Proxxon Saw Fills The Vacuum

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Oct 19, 2018
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The Old North State (NC..)
Today marks the day where I finally gave up.
I’ve been trying to buy a Byrnes saw for months. Yes, I know...no motors. But I just can’t wait any longer.!! I have things to do, places to go, fish to fry....

So.... with an admittedly large dose of trepidation, I finally succumbed to the saying ..... “Abandon hope, all ye who enter here”, And I placed an order for a Proxxon FET. I am going to treat it as a “stop-gap” for now. Maybe by some time next year Byrnes will be back on the job.!! SMH...

I’m still holding on to my order for his thickness sander though. There really isn’t an option for that.

So, here’s a question for all of you Proxxon zealots or fan-boys. What should I watch out for?? Any weak spots I need to monitor.??

I hope this panicky feeling goes away. I need to cut some wood and I’m scared I won’t like this thing.!!!
Oh well.... C’est la vie.!!
 
I have both the Proxxon and Byrnes table saws. The Byrnes is better built with sturdy metal construction, whereas the Proxxon has a plastic body.
But saying that, you will be happy with the Proxxon, as the Russian master model ship builders Dr Mike and Aldrey Kudin use it in their videos.
 
My Proxxon came with a error in the adjustment between the blade (motor) and the table. At the moment i heared about any guys that have the same problem too. I bought it 3 month ago and i sent the machine in the first week to proxxon to adjust correctly. She returns better but at least the angle doesent works correct.
At the moment i can work with it, but i think for this money you get nothing better.
Dr. Mike use a old FKS. I think the older machines are the better ones. The Byrnes Saw is better, but i dont know if you can compare the both saws. The size can be differnet. I have as well a little presicion saw from a private manufacturer. In my opinion there is no all in wonder tools. Every size or machine has its own qualitys.
Its depend as well how do you use and for what.
If i need to buy now one i would buy a used FKS. For this machine there are a lot of add-one and tips in the net. But this is only my opinion.
 
The only differences between FKS and FET should be a 0.1 mm micro adjustment of the fence on FET and electronic speed control on FKS (maybe not of much value on a table saw anyway). Hence I would think add-ons and tips should be the same for both models.
I've read that Proxxon indeed had some construction issues with the motor mount on the earliest FET but this was solved on models produced since 2010.
@Olivers Historic Shipyard: Just out of curiosity, what is the production year of your FET? (should be printed on a label somewhere on the machine)
 
Thanks for the hints / discussion. I'll know more when it arrives and I get it set-up. I think the key to effective utilization will be understanding the limits and not violating the integrity. All of us have a tendency to "push the envelope" a little. I will try hard to avoid putting undue strain on this little guy. After all, I DO have larger machines.!!

One thing I've noticed..... The blades are not easy to find. Proxxon shows only two. One 24T carbide, and one 80T steel "crosscut" style ("crosscut" = their words..). I've look around some. Hard to find blades with a 10mm center. I'm looking for some "thin" kerf blades of various pitch and set. If any of you know of a blade source for something other than the Proxxon blades ^^ mentioned here, please let me know.!!
 
Micro Mark has several 3" blades with 10mm hole. They also have a bushing to reduce a 1/2" blade hole to fit 10mm shaft.

I've been looking at a modeler's table saw. The pricing amazes me. For $150.00 more than a Proxxonn you can get a contractors grade portable table saw, 10", cast iron and steel, full size. I have two 10" saws, one, a shop grade cabinet makers saw, the other a contactors grade saw for use in the field. If I could get really thin blades for these, I would mill my own timber. I believe I could rig some jigs for that. I already use zero clearance throat plates for some work.

For use in the model cave though, something smaller would be better. The Proxxon runs about $350.00 or so. They have one that is for ripping only (#115) for $116.00. Don't know anything about that one. Byrnes runs around $450.00.

MicroMark has a tilting arbor saw for $319.00 and a rip only saw for $90.00. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with those machines.?

I would be using it only to rip strips from sheets, not for resizing lumber into boards or suitable stuff to make sheets.

Just courious.

I also want a thickness sander, but there again, the prices offend me. I'm in the process of building my own thickness sander. I was going to make one that worked on my drill press, but decided to go with a design that uses a 1/2 horse motor - because I have a couple of those laying around. I might even design and build a rip saw if I can't bring myself to spring for a commercial one. I just hate spending $750.00 to $1000.00 for a couple tools I'll probably only use 3 or 4 times a year. I was happy with commercially available modeling wood until I got ahold of some spruce, Alaskan yellow cedar, some kind of mahogany and a couple other exotics. Then I was spoiled. Many of the woods used in those $300.00 and more priced kits just don't seem to be available as just "lumber". Example - pear wood.

Thoughts anyone?

EJ
 
Hey EJ...
Yeah, Little wood, and little cuts require a little saw......Unfortunately.!
I have a Delta Unisaw and a Bosch Contractor Job Site saw. Both will cut long, deep, and continuously...and do it for hours on end, all day long. But, just TRY to get your fingers down next to that rip fence and securely hold on to a strip of wood while cutting it. Ain't gonna happen.!! TRY to rip up a plank of modeling wood that is say.... 50mm wide (about two inches..) by 500mm long (about 20 inches..) by 6mm thick.!!........Then rip those 6mm strips into strips 2mm+/- wide.!! With that ten or twelve inch saw, the kerf alone will between .0625 -- .125 wide. You will throw away more wood in sawdust than you have left... IF and I repeat, IF you are brave enough to get your fingers that close to that whirling dervish of a blade while holding on to a slice of wood not much bigger than a match stick.!!

NOPE.!!!..... Mandatory use of a tiny saw with a tiny blade with itsy bitsy teensy teeth and a clear open path that allows complete and unobstructed view. Gots to have it.!!!

Oh... Thanks for telling me about MicroMark blades.! I'll take a look.!!
 
Hey EJ...
Yeah, Little wood, and little cuts require a little saw......Unfortunately.!
I have a Delta Unisaw and a Bosch Contractor Job Site saw. Both will cut long, deep, and continuously...and do it for hours on end, all day long. But, just TRY to get your fingers down next to that rip fence and securely hold on to a strip of wood while cutting it. Ain't gonna happen.!! TRY to rip up a plank of modeling wood that is say.... 50mm wide (about two inches..) by 500mm long (about 20 inches..) by 6mm thick.!!........Then rip those 6mm strips into strips 2mm+/- wide.!! With that ten or twelve inch saw, the kerf alone will between .0625 -- .125 wide. You will throw away more wood in sawdust than you have left... IF and I repeat, IF you are brave enough to get your fingers that close to that whirling dervish of a blade while holding on to a slice of wood not much bigger than a match stick.!!

NOPE.!!!..... Mandatory use of a tiny saw with a tiny blade with itsy bitsy teensy teeth and a clear open path that allows complete and unobstructed view. Gots to have it.!!!

Oh... Thanks for telling me about MicroMark blades.! I'll take a look.!!
As a guy who has been a woodworker forever I am very accustomed to using “big” tools. I cannot agree more about getting your fingers close to the whirling beast blade. You have to be absolutely nuts to try and use a machine designed for a carpenter to try and cut model size parts. I have tried and it is stupid stupid stupid. I finally bought myself the Proxxon fet and I am more than satisfied with it. I’ve read about the Byrnes superiority and maybe that is true. But for me this is a gem. Being able to cut tiny pieces in complete safety and being in control is a great feeling. You can and should make a sled for the mini saw just like you would on a big saw. The list is endless for add ons if one wishes. There are several jigs one can make for the little guy.
In conclusion I think it is personal preference. Because I’m in Canada the price of the Byrnes after all was said and done was in the upper atmosphere. I could buy a full size table saw in Canada for the same price.
 
@Hobbit99 There are other trim saws and special saws out there that have a 10mm arbor, and there are zero kerf slitting saws as well. Just dig through Amazon for "10mm arbor" + saw blade and some will come up, buried in lot of false positives. Here is one I have found useful:
 
@Hobbit99 There are other trim saws and special saws out there that have a 10mm arbor, and there are zero kerf slitting saws as well. Just dig through Amazon for "10mm arbor" + saw blade and some will come up, buried in lot of false positives. Here is one I have found useful:

Hey Pebble...(or worm..??):)
Thanks for the link.... Have you tried that particular blade on a Proxxon or another 10mm saw.?? Here's why I ask.... I know what the listing says, BUT...I've looked up the MTP blades previously and some of them say "10mm--3/8 arbor".!! And while 10mm and 3/8 are CLOSE, they aren't the same. 3/8 is closer to 9.6mm in actual size. So, that's why I was asking. Of course, if you've used that blade on a Proxxon then the question has been answered.!! In any event, I guess I could open up the arbor hole slightly if I needed to.
So...thanks for reminding me about Amazon.!! I shop there quite a bit so I should have considered them.

Thanks again!!
 
EVERY ONE IS TALKING ABOUT HOBBY TABLE SAWS, WHAT ABOUT A LOWER TO MIDDEL END BAND SAW, I HAE A PERFORMAX FROM MENARDS DOES EVERYTHING I . NWANT IT TO I CAN CUT STRIPS 1/16 OR SMALLER AS WELL AS CUT FRAMES, WITH BLADE CHANGE CAN RE- SAW WOOD $124.00 NO NEED TO SPEND $300.00 TO$400.00 UNLESS YOU HAVE MONEY TO BURN, THICKNESS SANDER $220.00 LUTHERS BEST FRIEND, I HAVE BEEN USING IT CONSTANTLY ONY ONE CHANGE OF SANDER DOES EVERYTHING THAT I NEED CAN GET MATERIAL TO 3/64TH ANY SMALLER I JUST ORDER STRIPS(LUMBERYARD) IF GOOD ENOUGH FOR VIOLIN AND GUITAR MAKERS GOOD ENOUGH FOR SHIP MODELING NEEDS, MULTI PURPOSE USEAGE NOW TO BUY THAT BIG KIT WIT THE SAVINGS. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE DON
 
Brian,
Yes, I am sure it is a Chinese copy!
Anyhow, going back to the FET (I have been using one of those),where there are two points to mention. Both are related to the parallel state of the blade to the guide. The motor can not be adjusted so any adjustment can only be done on the guide. For generic setting - and I just realized this after long years) the way to set the two parallel is the Allan screw on the guide. Make this loose and adjust the guide's position to the blade, making sure that the guide just touches the blade on both (close and far) sides of the blade. This is the only way to do it. If you have a metal cutting blade, use that for this setting because it is easier to check the guide's position to the blade. Then tighten that Allen screw.
The second issue is using the fine adjustment on the guide. It is probably caused by dust, but I could not find the position where. As the guide is secured on the linear using the yellow (twist) knob, then the guide can be fine-adjusted with the knob on the right hand side of the linear. Than the guide has to be secured with the lever. This is when I realized the sometimes while I am tightening the lever, the guide changes its angle position relative to the blade. In this case the guide has to be cleaned (after sliding it completely off the linear) by pressurized air (or, as I do it, blowing with my mouth). After this the lever could be used, as intended, without twisting the guide.
I hope my Pidgeon explanation is still understandable...
János
 
Sorry Brian,

i dont want any stress with you and i am happy that you are happy with your saw.
But i had a austrian copy of your red saw and can compare both very good.
They are not identical. Everything on this saw has more poor quality than the proxxon.
It looks like a proxxon but you don´t can compare the both machines. At the first look the
datas are similar, but the are details not. The table is very rough, the gauge is unstabil. I couldn´t saw planks with this piece of s.... unshine.
That s why i changed this saw to my FET.
Finaly the lession for me in buying tools was, if you pay the half, you get the half. ....or less....

1593235247219.png
 
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Hey EJ...
Yeah, Little wood, and little cuts require a little saw......Unfortunately.!
I have a Delta Unisaw and a Bosch Contractor Job Site saw. Both will cut long, deep, and continuously...and do it for hours on end, all day long. But, just TRY to get your fingers down next to that rip fence and securely hold on to a strip of wood while cutting it. Ain't gonna happen.!! TRY to rip up a plank of modeling wood that is say.... 50mm wide (about two inches..) by 500mm long (about 20 inches..) by 6mm thick.!!........Then rip those 6mm strips into strips 2mm+/- wide.!! With that ten or twelve inch saw, the kerf alone will between .0625 -- .125 wide. You will throw away more wood in sawdust than you have left... IF and I repeat, IF you are brave enough to get your fingers that close to that whirling dervish of a blade while holding on to a slice of wood not much bigger than a match stick.!!

NOPE.!!!..... Mandatory use of a tiny saw with a tiny blade with itsy bitsy teensy teeth and a clear open path that allows complete and unobstructed view. Gots to have it.!!!

Oh... Thanks for telling me about MicroMark blades.! I'll take a look.!!
Just wanted to add one more thing to the mini saw vs big guy saw. Yes tools have specific purposes. Aside from my comments about keeping ones fingers safe from a large table saw blade I also got tired of almost having my epidermis ripped off while holding tiny pieces of wood next to my industrial sander. Having ones skin 1 mm away from sandpaper turning at a high rate of speed is not my idea of a good time, even though I have done so for years.
Yesterday this little baby arrived at my house. It is a much scaled down version of a big sander. Oh I know it looks like a toy but it is not. I’ve only had time to give it a small test run but it is everything I was hoping for. The best part is the same as I noted previously in regards to saws: one can sand tiny parts with complete confidence and control. No fear of having flesh ripped up. Cheap too: $65.00 Canadian delivered.
Sorry for the crummy picture. Don’t think it does the sander justice.
 

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In my experience, no matter which mini table saw you have, in order to cut planking strips you need to set the rip fence as accurately as possible to the blade. Any deviation will bind the blade and make cutting strips a frustration. The better the saw the more accurate the settings and the less drift once locked in. I have a MicroLux saw (MicroMark) and with very careful settings I have cut lots of planking strips from 1/4 inch stock. The best way to set the fence to the blade is with brass machine setup gauges...they are brass bars about 3" long of various widths. Set the guage next to the blade and run the fence up to it and lock in place.
 
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Wow. Amazing at the similarities. I have a sanding planner and table saw from Micromark. Basic. Nothing really to brag about. The sander will adjust all the way to where the sander is actually touching the steel floor. Larger machines have a stop gap and will not let u go all the way down. The MM table saw does have plenty of blades to choose from and they even added a dado blade system to their table saw. The whole body is plastic. The motor is tough as nails. So, all in all. Okay.
 
EVERY ONE IS TALKING ABOUT HOBBY TABLE SAWS, WHAT ABOUT A LOWER TO MIDDEL END BAND SAW, I HAE A PERFORMAX FROM MENARDS DOES EVERYTHING I . NWANT IT TO I CAN CUT STRIPS 1/16 OR SMALLER AS WELL AS CUT FRAMES, WITH BLADE CHANGE CAN RE- SAW WOOD $124.00 NO NEED TO SPEND $300.00 TO$400.00 UNLESS YOU HAVE MONEY TO BURN, THICKNESS SANDER $220.00 LUTHERS BEST FRIEND, I HAVE BEEN USING IT CONSTANTLY ONY ONE CHANGE OF SANDER DOES EVERYTHING THAT I NEED CAN GET MATERIAL TO 3/64TH ANY SMALLER I JUST ORDER STRIPS(LUMBERYARD) IF GOOD ENOUGH FOR VIOLIN AND GUITAR MAKERS GOOD ENOUGH FOR SHIP MODELING NEEDS, MULTI PURPOSE USEAGE NOW TO BUY THAT BIG KIT WIT THE SAVINGS. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE DON
I agree wholeheartedly. I hate the FET, the guard can't be used properly with the fence, kickback problems, the micro adjust never worked, made of plastic which, considering the cost, is unacceptable.. The smaller Proxxon is useful for thin small planks but I made the move to a 9" bandsaw (Skil) about 5 years ago. At less than half the price a nice new blade gives comparable cuts, I can mill down to 1.5mm planks leaving a half ml for sanding, and as far as safety and ease of use go it's way ahead all with the added versatility for cutting shapes too. Also I can use it for carpentry jobs. It really is not madness to use a full size tool for modeling work. I need a thicknesser, it won't be a modelers tool!!
 
I have a Craftsman benchtop band saw and I have used it for ripping planks. I have a rip fence for the band saw platform. Once set a band saw slices out planks like butter. For me the issue with a band saw is the need for more adjustments for the blade to run true for accurate cutting...all the guides and rollers usually need to be spot on! Thus I find the band saw a whee bit more awkward to use for cutting up a bunch of planking strips...my mini table saw is just more convenient. So either/or...whichever you are comfortable with!
 
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