Pocher 1:4 Ducati Superbike 1299 Panigale S Anniversario + Hardware-kit of Paul Koo

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This is a great kit - interesting to see the details
- I am crossing the fingers, that they once prepare a kit of a classic bike like the Black shadow or a Brought Superior or......
Hello Uwe,
The Brought Superior has also my attention.
Via my dealer, there is this information about the factory MF-Hiro in scale 1:9 in 'white metal': click -> MF-HIRO
Scroll a bit down and you find the Brought Superiors (1926 or 1932): details click ->Brought Superior
But also the Vincent and other great bikes.
The Indian Scout Bonneville from Burt Munro is also superb: details click -> Indian Scout Bonneville
I tink I have seen the movie 10 times.
Regards, Peter
 

Uwek

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Hello Uwe,
The Brought Superior has also my attention.
Via my dealer, there is this information about the factory MF-Hiro in scale 1:9 in 'white metal': click -> MF-HIRO
Scroll a bit down and you find the Brought Superiors (1926 or 1932): details click ->Brought Superior
But also the Vincent and other great bikes.
The Indian Scout Bonneville from Burt Munro is also superb: details click -> Indian Scout Bonneville
I tink I have seen the movie 10 times.
Regards, Peter
Yes - many thanks for the links - I know of the high quality kits of MF-Hiro - I have built some cars in the past (long years ago), but never a bike
Looking great, but still with 1:9 very small - or?
 
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Hi Peter,

I am already looking some time to your work on this project... it's really amazing and I am stunned by the detail and complexity of the bike and the careful building you show! Very nice!!!

Gijsbert
Thanks Gijsbert,
As a biker, I like this build. It’s also good to set my mind from time to time from building the Lee.
Regards, Peter
 
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Before the next part is discussed, first 2 extras / super detailing on the fork.
The ABS sensor is applied to the left fork leg. Is a sparkplug cap of an old Pocher 1:8 car ;-)
114 ABS.jpg

And mounted here, along with the black fork leg seal. Following a tip from a Dutch forum member. Cor thanks again!
115 Vorkring.jpg

Chapter 14, Part 1:
116 Hfst 14-1.jpg

Step 1:
The swing arm:

The parts:
117 Achterbrug1.jpg

It is a bit of a search to mount all parts using the instruction. Because the two main parts of the swing arm are quite curved in different directions. And on the drawing there are some attachment points a little hidden.

Therefore, an intermediate step to the assembly up to 2 main parts
118 Achterbrug2.jpg
119 Achterbrug3.jpg
No, it's not going to be a snowmobile ;-)

The 2 parts merged:
120 Achterbrug4.jpg
121 Achterbrug4.jpg
Make sure that the brake line runs loosely in the guide over the rear bridge and it is not trapped anywhere. Then it can be shifted tightly at the right length towards the rear brake.

Regards, Peter
 
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This is incredible - it is so life like - I Love it.

I wish they would bring back the older classic cars - but I have not been able to find any classic cars actually from any manufacture. The era I am interested in is
1930 - 1946
Hi Donald,
Pocher belongs now to Hornby. Hopefully they have historical awareness. I like the old car also more then the modern Lamborgini's.
Regards, Peter
 
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Chapter 5:
View attachment 176175
Waterpump:
In 2 stages:
The base:
View attachment 176176
With the extras: the hose clamps and the wiring:
View attachment 176177
With the nice inbus-bolds of Paul Koo

Starter relay:
In the Pocher manual, there are only 3 cables:
RF-01, from the starter to the start relay
RF-03, from the RPM sensor to the relay
RF-04, the battery +connector to the relay
Paul Koo gives a few more options. But it is the question if you see them later?
But these are made:
-radiator fan
-exhaust valve
-starter relay
Kick stand switch
View attachment 176178

Battery:
For the battery only the +connector is drawn in, glued to the back of the battery.
So, the + and the – made.
View attachment 176179

Everything attached to the left side of the engine:
View attachment 176180
Some cables fixed:
-starter
-accu +
-RPM-sensor.

The cable harness on the top is later connected to the main cable tree.
Also on the bottom the cables for the exhaust-valve.
The accu-decal speaks for itself.

All and all, this costs me the whole afternoon. But: great fun.
Regards, Peter
Hi Peter,

I am looking at these photos trying to work out if I am looking at the real components or not, I have decided that I cannot tell if they are the real components or not.
Amazing!!!

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
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Hi Peter,

I am looking at these photos trying to work out if I am looking at the real components or not, I have decided that I cannot tell if they are the real components or not.
Amazing!!!

Cheers,
Stephen.
Thanxs Stephen.
With the right light and background, you can give the parts and the bike a stunning view. Sometimes I show a friend the 2 pictures of the red one in my first post. Then it took some time to onderstand it is a model :D .
When this bike is growing I hope to make sone ‘real-life’ settings.
Regards, Peter
 
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Chapter 14, Part 2:
126 Hfst 14-2.jpg

Step 3:
Rear wheel: Rim + Rire:

The parts:
127 Achterwiel1.jpg

First the tiny decals on the rim around the rear axle whole. These are a little bit more than 1 mm high. Left/under as a reference for the size, a thoothpick:
128 Achterwiel2.jpg

The rim with the tire (in the right direction), axle, brake disk and ABS sensor ring:
129 Achterwiel3.jpg
This will be inserted into the swingarm from the right side.
The tyre first put in the warm water for a while, otherwise it really did not go around the rim.

The right side with nut.
130 Achterwiel3.jpg
The weight of the wheel is 1150 gr.
Regards, Peter
 
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Step 4:
Swingarm + Wheel + rear sprocket flange + caliper:

The parts:
131 Achterwiel5.jpg

First the ABS sensor attached to caliper arm:
132 Achterwiel6.jpg

The rear wheel inserted into the housing:
133 Achterwiel7.jpg

Pocher delivers the black Philip-srews to attach the gear to the rear axle with a flange.
Paul Koo provides 6 beautiful set-screw for this:
134 Achterwiel8.jpg

Merged
135 Achterwiel9.jpg
Super details:
-the red dots on the set-screws, to make sure they're still stuck;
- the security spring around the big nut.

The complete left side:
136 Achterwiel10.jpg
With the Chain-Tension decal.

And the right side:
137 Achterwiel11.jpg
Also with the security spring around the big nut.

Those parts together weight 1626 gr.

Regards, Peter
 
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For the next steps I have been so stubborn to change the order of the chapters a bit.
The 3 large parts will now be merged. When i built the red Duc in 2016 I put parts on their side and it was quite a lot of hassle to get everything together. And the risk of depleting or bending parts.
In addition, it is useful if you use the garage support. Because you're actually missing an extra hand. That support can then be used nicely as a 3rd hand.
And for clarity, I've made the big steps in separate posts.

Chapter 18:
138 Hfst 18.jpg

The Garage support:
The parts:
139 Steun.jpg

Merged:
140 Steun1.jpg

Regards, Peter
 
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For the merging of the 3 large parts I make handy use of the garage support.

So first:

Chapter 16, step 1:
141 Hfst 16.jpg

The Swingarm to the engine block:
I put the garage support in the hollow axle of the rear wheel:
142 Brug+Blok1.jpg
It stays in position now.

And now I can tilt it with my right hand and put the part with the engine block in position with my left hand:
143 Brug+Blok2.jpg
With my left hand, I hold both parts in position at the back, and screw the 1st bolt with my right hand. This bolt also hinges the rear bridge.

It is wise to have a soft block at hand to place between the rear frame and the rear tyre. Because the shock absorber with spring is later mounted. Without that block, the rear fender presses against the exhaust and torges it in its entirety.

Now turn it all over and attach the 2nd bolt:
144 Brug+Blok3.jpg

Regards, Peter
 
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