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Proxxon FET Saw

Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
267
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138

Location
Peterborough Ontario Canada
If the following has been brought up before I missed it. Never been a fan of using wood for runners on a table saw sled. I purchased two metal runners from Proxxon and being made for this saw fit and move perfectly.
Just a suggestion in case you want to spend a few bucks.
 
I took a peek at the Proxxon website and didn't see these runners. Do you have a part number or a link? I always geek out on small tool mods.
 
They aren’t classified as runners by Proxxon. They are the metal piece used on the miter gauge.
They are called “guidance assembly “. 2 of them for $16.50 seemed like a steal to me.
S37070-108 Guidance in Assembly S37070-11 is what shows on my invoice.
 
I need to make a cross-cut sled for my FET. I had assumed I’d use wood for the runners, but your post reminded me that the wood runners on my full-sized cross-cut sled gave me no end of trouble with seasonal humidity changes. I have a fair bit of polycarbonate in the stash, so I might give that a try.
 
I need to make a cross-cut sled for my FET. I had assumed I’d use wood for the runners, but your post reminded me that the wood runners on my full-sized cross-cut sled gave me no end of trouble with seasonal humidity changes. I have a fair bit of polycarbonate in the stash, so I might give that a try.
Same here. I finally wised up and had metal runners made for my full size table saw. What a difference. That’s what prompted me to go the metal route with the FET.
 
They aren’t classified as runners by Proxxon. They are the metal piece used on the miter gauge.
They are called “guidance assembly “. 2 of them for $16.50 seemed like a steal to me.
S37070-108 Guidance in Assembly S37070-11 is what shows on my invoice.
couldn't find them/ could you tell us your source
 
I was able to mill runners from aluminum bar directly on the FET. The standard blade will handle aluminum, but you have to take it in small slices, and it gets hot so use push blocks and give things a chance to cool down between passes. With a bit of FETtling, I was able to get my cross-cut sled moving smooth as silk.
 
Although a "steal" at 16.50, I decided to 3D print my own. Good fun and works OK. It was a bit of a hassle finding the right tolerance so that it wouldn't wobble and still glide. The upright behind the cut is to prevent your thumb sliding too much forward. Not that I would let it cut so far anyway.

If you have a 3D (FDM) printer and want to print your own, see the attached stl file. Screenshot 2025-10-08 at 11.39.38.jpg
 

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Although a "steal" at 16.50, I decided to 3D print my own. Good fun and works OK. It was a bit of a hassle finding the right tolerance so that it would wobble and still glide. The upright behind the cut is to prevent your thumb sliding too much forward. Not that I would let it cut so far anyway.

If you have a 3D (FDM) printer and want to print your own, see the attached stl file. View attachment 548834
Thanks for sharing that. Looks like a nice bit of kit. Unfortunately, 3D printing remains outside my skill set. Hopefully, someone else on the forum will find it useful, but I’d recommend slapping a patent on that badboy (not that it will stop Chinese sweat-shops from cranking these out on AliExress and Temu)
 
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