Sultana - Colonial Schooner, 1767 - by MS, Scale 1:64

moreplovac

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I started to work on deadeyes. The kit supplied one are 2.7mm in diameter. At first glance they shows a bit small and out of the scale for this model. In Chuck's practicum i did not find place where size of deadeyes is mentioned or i was tired and missed it completely.

The work on deadeyes was similar to what Chuck's was suggesting... with some additions. I measured the length of the whole deadeye assembly and mark it on the piece of wood (lets call it a board). Then two nails were pushed into board: one to hold a deadeye and another to hold the loop that will be nailed to the ship.. The 0.32mm wire was squeezed around the nail and around the deadeye forming the completed assembly.. Then i use a small amount of soldering paste and heat it to fill the gap between two wires...


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The intention is to paint the whole deadeye assembly in black. Then i decided to test it on the ship to see actually is it visually out of scale or just my eyes playing games with me...


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Well for me, it does appear to be a bit out of scale... Then i made one home build deadeye just for testing in 3mm and 4mm size.. They looked a bit more appealing to the scale... My skills to build home-made deadeyes are not quite at acceptable level so i made purchase of few deadeyes from Chuck' web site... They are coming.... 3mm and 4mm. Will see which one fits better...

While waiting for deadeyes, i started to work on quarter badges. Following Chuck' practicum i tried to make one out of sculpey and must say was not quite successful. They were looking more like a squeezed piece of chew gum spit on the sidewalk then actual usable badges... They are tiny, very tiny... So, i decided to use the ones that arrived with kit.

Clean them up a bit and cover with Tamiya earth color paint in attempt to simulate a wood.

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After drying, the excess paint was removed and they appeared to be ready for mounting..

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The windows were simulated with a tiny piece of wood and tracing paper colored in black..


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Then badges were glued to the "window" and the whole assembly was glued to the ship..


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Now when i look to this picture i need to fix that crooked window...


Happy modeling.
 

Donnie

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Thats nice. When I built my Sultana, it never occurred to me to put in the extra window panes. It is interesting as (speaking for myself) that as I learn more, I see a lot of mis-scaled items in kits.
 

moreplovac

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A bit of work was done on ship boat; yesterday i painted in black the molding that will be mounted on the boat. The molding was already shaped (few minutes in water and twisted around boat, secured with a rubber band).

The molding was then glued to the boat. There are few touch ups required but not a big deal.


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Inside of the boat was covered with golden oak stain, the same as rest of the ship.

Few other items, rudder, tow rope, a pair of oars will be added to complete the boat... To come...


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Happy modeling..
 

moreplovac

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Thats nice. When I built my Sultana, it never occurred to me to put in the extra window panes. It is interesting as (speaking for myself) that as I learn more, I see a lot of mis-scaled items in kits.
Yes, i noticed few of them as well...

As i progressing with my build, more and more i found myself thinking to start another Sultana (i have it on the shelf) as soon as i finish this one.
I am keeping some building notes for a future references...
 

Koreets

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I started to work on deadeyes. The kit supplied one are 2.7mm in diameter. At first glance they shows a bit small and out of the scale for this model. In Chuck's practicum i did not find place where size of deadeyes is mentioned or i was tired and missed it completely.

The work on deadeyes was similar to what Chuck's was suggesting... with some additions. I measured the length of the whole deadeye assembly and mark it on the piece of wood (lets call it a board). Then two nails were pushed into board: one to hold a deadeye and another to hold the loop that will be nailed to the ship.. The 0.32mm wire was squeezed around the nail and around the deadeye forming the completed assembly.. Then i use a small amount of soldering paste and heat it to fill the gap between two wires...


View attachment 57060

The intention is to paint the whole deadeye assembly in black. Then i decided to test it on the ship to see actually is it visually out of scale or just my eyes playing games with me...


View attachment 57061

Well for me, it does appear to be a bit out of scale... Then i made one home build deadeye just for testing in 3mm and 4mm size.. They looked a bit more appealing to the scale... My skills to build home-made deadeyes are not quite at acceptable level so i made purchase of few deadeyes from Chuck' web site... They are coming.... 3mm and 4mm. Will see which one fits better...

While waiting for deadeyes, i started to work on quarter badges. Following Chuck' practicum i tried to make one out of sculpey and must say was not quite successful. They were looking more like a squeezed piece of chew gum spit on the sidewalk then actual usable badges... They are tiny, very tiny... So, i decided to use the ones that arrived with kit.

Clean them up a bit and cover with Tamiya earth color paint in attempt to simulate a wood.

View attachment 57063

After drying, the excess paint was removed and they appeared to be ready for mounting..

View attachment 57059

The windows were simulated with a tiny piece of wood and tracing paper colored in black..


View attachment 57062

Then badges were glued to the "window" and the whole assembly was glued to the ship..


View attachment 57058

Now when i look to this picture i need to fix that crooked window...


Happy modeling.
Sorry, but I have a couple of words here:
1/ The crossing planks in window are TOO wide. Reduce the thickness twice at least
2/ Try to use some wethering, bituminous varnish for instance, to give the ornanent some volume
 

moreplovac

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Sorry, but I have a couple of words here:
1/ The crossing planks in window are TOO wide. Reduce the thickness twice at least
2/ Try to use some wethering, bituminous varnish for instance, to give the ornanent some volume
No problem, keep them coming...

Not sure if i can do it now but will certainly try to fix it...
Not sure how to use varnish you have mentioned; any good how-to articles to share?
 

moreplovac

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Finished up installing two remaining gunstocks...


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Then worked a bit on a boat... decided to make a new rudder since i need to add gudgeons and pintles replacing the rudder that was in the kit.

Traced the kit' rudder, extended a height a bit and cut from a spare piece of boxwood. The piece was a bit ticker than needed so some sanding was required.



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The rudder was done, now fun with gudgeons... Tomorrow... Still had some time, and started to work on boat oars...

Sanding, filing, shaping...


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Tomorrow, more work if time permits...
 

moreplovac

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The first set of oars were not quite ended up nicely so i decided to dump them and start again...

From the same piece of wood the boat was laser cut, i marked and cut the oars..



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Quick scale check on a boat..


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... sanding with sand paper since file will be to dangerous for this type of wood, and snap..... oar snapped under just a tiny pressure.


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Oh well, two more time oars were snapped so for a pair of oars i made 5 in total; 3 broken and 2 good one....


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Oars were dipped into golden oak stain for few seconds and wiped with paper towel.


The work on gudgeons and pintles started. For this such a tiny parts i decided to simulate them from cardboard painted in black and two small pieces of wire..



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The rudder was painted in white and paint is still drying so tomorrow will finish it up..


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Happy modeling.
 

moreplovac

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Location
Vancouver, BC
The work on the ship continued; small touch ups on the boat paint was done.

I made a small rudder with pintles to be placed in boat, the tiller for a rudder was made out of wood and mounted on the rudder. The tiller was painted in white. Was contemplating about color but since i had to put a bit of putty on it i decided to go with a white color.


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The tow rope was coiled fairly neatly and a hook was made. The rope was glued to the boat.


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I followed Chuck' suggestion and placed boat as it is described in his practicum. The plan calls for a boat being positioned towards port side but in this case the water pump will be covered and not quite visible.

The cradles used to store the boat are in different size. They are made out of basswood and stained to match the ship and glued to the ship.


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I am expecting that having a boat in this location, sailors will have a bit of hard time and extra work to open those hatchets where the boat is sitting.

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The lashing of the boat to the deck and a coat of varnish are next steps.


Happy modeling.
 

moreplovac

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Location
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The boat has been secured to the ship. The boat was lashed to the four eyebolts supplied with the kit. The length of them was shortened a bit and the pilot hole was drilled to the deck.

I build two hooks out of 0.4 mm wire and all these were dipped into brass blackening solution for few minutes.


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The hooks got black patina very quickly but i forgot to remove protection from eyebolts so they had to stay a bit longer for desired effect.


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The eyebolts were protected with a varnish and glued to the deck ( using pilot hole).


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The rigging was made out of 0.18 tan rigging line i obtained from Syren Ship Model company during my adventure with Greek Bireme.

One end of a rope was lashed to the eyebolt and other end will have a hook on it.

The seizing for a hook was done in this way. There are different ways to achieve the same results but i decided to do it using zip seizing.

Here is my quick and dirty setup... For rigging work i use an accessory small desk i put on the building desk but for this two lines i did not bother to do to...


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The needle received a tiny layer of waxing and a seizing rope was wrapped around making a cylinder which was secured with a cyano glue. The cylinder was removed easily from the needle thanks to wax. Then, the seizing was cut to required length.


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The cyano glue was applied to the end of rope line so it can get stiff and easy to run thru seizing. The line was run thru seizing, the hook was attached and one more time back thru seizing...


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The hook was attached to the eyebolt and rope was secured by puling the short end up. Touch of cyano glue was applied to the seizing to secure all in place, and extra rope was cut off...


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Happy modeling..
 
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