Proper glue for bonding sheet styrene to wood?

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Bluemaxone

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Trying to find a permanent adhesive solution...my sheet styrene keeps falling off my wood surfaces. These are flat surfaces. I took out an old model from a crate last year, had been in the attic for 25 years, the styrene had stayed stuck to the wood. As I recall I used a glue for styrene (I guess it was designed for styrene to styrene but it worked great on wood). Now nothing seems to work. Titebond and tacky glue are worthless in this case. Any advice?
 
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I have used a product called NO More Nails, which I purchased at Home Depot here in Canada. It is advertised for using to glue base boards or non wooden trims to the walls of your house, but I find it seems to work on my models with wooden frames where I want to attach styrene panels. Hope this helps.
 
The problem is that glues designed for styrene dissolve the plastic to form a weld between two parts, while glues made for wood hold best because wood is porous and thus makes a strong bond. Wood and plastic are different this way. I would try gel CA like Bryian said for the easiest solution. Epoxy would be much more difficult. You'd have to wait for the set up time to get to the tacky stage, and cleanup is not easy if you get it where you don't want it.
 
I'm remembering way back to when i was a boy but it seems to me that I used to use styrene cement(the kind idiots sniff) to glue together my balsa model airplanes. They stayed together long enough for me to crash them.
My go to glue for odd surfaces is Shoe Glue. It will even stick to polyethylene.
 
Don Case said:
I'm remembering way back to when i was a boy but it seems to me that I used to use styrene cement(the kind idiots sniff) to glue together my balsa model airplanes. They stayed together long enough for me to crash them.
My go to glue for odd surfaces is Shoe Glue. It will even stick to polyethylene.
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Remembering I used Ambroid and Testor's cements when I built flying models. There was another cement clled Duco too.
 
I would like to do a "glue off" with the various glues...accleration tests...put in low oven, get moist, etc, to torture the samples to see which one(s) hold up.
 
fourseas said:
I have used a product called NO More Nails, which I purchased at Home Depot here in Canada. It is advertised for using to glue base boards or non wooden trims to the walls of your house, but I find it seems to work on my models with wooden frames where I want to attach styrene panels. Hope this helps.
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Found this stuff at AMAZON
 
CA gel will work to bond styrene to wood. This is what I use. There are cautions to observe: one is to use the gel not the thin CA (at least in my experience). The other is CA can and will melt the styrene if you use too much. Use small dabs of the gel for best success. CA thin is hard to control quantity and will almost always end up melting the styrene If too much is applied. Another trick using sheet styrene on curved surfaces…use a hot air gun to heat the shape and form it to the curve…such as a mast. The formed shape takes away the stress of the shape trying to spring flat as you are gluing it down. CA gel works better when the styrene lays flat to the surface and you are not fighting the shape springing open. Anyway…this is what has worked for me. I use a lot of styrene shapes in my ship models…especially for moldings around stern quarter windows and the shaped moldings along the length of the hull.
 
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usually adhesive glue works. I use PVA with good results. Titebond has a thicker versio called thick and quick for gluing wood with wood and other surfaces
 
I had exactly that dilemma a few years ago. I did some experiments and ended up using Lepage 100% glue and was satisfied with it. I have a Youtube video of the tests and the results of being stupid and doing exactly what you should NOT do when choosing a glue. Those tests start at about the 26:10 mark of video number 4 on this page. Hope your project goes well!
 
I have used Aleene's "Max Tacky Adhesive" to glue paper to plastic, wood to wood and wood to metal. Its easy to work with and will set up quickly if you apply a thin coat to both surfaces. you can find it at any craft store and you don't have to worry about gluing your finger together.

Jim
 
Wenn das Holz unbehandelt und farbfrei ist, verwenden Sie Aceton! Dies wird auch verwendet, um die Bindung auf Gitarrenkörper zu kleben (auf YouTube-Guitar Binding) - garantiert funktioniert! Befeuchten Sie das Holz und Styrol mit Aceton, setzen Sie sie zusammen und fixieren Sie sie mit Klebeband - fertig. Testen Sie bei lackiertem Holz vorher, ob der Lack vom Aceton angegriffen wird.


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We used Contact cement for most applications at the shop I worked at. The flammable type. Be careful indoors around open flames though.
 
fourseas said:
I have used a product called NO More Nails, which I purchased at Home Depot here in Canada. It is advertised for using to glue base boards or non wooden trims to the walls of your house, but I find it seems to work on my models with wooden frames where I want to attach styrene panels. Hope this helps.
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I used this per your recommendation. I melted my styrene with it, but I think I used too much. I will try spot applications from now on. Also, this glue takes forever to set. Maybe I need to go back to contact cement, but experience shows it does not do well in heat, and may get brittle over time. I guess hide glue might be an option. Thank you for the tip.
 
mikegr said:
usually adhesive glue works. I use PVA with good results. Titebond has a thicker versio called thick and quick for gluing wood with wood and other surfaces
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I have PVA! Used it for bookbinding and repairing concertinas. A nice easy glue to work with. Thanks, I will try it!
 
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