Stay safe!
Serving machine
- Thread starter Red dragon
- Start date
- Watchers 10
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2021
- Messages
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Do you use Fusion 360? If you do and are not sure about any of the file, just let me know. Keep safe.
LONG MAY IT LIVE IN CHRITS NAME. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL
YES KEEP SAFE AND FREE. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
Customs are probably 'playing' with it, wondering WTH it is!Hi Janos these are pictures I took of the eBay site , that were on eBay , I’m still waiting for it to arrive from poland
I built my own motor powered server BTW.
I received my serving machine Friday but am on vacation and away from home for a few days. I only had a short while to check it out but initial impression is that I'm not very impressed, especiallyfor what it costs. Will post more about what I think of it when I return home.
Glenn
Glenn
- Joined
- May 17, 2022
- Messages
- 126
- Points
- 78
Hi enjoy your vacation, I’ve got mine as well As well days ago well compare notes when you get back
I like the design. You found enough space between the two rods to put fingers to handle the thread.
Bought gears, bearings, collars and brass tubing allon Amazon, a little scrap wood and assembly....
Hey guys, here're my two home made, the long one motorized plus a metre x 55mm x 70mm castello boxwood I received today (£42 ). I'm also showing off my version of Billing's Bounty - lot of scratch building. I haven't seen two Bounty models the same yet!
Stuart
Stuart
- Joined
- May 17, 2022
- Messages
- 126
- Points
- 78
Hi Stuart like your serving machine, lots of mechanical aptitude , and thinking outside of the box , I bought one from model shipyard ,£120 , had to assemble it myself, variable speed won’t go low enough , at medium speed thought it was going to take off , bits unscrewing and flying everywhere regards ian
Mine didn't want to turn slowly either.
There was a major design change made from when it was upgraded to the current model. Looking at the construction videos of the older model with the machined acrylic end pieces show two bearings supporting the hollow spindles that hold the rope being served. This gave much better support and controlled runout of the spindle-it ran true without wobbling. The current 3d printed design only has one bearing. This single bearing in conjunction with the 3d printed spacers, allows runout. The spindle wobbles along with the gear. The wobble in the gear has an adverse affect on the gear mesh which in turn creates drag. The motor has difficulty turning against this drag at slow speeds.
Long story short: design change is causing problems.
I can't, in good faith, recommend this current model with the single bearings.
I'm still on vacation...will post more about this in a couple of days. Feel free to ask for clarification if the above isn't clear.
Glenn
Gentlemen,
A suggestion if I could. Make sure the long threaded rod that holds the larger 'gears' has a little play in it. That is, it should be a little loose between the printed black frames such that you can wiggle it (the rod with gears attached) left to right (laterally). This removes some of the drag in the system allowing the unit to run at slower speeds (not to be confused with slow speeds - just slower speeds). There's not much wobble in the hollow spindles if the set-up is 'loose.' I cannot comment on the design change - I'm just sharing how I was able to make this thing work for me.
Mine does turn very slowly, it's probably due to me using a motor with reduction gearbox which I initially bought for my rope walk but was too slow for it.
After spending several hours it runs smoothly from slow to too fast.
What I did: First I cleaned up the 3d printed spacers on the short hollow spindles. Once I got the ends of the spacers parallel to one another the spindles ran truer (not much wobble). This helped the smaller gears run straighter.
Next I had to glue one of the larger gears to its hub as it was loose and would slide out of alignment. I used medium CA.
Then I checked and adjusted the mesh of the electric motor gear to the large gear it drives. The short spindles with the two medium size gears were removed for this so I was only working with the small gear on the motor and the large gears on the long all thread rod. These gears were adjusted with a bit of play as suggested by @dockattner.
Now that the gears ran straighter I installed the spindles with the medium gears, one at a time, to check the gear mesh. The two axles of the medium to large gears could us about .5mm more distance between them to loosen the mesh a bit. This extra space can only be done by reprinting the end pieces, so I worked with a jewelers file on the gears themselves until the gears would run smoothly at slow speeds while being driven with the electric motor.
This was a lot of time spent to make this work satisfactorily, as it should have out of the box.
After spending $160 US I expected a machine that ran as good as the previous models that received such high reviews and recommendations.
I have no issues with the change to 3d printing parts, I have a 3d printer myself and can appreciate decision to use it. I do have an issue with some of the other changes made:
First is changing from dual bearing support to single bearing support. The single bearing simply does not work as well.
Second is the way the end pieces attach to the base. Clamping from the sides as designed allows the top of the endpiece to move a considerable amount. Rotating the clamping force 90degrees so it clamps up/down would make the end pieces much more solid. This is the same method used to attach lathe tailstocks which must be very rigid.
This post is made with my best intentions, not to knock this machine but to point out some suggested improvements.
As I stated before I cannot recommend this machine as it currently is manufactured.
Glenn
What I did: First I cleaned up the 3d printed spacers on the short hollow spindles. Once I got the ends of the spacers parallel to one another the spindles ran truer (not much wobble). This helped the smaller gears run straighter.
Next I had to glue one of the larger gears to its hub as it was loose and would slide out of alignment. I used medium CA.
Then I checked and adjusted the mesh of the electric motor gear to the large gear it drives. The short spindles with the two medium size gears were removed for this so I was only working with the small gear on the motor and the large gears on the long all thread rod. These gears were adjusted with a bit of play as suggested by @dockattner.
Now that the gears ran straighter I installed the spindles with the medium gears, one at a time, to check the gear mesh. The two axles of the medium to large gears could us about .5mm more distance between them to loosen the mesh a bit. This extra space can only be done by reprinting the end pieces, so I worked with a jewelers file on the gears themselves until the gears would run smoothly at slow speeds while being driven with the electric motor.
This was a lot of time spent to make this work satisfactorily, as it should have out of the box.
After spending $160 US I expected a machine that ran as good as the previous models that received such high reviews and recommendations.
I have no issues with the change to 3d printing parts, I have a 3d printer myself and can appreciate decision to use it. I do have an issue with some of the other changes made:
First is changing from dual bearing support to single bearing support. The single bearing simply does not work as well.
Second is the way the end pieces attach to the base. Clamping from the sides as designed allows the top of the endpiece to move a considerable amount. Rotating the clamping force 90degrees so it clamps up/down would make the end pieces much more solid. This is the same method used to attach lathe tailstocks which must be very rigid.
This post is made with my best intentions, not to knock this machine but to point out some suggested improvements.
As I stated before I cannot recommend this machine as it currently is manufactured.
Glenn