Planking question?

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Hi all,

I’m building San Felipe 1/50 and I’m in the planking phase. I was wondering whether I should apply glue in between planks or just the ribs of the ship?

Thank you,
Max
 

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Yes! ALWAYS glue the planks edge-to edge to each other. The planking becomes a solid shell, and very strong.
One thing to consider when planks are on concave or convex curves is the need to taper the edges to accomodate the angled contact faces for a tight flush fit which asssures glue penetration and adhesion. It takes some time but it is worth the effort to have better "aligned" strakes of planks. Where there is no curve involved then a square edge works well. Just a consideration. Rich (PT-2)
 
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One thing to consider when planks are on concave or convex curves is the need to taper the edges to accomodate the angled contact faces for a tight flush fit which asssures glue penetration and adhesion. It takes some time but it is worth the effort to have better "aligned" strakes of planks. Where there is no curve involved then a square edge works well. Just a consideration. Rich (PT-2)
Hi. A question if you don't mind:
I have always wanted to do that, but not sure how to implement so that the edges are tapered properly.
do you have some sort of jig to do that, or do you just use a file and you sand the edge until you think it looks ok?
 
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To answer the question in the original post = yes, glue should be applied to the edge each plank to form a solid shell.

And now to expand of what was said further down from the original question, one should not get confused between "taper" and "bevel".
When planking a hull, you will generally need to consider both, as they work in tandem because of the shapes needing to be covered.
The taper is the change in the width of the plank from one end to the other (on the plank itself). For example: when the same number of planks is required between the front and the middle area of the hull.
The bevel is the progressive change in the angle cut in the edge of the planks over its length, so that each plank tightly fit the one above and below.
In both cases the thickness at the edge of the plank is constant.
G.
 
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To answer the question in the original post = yes, glue should be applied to the edge each plank to form a solid shell.

And now to expand of what was said further down from the original question, one should not get confused between "taper" and "bevel".
When planking a hull, you will generally need to consider both, as they work in tandem because of the shapes needing to be covered.
The taper is the change in the width of the plank from one end to the other (on the plank itself). For example: when the same number of planks is required between the front and the middle area of the hull.
The bevel is the progressive change in the angle cut in the edge of the planks over its length, so that each plank tightly fit the one above and below.
In both cases the thickness at the edge of the plank is constant.
G.
Hi, In regards to beveling the edges, do you use a jig of some sort?
 
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I don"t find it enough just to glue the planks to the edges of the bulkheads. There is too much give in the planks and it doesn't look even.
without any doubt. Do not forget to shape the lower edge. start from about 2 mm below the main deck with 2-3 planks. then measure the main bulkhead and divide by the with of the plank. this will give you info on how many planks are needed. then going forward this measure are changing for each bulkhead and the planks will have to be shaped accordingly. the best way is to fill out the gap between bulkhead -at least from the bottom up to the lower gundeck. sand it and you know have a nice a smush hull. there are many ways of doing it. Solly from the management used a speciAL PRODUCT
 

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Hi, In regards to beveling the edges, do you use a jig of some sort?
I just used a sanding stick or a sanding block to bevel. It was my habit to taper as needed, and then bevel as needed, the TOP edge of the next plank to be installed (working from the wales down). That way the bottom edge is straight and true and smooth as a guide for the next strake...

If you don't have this primer you find find it helpful: Hull Planking for Beginners. I'm a beginner and this guide was helpful.
 
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I just used a sanding stick or a sanding block to bevel. It was my habit to taper as needed, and then bevel as needed, the TOP edge of the next plank to be installed (working from the wales down). That way the bottom edge is straight and true and smooth as a guide for the next strake...

If you don't have this primer you find find it helpful: Hull Planking for Beginners. I'm a beginner and this guide was helpful.
ok thanks. looking forward to adding the bevels on my next project. It should make the gaps between the planks a lot smaller. Now that I think about it a little more, I don't even know if it would be possible to make a jig because the angle of the bevel changes as you go down the boat. Thanks for the link
 
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Hi. A question if you don't mind:
I have always wanted to do that, but not sure how to implement so that the edges are tapered properly.
do you have some sort of jig to do that, or do you just use a file and you sand the edge until you think it looks ok?
I do have a long vise/clamp for such long work but I do not use it for that. I work by hand with a small file or sandpapered stick setting the piece on a larger block so that my sanding hand can approach the edge from a lower angle and stroke along the piece rather than across it. It usually takes a few passes to achieve the angle that I thin is correct. For the curved surfaces both edges are tapered and the bottom one needs to be worked to mate with the one previously tapered and in place. That gives an indication as to how the upper edge needs to be tapered. Rich (PT-2)
 
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Howdy,

If you don't glue the planks to each other there is too much flex and it won't sand right (at least that's what I have experienced). I used PVA for that part (and CA to bond to the bulkheads/frames).

Best of luck with your build.
Thank you Paul
 
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