Rigging masts

[jimmystratos]

Some wisdom of experience required please!
I am almost at the stage of starting the rigging. Mantua's instruction manual is not necessarily the most helpful.
I have seen build logs where the masts have been stepped bare, then standing rigging added in situ, and others recommending adding as much rigging to the masts as possible on the bench before stepping. My hunch is that the latter gives more angles of approach for things like blocks hanging under mast tops and access to parrals, jeers etc. what are the pros and cons of both approaches?
Thanks folks, this learning curve sure has a gradient!

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Jimmy, the option is yours.

There are pros and cons to all options.

I am by no means an expert on rigging, having done only simple single mast ships.

In reviewing build logs and help topics, what seems to be most popular is to assemble as much off ship as possible for mast and trees, then attach mast and rig standing rigging such as shrouds and stays, which must be installed on ship.

Of course even some of this can be done off ship when starting at one end of lines that attach to new mast.

Other have said on tall multi section masts to work one level at a time and work up as you go, to make installation of rigging easier, as you have better access with top mast section not attached.

Most folks I have seen do most of rigging on the yards off ship and then attach to masts when its complete.

I am guessing you know basic rigging terms and difference in standing and running rigging?

Each has different purpose and color design of rigging.

Let me know if you need any other help.

Kurt Konrath

 

[polydoc]

By all means scrutinize the plans carefully and do as much rigging off the model as you can. It will make life much easier. It also helps to follow the recommended rigging progression of doing the lower masts first, starting with the bowsprit and working aft, then work your way up to the top masts and finally top gallants.

 

[Atamini]

Installing of the masts first is the norm for standing rigging and of course running rigging to be completed once installed. However installation of blocks should be installed to the masts etc prior as this will become difficult once on the model. Definitely rig the model bowsprit first, lower fore mast, lower main mast and mizzen. Then the next level up leaving the yards and sails to last. This is how a real ship is rigged and for the same reason as on a model it’s the most practical.

 

[Dave Teel]

 

[Dave Teel]

I found that riggiong the masts prior to stepping made it much easier to install detailed rigging. Also made it simpler to belay interior lines before completing the shroud lines.

 

[Brewbrarian]

I'm quite new to modeling as well, but I do agree with Dave in that it's significantly easier getting the minute lines threaded and belayed first at least for those at the base of the mast in the center of the mass of lines. (These can be very difficult to reach on a small scale ship when the shrouds and other lines are blocking every approach angle. Once those are in place, then you have your masts well in position before adding shrouds.
Of course tradition and any progressive method of ship rigging would have to have the masts, shrouds, etc. secured first on a real ship, but we don't have to do it that way on model. We can choose an order that keeps easier to get to those already hard to reach spaces, and this can contribute to a cleaner job.

 

[Dave Teel]

I used this method.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

This is all good information to know on rigging.

I am just glad that I don't have to deal with all the real taring and extra work done on real vessel for standing rigging.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Ok a question on mast rigging

What color of rope would normally be used to rig deadeyes top to bottom deadeye?

I have seen it done with both black for standing rigging and tan for running rigging?

What is the logic?

Spock says this is not logical to him!

 

[Uwek]

Ok a question on mast rigging

What color of rope would normally be used to rig deadeyes top to bottom deadeye?

I have seen it done with both black for standing rigging and tan for running rigging?

What is the logic?

Spock says this is not logical to him!

Do you mean the deadeye lashing?


A good question and it is hard to answer.....

The replica of the Hermione, which is as much as possible built like the original (especially the rigging) has natural lashings which are tarred

Hermione - a 32-gun Concorde-class frigate fitted for 12-pounder guns - dockyards of Rochefort, France

During the visit of the modelers event in Rochefort I had the chance to visit also the frigate Hermione in the docks of Rochefort. In the first post you can find a short description, following the photos I made during my visit....if questions, please do not hesitate to ask photo by Uwe From...

shipsofscale.com

The Constitution has black lashings, but it looks like modern colored ropes

Aloft and A-low - USS Constitution Museum

The warm summer days in the Charlestown Navy Yard are a boon for USS Constitution‘s current restoration in Dry Dock 1. The Naval History & Heritage. . .

ussconstitutionmuseum.org

The HMS Victory has "tan" lashings

The Poop Deck | HMS Victory

I do not know, if there were fixed regulations in the different navies.....
on one hand this part of the ship and the rigging was often exposed to seawater and sun / weather which would speak for tar,
but on the other hand it was a lashing, which admits easy and rapid lengthening or shortening of the rigging ......

I have no final answer in moment

Personally I like the contrast in color, so I would rig the lashing on my model with "tan" rope....

 

[Atamini]

The rope for lashing the dead eyes are always tarred as they will be constantly exposed to sea water. For whatever reason on Victory they haven’t been tarred but when she was actually sailing you can pretty much guarantee they would have been tarred. But for a model, it’s your model so if you prefer to take the artistic license and want the contrast nobody is really going to say anything about it. Though if you want accuracy, use black or at least dark brown thread.

 

[Uwek]

It is really an interesting point and discussion.
Yes, the lanyards were exposed to the seawater, but also the running rigging, which was not tared, due to the fact, that the seamen had to handle them and they had to be able to clasp the rope without slip through the hands.
But somehow the lanyards were part of the running rigging - they had to be tightened regular, in order to adjust different tensioning / lengthening of the different shrouds.....
I am still not convinced, that they had to be tarred in principle.......

 

[Atamini]

It is really an interesting point and discussion.
Yes, the lanyards were exposed to the seawater, but also the running rigging, which was not tared, due to the fact, that the seamen had to handle them and they had to be able to clasp the rope without slip through the hands.
But somehow the lanyards were part of the running rigging - they had to be tightened regular, in order to adjust different tensioning / lengthening of the different shrouds.....
I am still not convinced, that they had to be tarred in principle.......

The tarred shrouds are easily tensioned when tarred, it’s not like bitumen and still quite pliable. I’m only saying this from experience of 12 years as a working bosun on sailing ships. I’ve worked on four replica ships which we would always tar the shroud lanyards. The running rigging and all the running rigging was covered in lard and applied constantly to protect the rigging as much as possible. On a working replica like the Endeavour, Duyfken and Batavia I can tell you you get covered in all sorts of muck because of the rigging the last sailing ship I worked on as the second mate- bosun was a modern barquentine, all the standing rigging was steal but coated in Stockholm tar. For the running rigging we used modern polyester like so it didn’t require any use of lard.