Recommended Contact glue for veneer? UK

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Dudley

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Hello folks,
I've finished the false hull cladding on my Artesania Latina dhow and the next stage is to glue the 0.5mm(?) thick hardwood planks for which the instructions recommend contact adhesive. I've had experience of this before and I know how 'stringy' and unforgiving this glue can be.
What would you recommend please, bearing in mind that I'm UK based and might not be able to buy the same glue as our American/Canadian friends use.
Thank you. Dudley
 
I'm not sure about the UK, here in the US we typically have two cements - oneis solvent based, yhe other is water based. The solvent based version is pretty toxic and odorous. Opt for water based if you can. And try it out on scrap first before committing it to your model.
 
I am using Evostick Impact for veneer planking. You can get it in any DIY store in UK. Works great but is really smelly so I usually work with window open.
IMG_20210206_134440.jpg
 
My current kit recommended contact cement but I was afraid of the unforgiving nature, so I adopted a technique of starting with a small dot of CA at the stem, repeated at more or less every bulkhead. In between was a line of 10 minute carpenter glue, applied to both the base planking and a bit to the adjacent plank. The dots of CA acted as tacks to hold the plank in place while the PVA glue dried.

But I did buy a tin of LePage's water based contact cement to try. I would not use the solvent based I don't think -- it has been -23C overnight this week, so opening a window is not in the cards.
 
I useveneer that comes with a heat-activated glue backing. It comes in rolls of varying widths and in different woods. All I do is cut a piece to the appropriate length, then trim to shape with a sharp knife. The glue backing prevents the veneer from splitting. I’ve even cut curved planks from this material using a large pair of scissors.
I apply the strip using a tool with a small flat heated end, pressing the strip into place. It glues instantly and can be adjusted by re-heating the strip. Any glue that seeps out is easily removed. Much easier in my opinion than applying glue, and it sets in a minute or less. If a plank doesn’t fit well, it’s a breeze to remove; just re-heat and it peels right off.
I planked several models this way and never had a plank come loose.
cheers, John
 
I'll second Piatnik81's comment about Evostick. When I am using this I put a small amount on a bit of scrap brass shim and allow this to dry. I then rub this along the edge of the newly adhered plank to collect up all the excess glue.
 
I've ended up buying some UHU 'Hart' so we'll see how I get on with that. Thanks for your feedback and thoughts.
Dudley
 
john269 said:
I useveneer that comes with a heat-activated glue backing. It comes in rolls of varying widths and in different woods. All I do is cut a piece to the appropriate length, then trim to shape with a sharp knife. The glue backing prevents the veneer from splitting. I’ve even cut curved planks from this material using a large pair of scissors.
I apply the strip using a tool with a small flat heated end, pressing the strip into place. It glues instantly and can be adjusted by re-heating the strip. Any glue that seeps out is easily removed. Much easier in my opinion than applying glue, and it sets in a minute or less. If a plank doesn’t fit well, it’s a breeze to remove; just re-heat and it peels right off.
I planked several models this way and never had a plank come loose.
cheers, John
Click to expand...
Can you give us a link to this product>
 
I've recently planked the deck of Occre's Beagle using Alpha Thixofix, non-drip & can be brushed on with a suitably stiff artist's flat brush. Occre have their own Beagle build videos on YT. This was my first try with contact adhesive after using Titebond on other ships. I found that the smell is not too intrusive. I laid planks to the width of the deck on inverted masking tape on a piece of glass,then when dry they're easily peeled off with the help of a #11 blade & then stuck down on the prepared false deck. Thixofix was previously marketed by Dunlop, I buy it from Amazon.

Present builds
Occre Montanes, Occre Beagle, Billing Bounty, & Corel 1:90 Victory (put aside for a 'rainy day' as I am not too impressed with the kit)
Previous builds;
Mamoli Blue Shadow
Mantua Constitution
In the Box:
Panhart 1:70 Victory, & Seagal Cutty Sark
 
My experience with contact cement - you apply the cement to BOTH surfaces and allow to dry. Then when you stick the two items together, they're done. And in the US, there are water-based and solvent based versions. They're not something I would consider viable in model building because they're so finicky to work with. What are your experiences?
 
Last edited:
Philski said:
My experience with contact cement - you aply the cement to BOTH surfaces and allow to dry. Then when you stick the two items together, they're done. And in the US, there are water-based and solvent based versions. They're not something I would consider viable in model building because they're so finicky to work with. What are your experiences?
Click to expand...
My experience is the same. Once you put the pieces together you can not adjust them. They are stuck for good.
 
Hello
If you can stand it ...
Pear glue
(Cow glue)
You can buy it in pre-made plastic bottles.
It works and you can still see it’s sticking power in museum ships.

you can undo it via heat (iron).....

yes
What has been recommended is good.

McCarthy book gives a very good description of glues with reasons.

Of course if ?
You want to do it, now!
Contact adhesive.
Super glue gel (???)

Hope it helps?

Ps
Remember wood species and sealing, if necessary?
 
I used ordinairy White glue. Wood glue. Water based or non water based. (Pattex) Both sides a thin layer, let this dry till the glue started to get transparant. Then put both pieces together. And with a hot iron you ironing the veneer in place.
Very old method that works very good. This method is used by audio speaker builders, who teached me.
 
Hermies said:
Hello
If you can stand it ...
Pear glue
(Cow glue)
You can buy it in pre-made plastic bottles.
It works and you can still see it’s sticking power in museum ships.

you can undo it via heat (iron).....

yes
What has been recommended is good.

McCarthy book gives a very good description of glues with reasons.

Of course if ?
You want to do it, now!
Contact adhesive.
Super glue gel (???)

Hope it helps?

Ps
Remember wood species and sealing, if necessary?
Click to expand...
Known as Hide Glue. Titebond sells it in the US.
 

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Philski said:
My experience with contact cement - you apply the cement to BOTH surfaces and allow to dry. Then when you stick the two items together, they're done. And in the US, there are water-based and solvent based versions. They're not something I would consider viable in model building because they're so finicky to work with. What are your experiences?
Click to expand...
This is exactly why I no longer use adhesives such as Pattex, Uhu etc. Ponal, water-based, sticks immediately, you don't need needles etc., but there is an open time of approx. 10 minutes. That is enough to make corrections.
 
I find Titebond works fine, don’t use too much and there is a reasonable ’grab’ with still enough time to adjust if needed.
 
I just checked Manni's recommendation and see that Ponal Express is available in France on Amazon (as well as other sites).
I'll get one and give it a try
 
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