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Titanic Trumpeter 1/200 by InkMot

B and C Deck Superstructure and B Deck

IMG_9433.jpeg
The B and C Deck superstructure is glued in place. i ended up doing the port side twice because I wasn’t careful with my alignment. Take your time to dry fit B deck (lower right in picture) to ensure proper for and aft placement of the superstructure.

IMG_9862.jpeg
B-Deck is in place, with wood decking and bulkheads for the Cafe Parisian and First Class private promenades, etc. I chose to not replicate the details of the Cafe Parisian or the private promenades because I’m not lighting the model and, well, I get lazy. ;) Seriously though, I’ve set limits on myself with this project so that I can get it done before I’m dead. My plan has been to focus on detailing the obvious and doing the minimum on the hidden areas.

IMG_9863.jpeg
Pay attention to the height of your B-Deck bulkheads. Test fit A-Deck to ensure that your B deck bulkheads aren’t raising A-deck too high. I had to play with this a lot. Also, if you’re installing wooden decking, be careful to clear out space for the bulkheads to mate directly with the plastic of B-Deck, otherwise they’ll sit too high. I chose not to glaze the inside windows of B-deck. I might regret that later, but there are sooo many more windows to glaze on the upper decks.
 
Your painting look great, just one observation, the anchor well in the bow on the Titanic was white.
 
B and C Deck Superstructure and B Deck

View attachment 547081
The B and C Deck superstructure is glued in place. i ended up doing the port side twice because I wasn’t careful with my alignment. Take your time to dry fit B deck (lower right in picture) to ensure proper for and aft placement of the superstructure.

View attachment 547082
B-Deck is in place, with wood decking and bulkheads for the Cafe Parisian and First Class private promenades, etc. I chose to not replicate the details of the Cafe Parisian or the private promenades because I’m not lighting the model and, well, I get lazy. ;) Seriously though, I’ve set limits on myself with this project so that I can get it done before I’m dead. My plan has been to focus on detailing the obvious and doing the minimum on the hidden areas.

View attachment 547083
Pay attention to the height of your B-Deck bulkheads. Test fit A-Deck to ensure that your B deck bulkheads aren’t raising A-deck too high. I had to play with this a lot. Also, if you’re installing wooden decking, be careful to clear out space for the bulkheads to mate directly with the plastic of B-Deck, otherwise they’ll sit too high. I chose not to glaze the inside windows of B-deck. I might regret that later, but there are sooo many more windows to glaze on the upper decks.
Thanks for sharing all your tips. The building up is looking really good and the painted areas so far; amazing. I'm one of those people who, no matter how much masking tape I use, always seems to get bleed in between two colours. :-(
 
Your painting look great, just one observation, the anchor well in the bow on the Titanic was white.
I was basing my colors on reference photos like this. The color ones are from “Titanic Honor and Glory”, the black and white image is from the Olympic…probably later in her career. It appears to me in these photos that the floor of the well was either dark grey or black.IMG_0701.jpegIMG_0699.jpegIMG_0700.jpeg
 
Thanks for sharing all your tips. The building up is looking really good and the painted areas so far; amazing. I'm one of those people who, no matter how much masking tape I use, always seems to get bleed in between two colours. :-(
I like using the Tamiya masking tape. The adhesive on it holds its place without damaging painted surfaces. I just buy rolls of the 3mm size to define my edges and then use regular painter’s tape to fill in the rest. I avoid loading up paint near tape seams, preferring to spray light coats that are just enough to cover. This helps to minimize bleeding and those annoying ridges that form.
 
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