It is looking like you have a small problem with the fairing of this bulkhead (marked with red arrow) - you will get a buckle on your planking - Please check this bulkhead
The Glory of Catherine, 66-gun sailing ship, by Mr.Deep [COMPLETED BUILD]
In addition to what Uwe said, the opposite side (left) has few troubled areas (yellow arrows). Looks like the frame was slightly shifted to the right side off-center.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2018
- Messages
- 598
- Points
- 403
I know about these problem areas. Where there is a depression, glued a strip of veneer on the end of the frame. It's just not visible in the photo. Where there is a bulge, I intend to scribble to an even state. The timbers moved only in the upper part, above the waterline. I think I can handle it.
Thats looking great Mr Deep. 
.
.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2018
- Messages
- 598
- Points
- 403
Big Greetings to all.I will share my progress in building a model.Cut through all the gun ports.pasted from another tree frame.The ports of the lower gun deck will be with quarters.Also, the upper ports with lids are also made with quarters.i glued pieces of deck flooring in places of ladders from the main deck.Blackened the interior bulkheads as best he could.Fixed the upper false deck.Built up the bulwark from the inside.After kurenia will still finish plating.Now it's up to the skinning of the entire hull.Then break down stevne and keel.In their place, I will paste typesetting from different pieces.For the time being.
Hello, what timber you have used for the trucks, and the techniques to make them? They are perfectly round...
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2018
- Messages
- 598
- Points
- 403
Things move in small steps.I installed planks of barkhouts,figured reels.I sewed up the distance between them with boards.I pasted on the typesetting stem, continued the keel.Cut through the lower row of gun ports.I made quarters.The deck was made by the old method, using birch slats.I made a nagel out of copper wire .I glued the bulkhead under the quarterdeck.Also put the galley room.Pasted over the bulkhead of the bikged and the deck in front of it.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2018
- Messages
- 598
- Points
- 403
no.The photo was taken with a simple smartphone.The decks aren't all set yet.There is a possibility for snapshots.
Wow
Very nice shot.
I asked because I’m contemplating this option to take close up shots.
Endoscopes are not to expensive and you could find one on EBay at very low prices.
Has anybody in this forum ever use one of these cool gadgets to photograph their models?
Very nice shot.
I asked because I’m contemplating this option to take close up shots.
Endoscopes are not to expensive and you could find one on EBay at very low prices.
Has anybody in this forum ever use one of these cool gadgets to photograph their models?
Hallo @Mr.Deep
due to the fact, that you wrote in the past, that constructive criticism is necessary, in order to get better and improve the modeling, it is hopefully allowed to make some comments, especially on your deck and nailing pattern. And you requested this also from other members to accept your critics.
I think, what we can see from your photos the nailing pattern is not everywhere correct
The treenails and the butt joints of the deck planking has to be everytime on top of the main beams - only in exceptional cases it was done on top of carlings
Take a look at this contemporary drawing of a 74-gun ship (without date), but is showing very well the butt joints of deck planks - and with this the line of the treenails
collections.rmg.co.uk
There are a lot of examples at the NMM, so take a short look on these drawings filtered by this search:
On this drawing, you can see also very good the principle locations of the main beams of a deck - better you can see, that the openings in the decks like hatches, stairs, masts etc. are every time in between the deck beams -> with this you have also a very good definition where under your deck (also of a POB bulkhead model) the beams would have been. (correct locations of beams are marked with the red lines)
One small hint in addition:
When you mark the lines of treenails, maybe you should make two small parallel lines - I have better results with this than with only one line in the center, so the nails are following better the line - you can make the dotts with the scriber more accurate. Already some micrometer are visible in such lines of nails, especially if you are using brass nails
I am personally not a fan of brass nails for treenailing on decks, because they are often very dominant and are looking often out of scale - in real the treenails were definitely wooden nails or covered with wood, so only slightly visible - but this is a pure question of taste
The last thing, what I realized are the windows, especially because you were choosing two with rectangular form
due to the fact, that you wrote in the past, that constructive criticism is necessary, in order to get better and improve the modeling, it is hopefully allowed to make some comments, especially on your deck and nailing pattern. And you requested this also from other members to accept your critics.
I think, what we can see from your photos the nailing pattern is not everywhere correct
The treenails and the butt joints of the deck planking has to be everytime on top of the main beams - only in exceptional cases it was done on top of carlings
Take a look at this contemporary drawing of a 74-gun ship (without date), but is showing very well the butt joints of deck planks - and with this the line of the treenails
Unknown 74 gun ship (no date) | Royal Museums Greenwich
There are a lot of examples at the NMM, so take a short look on these drawings filtered by this search:
On this drawing, you can see also very good the principle locations of the main beams of a deck - better you can see, that the openings in the decks like hatches, stairs, masts etc. are every time in between the deck beams -> with this you have also a very good definition where under your deck (also of a POB bulkhead model) the beams would have been. (correct locations of beams are marked with the red lines)
One small hint in addition:
When you mark the lines of treenails, maybe you should make two small parallel lines - I have better results with this than with only one line in the center, so the nails are following better the line - you can make the dotts with the scriber more accurate. Already some micrometer are visible in such lines of nails, especially if you are using brass nails
I am personally not a fan of brass nails for treenailing on decks, because they are often very dominant and are looking often out of scale - in real the treenails were definitely wooden nails or covered with wood, so only slightly visible - but this is a pure question of taste
The last thing, what I realized are the windows, especially because you were choosing two with rectangular form
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2018
- Messages
- 598
- Points
- 403
Let's continue building the model.I accept all criticism.I know all these mistakes.Well, I haven't reached the level of the Admiralty model yet.It is necessary to take good drawings, monographs, such as from Ancre.And I don't have a good material.There is also no professional tool.Everything is done, as they say "on the knee", all with your hands.Specifically, this model is made by developing a paper model.There are already enough shoals here.I have already been tried to dissuade from this development.Well, we do not have ready-made normal drawings in Russia.Only archived drawings,but this job is not for me.At the moment, for me, the first place is aesthetics,beauty, and compliance with most of the rules when building a sailing ship.Now to the model.He began to sheathe the sides with a second skin.Sheathing immediately and from the bottom of the keel and from the top of the barkhouts.From the velvet to the keel, there were 33 boards.Boards took 4 mm.Narrowing in the stern to 3.7 mm., in nose 3.4 mm.All the same, the boards bend in an arc.You have to press the buttons hard.I made a trial nailing of the sides.About all the work with your hands: I remove the chamfer on the rivers manually with sandpaper.
