Saint Philippe 1693 by OlegM

[AllanKP69]

so the silicon has to be able to sustain 200--300 C.

The silicone molding materials I use are from Polytek are only good to about 230 C. I have not used Weicon 300 but it is supposed to be good for temperatures of 300C. Weicon HT 300 red silicone is highly flexible, with an elongation at break of 500% so might work for a single piece mold.
Allan

 

[OlegM]

That's interesting. However, I see a difficulty in making vents and then extracting the part with the metal that has filled those vents and now is attached to the model in the form of thin strings

 

[OlegM]

All the wooden parts for carriages, anchors and boats are done

 

[OlegM]

And these are the anchors, 3 x 5000, 4000 and 1800

 

[OlegM]

I continue to fight the running rigging color, which on the finished model appears too light, especially on the photos, almost white, contrary to how the threads look in the cones.
On the photo below:
Bonhomme Richard, had tera color 722 and scala color 633
Royal William had tera and scala color 464
Saint Philippe will have tera color 444 and scala color 180

 

[kuba91nt]

Don't you think that color no 180 in sunlight is too navy/blue? Black is colors 000 or 999

 

[OlegM]

Don't you think that color no 180 in sunlight is too navy/blue? Black is colors 000 or 999

color 180 for scala is not blue, it's light brown. On the photo it's the cone rightmost, the one that is closer to us. Tera 444 is behind it
Black (000) is used for standing rigging, the single cone in the front, no change here among all my models

 

[kuba91nt]

You're right, my fault. Instead of color 180 it displays me a navy blue thread with 180tex gradation. I have other colors, so i think its blue. Good threads.

 

[AllanKP69]

Black (000) is used for standing rigging, the single cone in the front

When standing rigging was treated, wouldn't it be more the color of pine tar (dark brown or grayish brown). I don't think they used coal tar (black) on the ships you listed. Stockholm tar and pine tar from the Americas probably varied in color but I don't think any of them was really black.
Allan

 

[OlegM]

When standing rigging was treated, wouldn't it be more the color of pine tar (dark brown or grayish brown). I don't think they used coal tar (black) on the ships you listed. Stockholm tar and pine tar from the Americas probably varied in color but I don't think any of them was really black.
Allan

oh yeah, that's a known fact. Black threads is my personal choice (for now)

 

[OlegM]

I have finally casted all the cannons...
You know, usually, when you tried something once, it ended not so bad, and then you think - ok, so next time will be better, I have expereince now. Ah no! It is the opposite... I have to admit that my cannons this time turned out to be worse, not better than my Royal William cannons.

 

[OlegM]

I received almost all the wood I will need for this project - about 80-85%. 16kg...

 

[OlegM]

And now I can show my color scheme. Decorations will be in pear.
The sample is devided in 3 sections, from left to right - tung oil, danish oil, teak oil. All three sections then treated with bithumen varnish.
And yes, I do not see any eventual differences between the 3 sections. The oils are slightly different in terms of viscosity, smell, drying time, but the final result is still the same. Teak oil smells fish for me, but danish oil smell is the worst. Tung oil is the thickest and dries the longest.

After oil:



After bithumen:



On the next photos you can see how the pink hornbeam changes color before and after treatment. These photos also at different lighting:

 

[Tobias]

I received almost all the wood I will need for this project - about 80-85%. 16kg...

View attachment 527878View attachment 527879View attachment 527880

Hello Oleg,
great workshop and excellent preparation. One question about the wood: it seems to be from Vahur. If so, the red or pink wood, it's dyed hornbeam.

 

[OlegM]

Hello Oleg,
great workshop and excellent preparation. One question about the wood: it seems to be from Vahur. If so, the red or pink wood, it's dyed hornbeam.

Yes to both questions

 

[Albert Mary]

I have finally casted all the cannons...
You know, usually, when you tried something once, it ended not so bad, and then you think - ok, so next time will be better, I have expereince now. Ah no! It is the opposite... I have to admit that my cannons this time turned out to be worse, not better than my Royal William cannons.

View attachment 527577View attachment 527578View attachment 527579View attachment 527580View attachment 527581View attachment 527582View attachment 527583View attachment 527584View attachment 527585

To me, these guns look just unbelievable, period.

 

[OlegM]

I blackened everything this weekend. Don't ask why middledeck cannon is different color - I don't know...

 

[serikoff]

And now I can show my color scheme. Decorations will be in pear.
The sample is devided in 3 sections, from left to right - tung oil, danish oil, teak oil. All three sections then treated with bithumen varnish.
And yes, I do not see any eventual differences between the 3 sections. The oils are slightly different in terms of viscosity, smell, drying time, but the final result is still the same. Teak oil smells fish for me, but danish oil smell is the worst. Tung oil is the thickest and dries the longest.

After oil:

View attachment 527882

After bithumen:

View attachment 527883

On the next photos you can see how the pink hornbeam changes color before and after treatment. These photos also at different lighting:

View attachment 527884View attachment 527885View attachment 527886

Thank you for sharing the result. I am doing something similar. And I have a couple of questions. What oil do you use, namely the brands of all three oils. And how do you dilute it, or do you apply it pure? What bitumen do you use and approximately how do you dilute it? I saw a difference in my experiments and I liked the tung one more, although it dries longer.



Here's my color scheme. The signature on the Alert link goes into detail about it.

I blackened everything this weekend. Don't ask why middledeck cannon is different color - I don't know...

View attachment 528189View attachment 528190View attachment 528191View attachment 528192View attachment 528193

I know how you do it, but could you describe the process in a little more detail? I think many people are interested in this. Copper sulfate, and what do you then blacken and polish with? And why do you think the blackening has a matte finish?

How long do you keep the parts in the solution (медный купорос?) and after that, how do you blacken and polish them?

Very good work, I always watch you!