see where they should go but still a little stumped as to how to attach neatly; I just sense lots of individual loops around the sprit will look unbalanced and untidy. Peter
- I have decided to proceed along the following lines. I had an 'S' shaped loop of 0.5 natural line which I held in my clamps, seized each end to form a secure loop into which I placed a heart shaped block and a deadeye at each end. I tightened the seizing and then drew the lines tight around the blocks whilst preserving the central space. I slipped the piece over the bowsprit an then, when the correct position, tightened the lines to clamp it; then applied a little watered PVA to secure in place. I used the wrong line so used some India ink to dye it black. The key is the correct seizing line; if it is too thin - i.e. cotton, it wont hold the tension around the mast and the knot slips. I used 0.25mm line to seize. Seems to work okay. For the aft securing (4 blocks) I will secure two at a time an dthen abut the lines. Peter
That's the best way I know how. It's a bit complicated but the results are neat. I had to secure pairs of 2mm blocks to the bowsprit of La Couronne and used the same method, but it was much thinner thread and smaller blocks. Needle nosed pliers are good for tiny work!
Aside from the drawing and suggested attachment with lines, I question if the forces to be restrained in the actual full size conditions would have been "lashed with lines"? In my mind there could have been a metal band with extensions on the appropriate sides/places with holes for links to each block. A mechanical anchor and not a line. The band would have to be very narrow and a challenge to make but with the "ears" sticking out for the blocks and associated holes for fine wire stropped blocks I think it would be closer to shipbuilding/rigging reality that is often passed by in model builds. Just a sideliner's thoughts and not those of an expert or historian. PT-2
On later 18th and 19th century vessels you would find metal bands on yards to secure block strops to. Generally, on older ships, rope was commonly used in place of iron for many rigging attachments. Block strops were rope, as were mast wooldings, and anchor rope, not chain. See the sheet and clue line blocks attached to the yard below on the 18th century ship. Every time you research into a ship from a different time, you see changes in materials and rigging methods. Generalizations are hard to make because information on actual ships is full of holes and variations not just across time and country of origin, but between individual vessels abound. The amount of guesswork building a 17th century and a well documented 19th century English ship model is VAST. Imagine trying to build an accurate replica of an ancient Greek or Egyptian vessel...
There are surviving examples of Egyptian boats that were excavated by the Great Pyramid as I recall a few decades back with everything present if not actually in place. That would be one to look at for some questions. However the ships of war and others that our builders are interested in depend upon more current "historians" whose opinions as you say vary, not necessarily right or wrong but differing interpretations of their sources and sometimes from the same one. It will be interesting to see how you work it our in your ship model. PT-2
Yeah, trying to build an accurate model was a lot more research work that I bargained for, and you never has all the information you want.
Nice work Donnie!
I agree with your decision for your own build as we all produce only models with a scale and appearance that we desire. . . usually not in actual scale which would appear strange. Just my thought. PT-2
I tie the blocks in line, at a distance of the diameter of the bowsprite, and tie the free ends underneath so that they sit either side (like saddle bags). The whole through the spar works well for single blocks especially to ensure correct position. I put free end through the hole beneath the block , take each up and around a full turn and tie underneath. Alternatively, if there is room, pull them through the hole again with the first pass.
