Question about hull planking

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When planking the deck of a ship I spend a lot of time staggering the deck planks. When I plank the hull, I don't. Something seems off. Weren't the planks of the hull also staggered on the real ships? I can't see someone, or two, being able to handle a plank the length of the actual ship nor can't I see trees being that long either. So if that is the case, then how does one go about staggering the planks on the hull, without having the seams line up? I have attached a document that shows how to setup a stagger pattern on the deck of a ship but what I am trying to do is figure out how to do this for the hull, but not sure the best approach.
Thanks
 

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On the real ship there was much more frames compared to our standard models so staggering hull planks was not at all a problem. For you if you want I can suggest to imitate the staggering with, let us say, drawing an end of planks with the sharp pencil for example.
 
Я не вижу, чтобы кто-то или двое могли справиться с доской длиной с настоящий корабль, а также я не могу увидеть деревья такой длины.
You are right, the size of trees in the ship has not grown up to now. The length of the deck board was 6 - 8 meters. Convert to your scale and get the board length you need at your scale. You can look through Mondfeldt's book "Models of Historic Ships". It says about the trim. Including about the layout of deck boards is described in detail.
 
I believe best practice would not be straight joints, but plain scarphed (scarfed) joints or, even better, hooked scarph joints. I do not know which techniques were used by different boatyards and regions. It would seem that the plain scarph could be made on the thickness or the width of the timber, and the hooked version on the width of the timber.

joint_scarf.jpg scarph.jpg
 
On the real ship there was much more frames compared to our standard models so staggering hull planks was not at all a problem. For you if you want I can suggest to imitate the staggering with, let us say, drawing an end of planks with the sharp pencil for example.

I believe best practice would not be straight joints, but plain scarphed (scarfed) joints or, even better, hooked scarph joints. I do not know which techniques were used by different boatyards and regions.

View attachment 247049 View attachment 247050
Thank you for the information. Any thoughts on how wide the plank has to be in order to do this? According to the picture, I would say that the plank is wider than 5 mm.
 
I believe best practice would not be straight joints, but plain scarphed (scarfed) joints or, even better, hooked scarph joints. I do not know which techniques were used by different boatyards and regions. It would seem that the plain scarph could be made on the thickness or the width of the timber, and the hooked version on the width of the timber.

View attachment 247049 View attachment 247050
Such connections (scarf joints) were done to prolong the length of beams and off course also at the keel, but usually were not used on normal planks.
Sometimes hocked joints were necessary at the wales but usually not at the normal hull planking
 
Such connections (scarf joints) were done to prolong the length of beams and off course also at the keel, but usually were not used on normal planks.
Sometimes hocked joints were necessary at the wales but usually not at the normal hull planking
Makes sense. Those must have been time consuming to make at full size.
 
You are right, the size of trees in the ship has not grown up to now. The length of the deck board was 6 - 8 meters. Convert to your scale and get the board length you need at your scale. You can look through Mondfeldt's book "Models of Historic Ships". It says about the trim. Including about the layout of deck boards is described in detail.
AS USUAL, YOU ARE ALWAYS RIGHT.<if we are talking about a kit build, you will generally have a bottom geck, yo where you gluer the planks. here -deprnding of your layout 9 cm is good- start with one full, the next one on the side starts 3 cm up. and so on-
Such connections (scarf joints) were done to prolong the length of beams and off course also at the keel, but usually were not used on normal planks.
Sometimes hocked joints were necessary at the wales but usually not at the normal hull planking
AZVRFRE
 
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