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Taut of thereads

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Hello... the second model kit I am trying to make is Golden Hind.How tight should the threads be?If the threads are loose, how can I tighten them without unraveling them?

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Seeing belaying pins on a British built ship in the 16th century brings up a question. Does any member have any definitive information on when they came into common use on British ships? The only information I could find is from James Lees where he puts the year at about 1745 for British ships, nearly 200 years after the Golden Hind was built. When they did come into use, the pin racks were secured to the ratlines according to Lees.
TIA
Allan
 
Make the shroud lines taut with a tad of stretch. It doesn't take much, and you can judge when they are tight enough. The trick is to make the tightness as close as you can by feel to the other shrouds. Install the shrouds in pairs, one port and one starboard, so the lines don't bend the mast to one side. As you add more shrouds, the force on the mast increases, so that's why it is important to balance the line tensions, and NOT rig all the shrouds on just one side of the ship.

The lanyards between the deadeyes should not be slack, but taut as well. As you add shrouds, try to keep the upper deadeyes at the same vertical height as the other deadeyes. If the shrouds are taut, there is enough spring each shroud to allow you to adjust tension of the lanyards between the deadeyes to adjust and set the vertical position of the upper deadeye.

The shrouds on your foremast look perfect!
 
Sarı okun sağındaki beş örtüye bakıldığında, doğru gerginlikte görünüyorlar. Metal taban desteklerinize biraz malzeme bağlamanızı öneririm, o gövde bitişini bozmak istemezsiniz.
Dear Sir...Thank you for your advice...
 
Kefen halatlarını biraz esneterek gerginleştirin. Çok fazla bir şey gerektirmez ve yeterince sıkı olduklarında karar verebilirsiniz. İşin püf noktası, sıkılığı diğer kefenlere mümkün olduğunca yakın hale getirmektir. Kefenleri çiftler halinde, biri iskelede biri sancakta olacak şekilde takın, böylece halatlar direği bir tarafa eğmez. Daha fazla kefen ekledikçe, direk üzerindeki kuvvet artar, bu yüzden halat gerginliklerini dengelemek ve tüm kefenleri geminin sadece bir tarafına takmamak önemlidir.

Deadeye'ler arasındaki ipler gevşek olmamalı, aynı zamanda gergin olmalıdır. Örtüler eklerken, üst deadeye'leri diğer deadeye'lerle aynı dikey yükseklikte tutmaya çalışın. Örtüler gerginse, deadeye'ler arasındaki iplerin gerginliğini ayarlamanıza ve üst deadeye'nin dikey konumunu ayarlamanıza ve ayarlamanıza olanak tanıyan her örtüde yeterli yay vardır.

Yelken direğinizdeki örtüler mükemmel görünüyor!
Dear Sir... I am grateful for your information and advice.
 
Thanks Mike...I was sick for a short time but I am fine now and continue to work.
 
Get well soon (geçmiş olsun) Kaya61
The attachments may also be helpfull to you.The ratline-stiks improve the rigidness and homogenity of the shrouds and ratlines.mostly wood sticks covered with rope or yarn.
By my model i made them using a thick yarn (0.8-1.2 mm ) treatead with CA glue in a straight , stretched out position

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The ratline-stiks improve the rigidness and homogenity of the shrouds and ratlines.mostly wood sticks covered with rope or yarn.
Just as an FYI, according to James Lees in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War page 42, these stiffeners were called sheer poles on English ships and were usually 2 inch diameter iron bars lashed on the outboard side of the shrouds just above the deadeyes and came into use in the mid 19th century. It may have been different on ships of other nations.
Allan
 
Supplementary info to Allan's thread: The so called sheer poles (in german language ''wurst '' meaning salami) are also used in 16th and 17th centuries according to the attached Handbuch der Modelbauer page 300, either as a single in back or frontside of the shrouds or as in a sandwich form doubled.

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