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Plotting bulkhead shapes

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Jul 30, 2020
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I am trying to understand how to plot bulk head shapes at the bow and stern of a sailing warship using the three given views on the plans. Are there any tutorials on the forum that cover this? I have tried using the search feature with no luck.
 
if you want bulkheads use the bodyplan
start here go to page 2

 
My objective it to create the red lines on the revised plan at the stern and bow of my ship model. Here at the stern I wish to add 2 new bulkheads 45 and 46. How do you plot the "red lines"? Here are photos of my attempts thus far. I get stumped as there are no lines above 6 as circled in green and none above or below 1 - 3 circled in blue. Without them I can not figure out how to plot 45 and 46 on the bulkhead plan.

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Kudos to you for drawing up your own bulkheads!!! Thumbsup

What ship/year is shown in the drawings you posted?

There were likely no frames forward of the foremost station on your drawing (Q, R, S?? hard to see on your pics) or aft of station 44. For POB you may be better off drawing hawse pieces or even a solid block on each side of the stem at the bow, and fashion pieces, filler frames or blocks aft. It may be easier to figure it out if you look at some of the fully framed models on the RMG Collections website. Hope this helps, at least a little bit.
Allan

Drawings that might give you some ideas on the stern and bow areas. These drawings show frames instead of bulkheads but the idea of aft and forward of your bulkheads may be helpful.
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I name 46 or if the line is at the outer edge of the wing transom "AP". Since it is the wing transom it only IS from the wing transom to the sheer (underside of the rail).
As for the shape of 45 and 46: You have 44. You have the outer shape of the stern. What you need is the support for the transition: 44 to ST. The sheer plane (profile) tells you how high. The WL plan tells you how far out.
Select the 44 shape and copy it to its own layer. Using copies of that on duplicates of that layer experiment with scaling (~ 99% 98% range) and probably rotation. With a known location at each end Fake a transition that looks right.
I do POF but you still can make a sequence from AP to ST that looks like a DA. Duck's A** Fonzie, early Elvis, A wing.

For the part below the wale, use horizontal versions of transoms - make them go deeper into the hull than actual transoms - like Allan says - it can either be a block or easier to shape multiple layers with no gaps.
 
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I have used solid pieces on the stern as in photo 1 and 3. I believe that with what you have supplied I will be able to get a shape or use hause pieces to form the stern. I have use hause like pieces on the bow.

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use hause pieces to form the stern.
The stern timbers (there are no hawse holes in the stern :)) are all different sizes. Are all the stern timbers in the kit the same, it is hard to tell from the photos. The different sizes creates the rounding as the inboard most extend farther aft than the outer stern timbers. Also, the outer most, the counter timbers, are not straight, but bow out. It may not matter as it looks like the filler pieces in your photo will take care of the shape shown normally formed by the counter timbers as in the example below (parts marked C)

Examples:

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