Rigging the deadeyes at the shrouds

LuigiSoft

LuigiSoft

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Bad Homburg, near Frankfurt am Main
I have a question relating to the rigging of the deadeyes at the shrouds of the lower and upper masts:
The colour of the standing rigging is usually black, while the running rigging is usually a light colour. I consider the rigging at the shrouds to be standing rigging. I stand corrected, if this is not the case. Should the rope at the shrouds, therefore, be black and not tan?
As always, I appreciate any pointers from the conoscenti.
Many thanks.
Trevor.

Shrouds rigging q. SOS.jpg
 
This is one I have seen go both ways, some consider it running as the dead eyes are adjusted to keep taught.

Most say they are fixed and darker color as they don't move much once adjusted.

Maybe one of the more experienced builders can give a more definitive answer that I have.
 
LuigiSoft said:
I have a question relating to the rigging of the deadeyes at the shrouds of the lower and upper masts:
The colour of the standing rigging is usually black, while the running rigging is usually a light colour. I consider the rigging at the shrouds to be standing rigging. I stand corrected, if this is not the case. Should the rope at the shrouds, therefore, be black and not tan?
Click to expand...
Hello Trevor.
Hemp was the basic material for all ropes, mostly coming from Russia and India. From 1830 Manila hemp was often used. All ropes with a few exceptions, such as tiller ropes and signal halyards were tarred and therefore appeared dark brown in color. Running rigging would not normally be tarred again after the manufacture and over a period of time, exposed to the elements, it would lighten in color. Standing rigging however was re-tarred or "blacked down" at fairly frequent intervals and consequently darkened with the time becoming almost black.

If you think about the deadeyes as kinda blocks, they were used to set up\tenstioned all shrouds and some stays, backstays. Then, the deadeye's lanyard is the running rigging and tarred only once, when manufactured.
 
Jimsky said:
Hello Trevor.
Hemp was the basic material for all ropes, mostly coming from Russia and India. From 1830 Manila hemp was often used. All ropes with a few exceptions, such as tiller ropes and signal halyards were tarred and therefore appeared dark brown in color. Running rigging would not normally be tarred again after the manufacture and over a period of time, exposed to the elements, it would lighten in color. Standing rigging however was re-tarred or "blacked down" at fairly frequent intervals and consequently darkened with the time becoming almost black.

If you think about the deadeyes as kinda blocks, they were used to set up\tenstioned all shrouds and some stays, backstays. Then, the deadeye's lanyard is the running rigging and tarred only once, when manufactured.
Click to expand...
Hello Jim,

Many thanks for your response. So, for the sake of authentication, the ropes at the deadeyes should be stained to reflect their tarring. I will leave these ropes either a natural colour or stain them light brown.

On another subject, I have just completed the euphroes for the crows feet.
Would the rope tying these euphroes to the bowsprit have a block at its end or does the rope come straight off the euphroes down to the bowsprit?
Maybe the euphroes are considered to be the block itself and therefore not requiring an additional block. Che sa?

Trevor.

Euphroes - Anfrage an SOS.jpg
 
LuigiSoft said:
Hello Jim,

Many thanks for your response. So, for the sake of authentication, the ropes at the deadeyes should be stained to reflect their tarring. I will leave these ropes either a natural colour or stain them light brown.

On another subject, I have just completed the euphroes for the crows feet.
Would the rope tying these euphroes to the bowsprit have a block at its end or does the rope come straight off the euphroes down to the bowsprit?
Maybe the euphroes are considered to be the block itself and therefore not requiring an additional block. Che sa?

Trevor.

View attachment 274275
Click to expand...
So...question. In making your deadeye rigging, what is your preferred thread? To scale of course, but I am wondering do you use kit supplied thread, or replace it with rope (i.e. Syren) and what material. Cotton, polyester, blended?
 
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Hello Trevor.
The Euphroes were long wooden rods or flat blocks which had drilled holes instead of sheaves. They served as guide blocks for the crow's feet. In16/17th century it ends with a rope loop. Later, 18th century the loop was reinforced with a round thimble. The blocks were attached to the loop.

1638979710982.png
1638979844302.png
 
Jimsky said:
Hello Trevor.
The Euphroes were long wooden rods or flat blocks which had drilled holes instead of sheaves. They served as guide blocks for the crow's feet. In16/17th century it ends with a rope loop. Later, 18th century the loop was reinforced with a round thimble. The blocks were attached to the loop.

View attachment 274320
View attachment 274321
Click to expand...
Hi Jim,
Much appreciated. I now know much more than a day ago.

In addition, the shape of the euphroe changed over the centuries. The image below from Peter Holz's book "Historic shipsmodels from kits" (in German) shows how the shape changed.
No 1 is 15th. and 16th. centuries, 2 a side view and No.3 is 18th century

Trevor

eurphroe 18 century_1.jpg
 
LuigiSoft said:
I have a question relating to the rigging of the deadeyes at the shrouds of the lower and upper masts:
The colour of the standing rigging is usually black, while the running rigging is usually a light colour. I consider the rigging at the shrouds to be standing rigging. I stand corrected, if this is not the case. Should the rope at the shrouds, therefore, be black and not tan?
As always, I appreciate any pointers from the conoscenti.
Many thanks.
Trevor.

View attachment 274178
Click to expand...
Hallo Trevor,
as I know the seamen had to tension the shroud one time or other - therefore in my oipinion they were not tarred
Only one additional comment:
The lower deadeyes shown in the photo are wrongly installed - one hole should be at the bottom, so a standing triangle - mirrored to the upper deadeye
Shrouds rigging q. SOS.jpg 28f4a587542388d859c1a36fcc2a45db.jpg
 
Uwek said:
Hallo Trevor,
as I know the seamen had to tension the shroud one time or other - therefore in my oipinion they were not tarred
Only one additional comment:
The lower deadeyes shown in the photo are wrongly installed - one hole should be at the bottom, so a standing triangle - mirrored to the upper deadeye
View attachment 274518 View attachment 274519
Click to expand...
I wonder if the builder of the model is aware of the fact. I took a snapshot of his deadeyes to underline my question.
 
How do you guys keep all the dead eye shrouds the same length do you use a jig if so what jig is a good one. Thanks John
 
I saw those, but couldn't see how you could rig pairs of shrouds on small models, it seemed too big and you need two sets? Others who have used it may enlighten! Making the little jigs was simple, I made two pairs so that I could set the opposing port and starboard shroud pairs at the same time, tie everything off and then leave the shrouds out of the way while i did all the other rigging.
 
On my Cutty Sark, lanyards are specified as hemp in Campbell rigging plan. Thus I used tan Syren rope.

In order to keep deadeyes at the same height,, I made two "jigs", one for 5mm deadeyes and one for 4mm deadeyes. Figured out the scale distance and cut two pieces of old CD jewel case. This allows me to line up multiple deadeyes at one time.
 
cuttyjimr said:
On my Cutty Sark, lanyards are specified as hemp in Campbell rigging plan. Thus I used tan Syren rope.

In order to keep deadeyes at the same height,, I made two "jigs", one for 5mm deadeyes and one for 4mm deadeyes. Figured out the scale distance and cut two pieces of old CD jewel case. This allows me to line up multiple deadeyes at one time.
Click to expand...
Can you share a picture of the jig you have described.
 
First photo are the two pieces cut out of jewel box. Blue tape added for visibility. Pre-made deadeyes as shown at top. Adjust to correct height by drawing down on middle section of lanyard until right (with stopper knot on reverse of deadeye) and middle are snug against plastic, then take up remaining slack in third leg.
Second photo shows jig application on model.
Final adjustments to come as rigging progresses.
Let me know if there are any questions.
Probably more accurate to label the plastic as gages, rather than jig.
 

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Jeff T said:
Can you share a picture of the jig you have described.
Click to expand...
I just use a firm piece of wire that i bend to look like a C with square edges. you insert the short ends in holes in the two deadeyes when you secure the deadeye and they stay uniform. Once I've reeved the shrouds I tie them securely but don't glue the knots (it's a good idea to secure the servings with superglue) until everything's done. That way if for some reason one is out of line you can fix it.

One other point on the original question about the colour of the ropes. I know the shrouds would be black because they would be tarred, but always thought that the reeving ropes would be clean because they would have to move in the deadeyes and tar might make them stick?
 

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Interesting discussion on the deadeye lanyards…I have always rigged the deadeyes with black thread treating them as part of the standing rigging of the shrouds. I will take a closer look at this issue as I come to the rigging phase of my current build the Revenge (1577). Many kits I have built indicated black thread for the lanyards which could have been entirely wrong historically. Hmmm…going to have to pay more attention to this detail!
 
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