What is the best way to tie or rig lanyards with 1/8 “ bullseyes.
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Rigging lanyards
- Thread starter Buffalo Jack
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From MSW forum member Wefalck (France): A bullseye is meant to serve as guide to redirect a run of rope that is vormally no movement of the rope. A lanyard, being running rigging, would be moved or adjusted, so blocks or fairleads would be preferred. Standing rigging, which is seldom worked, would be the lines that bullseyes would normally be used for. Bulleyes were frequently used in lieu of deadeyes in standing rigging from the late 18th century on.
Are you sure you meant bullseyes? Running rigging was usually redirected using blocks. Perhaps other members can shed some light on how to manage the web of running rigging such that lines do not get twisted around each other or tangled. I've always run lanyards and other lines through lubbers holes on tops, being careful in arranging the so as not to allow them to be twisted around each other.
Are you sure you meant bullseyes? Running rigging was usually redirected using blocks. Perhaps other members can shed some light on how to manage the web of running rigging such that lines do not get twisted around each other or tangled. I've always run lanyards and other lines through lubbers holes on tops, being careful in arranging the so as not to allow them to be twisted around each other.
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Bullseyes, hearts, and deadeyes are all rigged with lanyards. Bullseyes are used on standing rigging that's not going to be moved much instead of blocks that require much more maintenance. The lanyards are typically tarred along with the normally served and tarred rigging they're keeping tension on.
How you rig them on a model, along with hearts, depends on scale, materials. situation. For instance, on a plastic kit, or very lightly wooden build, too much tension will deform the rig or pull the anchoring fasteners off (ie: plastic eye-bolts).
Typically the standing line is cut to length, a bullseye or heart spliced into it's end, another bullseye or heart attached to another line or eye-bolt and the lanyard laced in to tension the stay. On a model the bulls-eyes and lanyards may be laced up first to set the distance between bullseyes, then the stay run around the loose bullseye and spliced/seized with the desired tension. Dead-eyes on models are often done this way, with the deadeyes and lanyards laced first, and the shrouds seized on after ward.
How you rig them on a model, along with hearts, depends on scale, materials. situation. For instance, on a plastic kit, or very lightly wooden build, too much tension will deform the rig or pull the anchoring fasteners off (ie: plastic eye-bolts).
Typically the standing line is cut to length, a bullseye or heart spliced into it's end, another bullseye or heart attached to another line or eye-bolt and the lanyard laced in to tension the stay. On a model the bulls-eyes and lanyards may be laced up first to set the distance between bullseyes, then the stay run around the loose bullseye and spliced/seized with the desired tension. Dead-eyes on models are often done this way, with the deadeyes and lanyards laced first, and the shrouds seized on after ward.