I would like some advice as to putting a finish on the lower hull of my HMB Endeavour. I use a mineral oil from IKEA to treat my teak table and chairs, or could I use linseed oil then a flat coat to seal it? I realize this will darken the colour of the hull. Any help would be appreciated.
From several woodworking sites:
Mineral oil will never dry so you need to strip it from the surface of the wood with a solvent before you can safely overcoat with a 'drying' finish.
Linseed oil needs time to cure before receiving on over coat. This depends on the oil but typically takes 30-45 days before you can apply a topcoat of some kind.
Allan
Mineral oil will never dry so you need to strip it from the surface of the wood with a solvent before you can safely overcoat with a 'drying' finish.
Linseed oil needs time to cure before receiving on over coat. This depends on the oil but typically takes 30-45 days before you can apply a topcoat of some kind.
Allan
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What is your objective?
Are you trying to change the color of the hull, add gloss, “seal” the wood?
IMHO whatever you do, less is better. If you are trying to change the color, there are wood dyes that can be used. These are usually thinned with alcohol so will not raise the wood’s grain. I would NOT use a wood stain purchased at your local hardware or home improvement store. These are just pigments suspended in linseed or other oil. Put crudely, you’re smearing glop in your nicely finished model. I would include polyurethane, wipe on or brush on, in the glop dept.
I only have two models with a natural finish. My preferred subjects are better painted. Both unpainted models are about 40 years old. One, I sprayed with flat nitrocellulose lacquer mixed at a local auto paint store. Forty years later, it looks like new. (Recent photo below of model ). Today, I use Testor’s Dullcote. These lacquers have the advantage of providing a very thin, invisible film
My experience using Oil Finishes is limited to gunstocks. I have used both boiled linseed oil and proprietary oil based gunstock finishes. These are usually wiped on with a clean cloth and then rubbed in with fingers in a circular motion. As Allen says both eventually dry. Unlike ship models, gunstocks are typically finished with a semi or full gloss finish. I would not finish any ship model with one of these oil based finishes.
I have wondered how my two unpainted models would age if I had just left the wood without any finish at all. It would be interesting to know if any finish was applied to the original Dockyard models. All of my models are displayed in non-air tight glass cases.
Roger
Are you trying to change the color of the hull, add gloss, “seal” the wood?
IMHO whatever you do, less is better. If you are trying to change the color, there are wood dyes that can be used. These are usually thinned with alcohol so will not raise the wood’s grain. I would NOT use a wood stain purchased at your local hardware or home improvement store. These are just pigments suspended in linseed or other oil. Put crudely, you’re smearing glop in your nicely finished model. I would include polyurethane, wipe on or brush on, in the glop dept.
I only have two models with a natural finish. My preferred subjects are better painted. Both unpainted models are about 40 years old. One, I sprayed with flat nitrocellulose lacquer mixed at a local auto paint store. Forty years later, it looks like new. (Recent photo below of model ). Today, I use Testor’s Dullcote. These lacquers have the advantage of providing a very thin, invisible film
My experience using Oil Finishes is limited to gunstocks. I have used both boiled linseed oil and proprietary oil based gunstock finishes. These are usually wiped on with a clean cloth and then rubbed in with fingers in a circular motion. As Allen says both eventually dry. Unlike ship models, gunstocks are typically finished with a semi or full gloss finish. I would not finish any ship model with one of these oil based finishes.
I have wondered how my two unpainted models would age if I had just left the wood without any finish at all. It would be interesting to know if any finish was applied to the original Dockyard models. All of my models are displayed in non-air tight glass cases.
Roger
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I use a mixture of linseed oil and wood resin for coating. The amount of resin gives you the tone-light or dark you need.
Gives an aging effect and preservation from wood drying. Over time, the coating becomes lighter. I use this coating when restoring museum models
Gives an aging effect and preservation from wood drying. Over time, the coating becomes lighter. I use this coating when restoring museum models
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I think I'll follow your lead and spray with Testors flat lacquer.
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A product that I have had success with is "Watco" Danish Oil. It is a wipe on, wait 15 minutes and wipe dry. This product is a sealer and stain in one step. I prefer the Natural but I have used other colors on different woodworking projects. If you wish to use a topcoat waiting 72 hours is not to bad time wise. Always try a new or different finish on some scrap to see if it is what you want.
Ragnar
Ragnar
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Before shellac finishes were developed the finish of choice for fine furniture (and probably ship models) was 'spirit varnish' . This is very simple stuff, natural tree resin ( often Sandarac or Copal) dissolved in alcohol. Still used by Luthiers, and still on sale.
I've used paint and stains but stay away from poly. Have only used a clear satin spray-on poly a couple of times as it seemed to fit the models being done. As mentioned in one of the replies, try whatever you are going to use on some scrap until you get the effect you are looking for.
I see Watco Danish Oil recommended a lot but have never tried it. My go to is Minwax natural stain finish which is a clear stain and sealer like Watco. If you have hardwood hull planking it brings out the color without changing it.
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Hello Again, Just a though on sealers, Minwax and Watco are good products that seal. Over my years of working with wood I believe the final finish is very important to the success of the project. With a wooden ship model getting a sealer on as soon as the final sanding or surface preparation is completed protects the clean wood from dirt, skin oil, paint, and glues. If you are working on large or small sections of your project sealing as you go can aid to a uniform look; to the project you have committed your time, effort, and cost to.
Enjoy your projects.
Ragnar
Enjoy your projects.
Ragnar
Agreed. Also be sure to check the finish ingredients. "Linseed Oil" seems sometimes to be in the mind of the manufacturer rather than in the can, Linseed oil can sometimes yellow over time.