Rigging cannons without blocks

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For those of us who hate to rig cannons, here's a great idea. I've not yet seen this method of securing a cannon when not in use. The train tackles are attached to the carriage and bulwark by hooks, so they can be removed. The breeching line is then lashed across the top of the cannon barrel. Slick!breeching.jpg
 
I like better the fully rigged Cannon, this way looks like something is missing from the setup, I get it, easier but easier not always better.
 
Keeping true to the nature of this site, we all build to what pleases the builder. My personal preference is using the blocks, but that’s just me. Scale is an age old problem when building out of the box. For 1:64 I order blocks anywhere from 2mm to 5mm. for cannon rigging in this scale I find 2mm blocks from the bulwark looks just fine. We all at some point make a few minor adjustments for the workability of scale. Dave’s picture is an excellent example of the whole cannon rigging process out of scale. In my view if looks wrong to the builder it is wrong, In this case I would step back and reattack the problem ring or block to the bulwark, it’s the builders choice, I think either is a better alternative to being happy with something just for the sake of moving along. If scale modelling was always easy then it would be not much of a hobby. Again, just my opinion
 
I would like to see more views of that cannon in the first post. I have nearly finished a model of the revenue cutter by Lindberg Since it only sports 6 cannons I figured I would rig them to the best of my knowledge, but after getting 4 of them done I wasn't happy with the results. This was a relatively cheap plastic kit and I've already spent more time and money on it than I had ever planned to. It has been sitting at this stage for over a year. Not far from completion so I figure I better get the lead out of my pants and finish it.

cannon rigging 001.jpgcannon rigging 002.jpg
 
I agree with Dave, in my case I'd rather not have them rigged than to have them be way out of scale. On my Victory cross section the blocks are the same size as the wheels on the carriages, that has always bothered me. Coming from the N Scale train world 1:160 scale. I did a lot of trying to create the illusion or feeling where detail can't be added. On my 1:93 Constitution I've been thinking about trying to use wire to create a premade canon rigging that would give the illusion of being rigged but not have the actual blocks. Or possibly adding simulated blocks with a little putty or glue. Something that could be done before putting the canon on the ship.

Unless your going for a model show win, a typical model viewer is way more likely to notice what doesn't look right than what is missing IMO. I'd just like to see that neat detailed look but mot cluttered with excess sized rigging.

I'm also looking forward to my next build which will be at 1:50 instead of 1:93 :)
 
I agree with Dave, in my case I'd rather not have them rigged than to have them be way out of scale. On my Victory cross section the blocks are the same size as the wheels on the carriages, that has always bothered me. Coming from the N Scale train world 1:160 scale. I did a lot of trying to create the illusion or feeling where detail can't be added. On my 1:93 Constitution I've been thinking about trying to use wire to create a premade canon rigging that would give the illusion of being rigged but not have the actual blocks. Or possibly adding simulated blocks with a little putty or glue. Something that could be done before putting the canon on the ship.

Unless your going for a model show win, a typical model viewer is way more likely to notice what doesn't look right than what is missing IMO. I'd just like to see that neat detailed look but mot cluttered with excess sized rigging.

I'm also looking forward to my next build which will be at 1:50 instead of 1:93 :)
You are right and I agree also here with Dave
In order to get a feeling for the sizes of the ropes and blocks of a long gun rigging take a look at these photos:

Hermione and Victory
aa (2).jpg ab.jpg ac.jpg
 
I would like to see more views of that cannon in the first post. I have nearly finished a model of the revenue cutter by Lindberg Since it only sports 6 cannons I figured I would rig them to the best of my knowledge, but after getting 4 of them done I wasn't happy with the results. This was a relatively cheap plastic kit and I've already spent more time and money on it than I had ever planned to. It has been sitting at this stage for over a year. Not far from completion so I figure I better get the lead out of my pants and finish it.


I’d like to see a few more detailed views as well. I like the idea.
 
I agree in general, Zoly. But trying to fully rig a 3 or 4 pounder at 1:64 is so difficult, this is an attractive alternative. The biggest mistake I see is blocks out of scale for the cannon being rigged. Nothing ruins a model quicker, IMO!

View attachment 67929


Man! That is some tight rigging. Very impressive. Correct rigging in tight spots like this is a job indeed. Not sure I would have appreciated the scale if not for the penny. Very nice.
 
Hi Alex!
Here's the easiest way I've found to handle the train tackle. Find a piece of clear plastic, and with a sharpie draw the outline of the shape and size of coil you want. Flip the plastic over and lay a couple of pieces of double sided tape over the outline. Coil the line, conforming to the shape and sticking it to the sticky tape. Cut the coil from your line. Using diluted PVA glue (I use Elmer's white glue) soak the coil in the the glue solution. When dry, remove from the tape. Cut off your tackle near where the coil will be and glue it to the deck. Glue your coil to the deck, hiding the end of the tackle you just glued down. The results are the last photo. Hope this helps!


coil1.jpgcoil2.jpgcoil3.jpgcoil4.jpgcoil5.jpg
 
If you are a complete glutton for punishment Alex,you could coil the actual rigging lines using tweezers and coil on the deck and spot glue as you go using thick CA.I did this on Royal Caroline and was determined to get something that looked natural.I used the same technique on the breaching ropes to get them to conform.
Not a million miles away from what Dave suggested

Kind Regards

Nigel
IMG_1254 - Copy.JPG
 
Just was reading the latest posts here:
Do not forget, that the stored location of the coil (or rope) depends on the status the ship would have:
With the rope coiled like the photos by Nigel and Dave, it would mean -> Ready for action! The ropes are laying on the deck, so the gunners can use the ropes to move the gun for loading etc.
=> if there is no action to be expected the ropes would be stored and not laying on deck, otherwise they would be a tripping hazard on the day to day business on the deck
than it would be like these photos are showing
Nigels example is showing two activities in the same time:
1) Ready for action with the guns
2) Ready for lifting the anchor, because the capstan is fully prepared, usually the HANDSPIKES or CAPSTAN BARS are stored and only installed in the capstan, when the capstan is used for lifting activities (loading, anchor lifting, installing yards, etc. (Sorry Nigel for the comment)
Capstan.jpg

This photo is only for show - usually over the complete length of the bar the sailors would be needed to turn the capstan (and also no rope is visible)
power_pulley_capstan1.jpg
 
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