completely. Sometimes this resulted in unacceptable gaps between the planks and I had to do it all again. :) I cannot comment on degree of spring back effect per wood type. All I used seems to have some degree of it.
 
My new bending machine is great for normal bending of planks without soaking or heat. I hope to have a soluction for edge bending in the near future.
When I looked at the tool shown on that site, what it brings to mind are the rolling machines used in fabrication shops where metal sheets are rolled to form bespoke car bodies, or for the restoration of body panels from collector cars. In essence the same principle... applying force via a pair of rollers will induce curvature through the difference in compression on the two sides of the strip being rolled. If one could use the same basic device, but have feed rollers applied to both sides such that a taller strip could be controlled as it was fed through on its narrow edge... both before and after it comes out of the rollers... might achieve the desired outcome. In theory that should work, as even really thick plates of steel are formed into tubes in mills by a similar process. Best wishes for success with your device, and I look forward to reading of your progress in developing it.
 
I can speak for bending in furniture making. Somewhat larger materials, so both easier, but trickier in some respects. The standard method is named 'steam bending' because the timbers are steamed for a long enough period for heat to penetrate the timber, and the combination of moisture and heat induces a plasticity in the lignin which is exploited by hurriedly placing into a jig/mould, supporting the outer face with a band (of flexible metal) if necessary, then cramping into place and leaving for 24 hours. Note that it may be necessary to over bend to allow for a degree of springback when the clamps are released. Tables are published to help in gauging the allowance. Short grain timber has a higher propensity to shatter.
The reason for going through all this is to point out that compound bends are possible, and in the scale sizes we deal in, wrapping the timber in a wet cloth, and using an old fashioned heavy copper soldering iron to generate local heat, it is possible to 'iron' a plank into place, and clamp/pin it there until cold and dry.
I think we are familiar with the electric versions that apply heat and utilise the few % of moisture in the wood to aid bending. Bringing a further bend into play adds stress to the timber, and it needs to be helped by further damping. Then, of course, you need to let it dry in place.

I'd suggest making up a bit of test ship, and dropping some test planks into a shallow pan set on simmer on a hotplate. Whisk a plank out of the pan, shape it to the 'ship' and clamp it with something. Bind with string, use pins, plank clamps or whatever. See how it goes. If it works for you, then make up something with, say, copper tube as a miniature steam box over some heat.
An internet search throws up dozens of articles about the process, and details issues encountered. Just scale it all down for our needs.
 
Hey Grillpan,

plank bending is not without its problems. That's why I use this electronic plank bender with two different tips.

It is really very good.
I use the small spatula to dry the planks or to glue on wet planks. For small planks, I can also bend the planks with the tip and the rounding. For larger planks, I use the second attachment. There you can hang the plank and bend it as you need it. !!
You just have to be careful not to burn your fingers as the plank bender gets very hot. The disadvantage of the plank bender is that it cannot be switched off. It has no switch. Therefore, when you are working with it, you always have to stay with it or unplug it.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1

Plankenbieger.jpg
 
Bending wood. Encompasses a lot of different strategies. There's steaming, soaking, ironing, pinning, heat by various means. I have used them all. Time permitting, my first choice is steaming. With steaming, I can heat and soften a lot of strips at the same time. Then stack them in a form and clamp. And no matter which method you choose, you will still have to hold the wood to a certain shape in the end. For small strips, I find soaking the wood and then shaping with the 'solder' iron type of heater along with the shaping anvil to work just fine. By the way, I build fly fishing hand nets from time to time and steaming is the ONLY way to accomplish those bends. And along the topic of edge bending - there is one more method you can use. And that is laminating. Ripping the board into thin strips then gluing and clamping into shape is another way to get the final item you need. You can purchase a steam generator and build steam boxes or even use PVC pipe for a chamber.....DSCN0688.JPGDSCN0681.JPGNet4.jpgIMG_1767.JPGIMG_1367.JPGBox16.jpg20210126_160313.jpg20210128_135659.jpg
 
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