THANKS SO MUCH TO EV AND DAVE STEVENS< RECEIEVED THE PACKAGE TODAY SPENT ALL AFTERNOON SORTING IT OUT, PRACTING RESAWING MATERIALS AND NOW WAITING FOR MY DRILL PRESS FROM MY SON-IN-LAW TO START THICKNESS SANDING IT, DAVE WHAT GRIT DO YOU USE TO GET THE FINAL FINISH ON THE MATERIALS. SO MANY THANKS AGAIN Don
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use of grit is a good question and it depends on what your doing. In your case 100 grit will give you a nice finish for building and it won't take much for the final finish.
Now in my case I run 1,000s of liners feet of milled material in a large double drum thickness sander on the first drum I use 36 grit that chews down the wood close to the dimension then the second drum has 80 grit which will bring the material down to a usable building finish within ten thousandths. Looking close you can see sanding marks but once you have planked a deck or hull you have to sand it anyhow so 80 grit will work just fine.
I tried using a 50 grit on the first drum and 100 and 120 grit for the second drum what happens is the finer grit plugs up very quickly and if you take to much off in one pass it will burn the wood, so I had to take light passes which slows the sanding process way down and way longer because I have to run it through the machine more times. What this does is add to the time and cost of milling so milled wood becomes to expensive.
I do not do "finished" milling what I do is "dimensioned" material
so for DIY builders bring the material down with 50 or 60 grit and finish off with 100 grit. if your resawing is accurate enough you can start with 80 grit finish with 100.
Now in my case I run 1,000s of liners feet of milled material in a large double drum thickness sander on the first drum I use 36 grit that chews down the wood close to the dimension then the second drum has 80 grit which will bring the material down to a usable building finish within ten thousandths. Looking close you can see sanding marks but once you have planked a deck or hull you have to sand it anyhow so 80 grit will work just fine.
I tried using a 50 grit on the first drum and 100 and 120 grit for the second drum what happens is the finer grit plugs up very quickly and if you take to much off in one pass it will burn the wood, so I had to take light passes which slows the sanding process way down and way longer because I have to run it through the machine more times. What this does is add to the time and cost of milling so milled wood becomes to expensive.
I do not do "finished" milling what I do is "dimensioned" material
so for DIY builders bring the material down with 50 or 60 grit and finish off with 100 grit. if your resawing is accurate enough you can start with 80 grit finish with 100.
Hey Dave,
do you ship timber to Australia ?
do you ship timber to Australia ?
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yes I do but the cost of shipping is so high you better off ordering either milled wood or resawn to save on weight. no point in ordering rough wood and half of it ends up as saw dust